Frommer's Cape Cod Day by Day (Frommer's Day by Day - Pocket) - PDF Free Download (2024)

Fold

Barnes Rd .

Old Cou nty Rd.

i V

Mid

Nor th R d.

West Tisbury

. Rd dle

Ed g art o wn R d.

D

G

A

R

South Rd.

Menemsha Pd.

Ed ga rto wn Gre at P d.

Gr ea tP d.

Chilmark

Aquinnah

AQUINNAH

d.

4 mi

4

Cur rier Rd.

s ta ble Rd .

with foldout map

H N.C.F.

Coatue Pt.

Tuckernuck I.

N.C.F.

Madaket Harbor

Madaket

. Madaket Rd Long Pd. Hummock Pd. N.C.F.

Nantucket Town

R

Eel Pt.

nd

d.

Waquoit Bay

ISBN 978-0-470-08119-8

nd

Isla

Central Av e.

Old

Rd.

Acapeske t

G r e a t P o nd

r. Davis St

SOUND

Davisvi lle Rd.

Sa nd wi ch

Rd .

Giffor d St.

Shore St.

se tt A ve.

5

S O U N D

11

28

Wa shb urn

Rd

Qu ak er

N Falmou th H w

Sippewi sset

6

NANTUCKET

N A N T U C K E T

Muskeget I.

WAQUOIT WAQ

o kP oc mm Hu Miacomet Cisco Pd.

d.

N

a

n

t

u

c

k

e

r Wauwinet N.C.F.

Quidnet Sesachacha Pd.

d. pl is R Po

l pi sR d.

NANTUCKET CONSERVATION FOUNDATION

Siasconset Rd . Nantucket Mem. Arpt.

Surfside

o

Polpis

Mileston e Rd.

ou th

b

t

N A N T U C K E T Ol d S

a

r

N.C.F.

r ve Ne

Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution

WOODS HOLE

Ave. nd Gra

n-S ep)

.

is Qu

3

r. Oyster Pd. Surf D

8

Men auhan tR

cke t (Ju

Po

7

Main St.

. wy uoit H aq

NANTUCKET

Great Pt.

m To

Quissett Har.

1

E Falmout h Hwy.

W

ant u

MARTHA’S VINEYARD

d S u rf s i d e R

. Rd ods Hole Wo

EAST FALMOUTH

n Ba r

Oak Bluf fs - N

Katama Bay

y-Oct) ket (Ma Nantuc

2

FALMOUTH

Parker Rd.

Beebe Woods

10

TEATICKET

Goodwill Park

Ave. Maravista

28

Kiln Rd.

Squibnocket Pt.

Quashnet Woods

Carr iage Sho p Rd.

qu id

h Port -

Jenkins Pd.

Bri ck

lis Hwy. Nathan El

pp a

N

Katama Katama

Harwic

28A

with foldout map

Rd .

F A L M O U T H

WEST FALMOUTH

151

F.A. Crane W.M.A.

d) un -ro ar (ye et ck tu an -N

28

Coonamessett Coona C Coonames Coon oon o ames a essett ett tt Pd. Pd d

9

same scale for both maps nis an Hy

y.

Johns Pd . Pd Pd.

HATCHVILLE HAT HA ATCHVILLE CHV CHVILL HV L

Ch a

W

4 km

Squibnocket Pd. Crooked Croo ro ked k d Pd. P d. Pd Thom as L anders

O

Rd.

R South

T

nd sla kI dic

E

n -S ep )

Edgartown

. Edgartown-W T isbury Rd

Oyster Pd.

S O U N D

C. Poge

EdgartownOak Bluffs Rd.

Martha’s Vineyard Arpt.

WEST TISBURY

N A N T U C K E T

Sengekontacket Pd.

Ocean Heights

MANUEL F. CORRELLUS STATE FOREST

ak

eek R d.

d r a

y e

n

OAK BLUFFS

g Cr

o h us

Na

North Tisbury

-O

O ak Bluf fs - Na nt u cke t ( Ju

Oak Bluffs

Lagoon Heights

Lagoon Pd.

d. te R Sta

n is

East Chop H yan

C H I L M A R K

d. tR

UK £9.99

Haven

Menemsha

Find news, deals, apps, and expert advice, plus connect with other travelers at

CAN $16.99

L. Tashmoo Vineyard

Vineyard Haven Har. d. hR c a Be

c t)

Bay Poge C.

21 Smart Ways to See the Region

Long Pd.

US $13.99

S

TISBURY

BY

Locustfield Rd.

wallet you can also use for tickets and souvenirs

o

Pasque I.

day day

day BY day

• The best of Cape Cod and the Islands in three days • Thematic tours for every interest, schedule, and taste • Tours of the best-loved towns and villages • Hundreds of evocative color photos • Bulleted maps that show you how to get from place to place • Hotels, restaurants, shopping, and nightlife for all budgets • A tear-resistant foldout map—enclosed in a handy plastic

West Chop

n

u

GOSNOLD

-O ay (M ffs u l B

ama Kat

At last, a travel guide that tells you how to see the best of everything—in the smartest, most time-efficient way.

Cape Cod, Nantucket & Martha’s Vinyard

21 Self-guided Tours. 51 Maps. One Great Trip.

Woods Hole Vineyard Haven (year-round)

d

ct) ay-O wn (M arto - Edg outh Falm

Cape Cod, Nantucket & Martha’s Vineyard

n

nd

Herr in

I

B A Y

a sl

Cou nty R d.

B U Z Z A R D S

Tis bu ry

Fold

sR d.

Fold

Marshfield

Provincetown Arpt.

nsto Bo

Brant Rock

MARSHFIELD

Green Harbor

n (Ju wn

3

South Duxbury

Pilgrim L.

6A Provincetown Har. Long Pt.

-O ct )

5 mi

Provincetown

to ce

Millbrook Duxbury Silver L.

Race Pt.

in ov Pr

3A DUXBURY

PROVINCETOWN

5 km

A T L A N T I C Truro

O C E A N

Guret Pt.

TRURO Plymouth - Provincetown (Jun-Sep)

Plymouth Harbor

QUEBEC CAPE COD NATIONAL SEASHORE

6

North Plymouth Plymouth

Wellfleet

White Horse Beach

Billington Sea

Manomet

C A P E

C O D

Wellfleet Harbor Lieutenant I.

B AY

3A M

O

U

T

H

Halfway Pd.

Ellisville

3

White Island Pd.

Sagamore

S

A

N

B O U R N E Forestdale Wings Neck

D

B AY

North Falmouth 28A

Mashpee Ashumet Pd.

West Falmouth

Santuit

Osterville

Cotuit

Hyannis Port

South Dennis West Dennis

28

Popponesset New Seabury

-O

East Harwich

H A R W I C H

Harwich Harwich Port

39

PENNSYLVANIA South Orleans Pl e

28

as a n

Chatham Port

C H A T H A M

West Chatham

N A N T U C K E T S O U N D

N.J.

MD. Washington 480mi / 770km

Boston 70mi / 110km

HYANNIS

Richmond 580mi / 930km

32˚F

0˚F

-20˚F

A T L A N T I C

1 liter = .26 U.S. gallon 1 U.S. gallon = 3.8 liters

10˚C To convert ..................... multiply by

0˚C -10˚C -18˚C

APPROXIMATE DRIVING DISTANCES TO HYANNIS

inches to centimeters................... 2.54 centimeters to inches..................... .39 feet to meters................................ .30 meters to feet...............................3.28 yards to meters.............................. .91 meters to yards.............................1.09 miles to kilometers.......................1.61 kilometers to miles........................ .62 1 ft. = .30m 1 mile = 1.6km 1m = 3.3 ft. 1km = .62 mile

-30˚C

To convert F to C: subtract 32 and multiply by 5/9 (.555) To convert C to F: multiply by 1.8 and add 32

32˚F = 0˚C

NORTH CAROLINA

Monomoy Pt.

CAPE COD

20˚C

-10˚F

Raleigh 750mi / 1210km National Wildlife Refuge

50˚F

10˚F

O C E A N

Monomoy I. Monomoy

70˚F

30˚C

20˚F

New York 260mi / 420km

DEL. VIRGINIA

80˚F

40˚C

40˚F

Baltimore 440mi / 710km

Chatham

100˚F

To convert..................... multiply by U.S. gallons to liters....................... 3.8 Liters to U.S. gallons...................... .26 U.S. gallons to imperial gallons.... .83 Imperial gallons to U.S. gallons...1.20 Imperial gallons to liters..............4.55 Liters to imperial gallons............... .22

60˚F

Philadelphia 350mi / 560km

t Ba y

Dennis Port

Pt. Gammon

d)

Falmouth Edgartown (May-Oct)

West Yarmouth Hyannis

124 6

South Mashpee

Hy an nis

Nobska Pt.

132

un r-ro (yea ket ntuc - Na

Woods Hole Woods Hole Vineyard Haven (year-round)

Centerville

nnis Hya

Waquoit Bay South Cape Beach S.P.

Falmouth

Wequaquet L.

Y A R M O U T H South Barnstable Mun. Arpt. Yarmouth

Long Pd.

Mill Pd.

Yarmouth DENNIS Port Yarmouth 134

Barnstable

Nickerson S.P.

28

Waquoit East Falmouth

Great Pd.

B a r n s t ab l e

B A R N S T A B L E

North Bay

Johns Pd. MASHPEE

F A L M O U T H

Teaticket Sippewissett

151

West Barnstable

H

Marstons Mills

OTIS A.N.G.B.

Coonamessett Pd.

C

Mystic L. Wakeby Pd.

130

Cataumet

Scraggy Neck

I

Lawrence Pd.

Pocasset 28

W

6A

r Ha

CONN. R.I.

ORLEANS Cliff Pd.

South B R E W S T E R Brewster Upper

N.H. Albany 230mi / 370km

Hartford 160mi / 260km

(May-Oct)

Monument Beach

Sandy Neck

6A

East Dennis

- Nantucket

6 CAMP EDWARDS

Dennis .

e

East Sandwich

Harwich Port

al

Sandwich

C

Bourne

NEW YORK

Orleans

Brewster

an C ap

d Co

Syracuse 370mi / 600km

110˚F

90˚F Portland 180mi / 290km

MASS.

East Brewster

Scusset Beach S.P.

W A R E H A M

Wareham Buzzards Bay Onset

VT.

Rock Harbor Great Herring Pd.

25

Toronto 610mi / 980km

Eastham

Cedarville

Burlington 290mi / 470km

Buffalo 520mi / 840km

EASTHAM

ak Blu ffs (M ay -O ct)

White Island Shores

BU ZZA RDS

North Eastham

Vallerville

Long Pd.

Myles Standish State Forest

MAINE

ONTARIO

Jeremy Pt.

Y

Montréal 380mi / 610km

Ottawa 500mi / 800km

Great South Pd.

L

N.B.

Quebec City 470mi / 760km

WELLFLEET

44

P

Fold

To convert..................... multiply by Ounces to grams........................ 28.35 Grams to ounces.......................... .035 Pounds to kilograms.......................45 Kilograms to pounds................... 2.20 1 ounce = 28 grams 1 pound = .4555 kilogram 1 gram = .04 ounce 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds

Fold

Barnes Rd .

Old Cou nty Rd.

i V

Mid

Nor th R d.

West Tisbury

. Rd dle

Ed g art o wn R d.

D

G

A

R

South Rd.

Menemsha Pd.

Ed ga rto wn Gre at P d.

Gr ea tP d.

Chilmark

Aquinnah

AQUINNAH

d.

4 mi

4

Cur rier Rd.

s ta ble Rd .

with foldout map

H N.C.F.

Coatue Pt.

Tuckernuck I.

N.C.F.

Madaket Harbor

Madaket

. Madaket Rd Long Pd. Hummock Pd. N.C.F.

Nantucket Town

R

Eel Pt.

nd

d.

Waquoit Bay

ISBN 978-0-470-08119-8

nd

Isla

Central Av e.

Old

Rd.

Acapeske t

G r e a t P o nd

r. Davis St

SOUND

Davisvi lle Rd.

Sa nd wi ch

Rd .

Giffor d St.

Shore St.

se tt A ve.

5

S O U N D

11

28

Wa shb urn

Rd

Qu ak er

N Falmou th H w

Sippewi sset

6

NANTUCKET

N A N T U C K E T

Muskeget I.

WAQUOIT WAQ

o kP oc mm Hu Miacomet Cisco Pd.

d.

N

a

n

t

u

c

k

e

r Wauwinet N.C.F.

Quidnet Sesachacha Pd.

d. pl is R Po

l pi sR d.

NANTUCKET CONSERVATION FOUNDATION

Siasconset Rd . Nantucket Mem. Arpt.

Surfside

o

Polpis

Mileston e Rd.

ou th

b

t

N A N T U C K E T Ol d S

a

r

N.C.F.

r ve Ne

Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution

WOODS HOLE

Ave. nd Gra

n-S ep)

.

is Qu

3

r. Oyster Pd. Surf D

8

Men auhan tR

cke t (Ju

Po

7

Main St.

. wy uoit H aq

NANTUCKET

Great Pt.

m To

Quissett Har.

1

E Falmout h Hwy.

W

ant u

MARTHA’S VINEYARD

d S u rf s i d e R

. Rd ods Hole Wo

EAST FALMOUTH

n Ba r

Oak Bluf fs - N

Katama Bay

y-Oct) ket (Ma Nantuc

2

FALMOUTH

Parker Rd.

Beebe Woods

10

TEATICKET

Goodwill Park

Ave. Maravista

28

Kiln Rd.

Squibnocket Pt.

Quashnet Woods

Carr iage Sho p Rd.

qu id

h Port -

Jenkins Pd.

Bri ck

lis Hwy. Nathan El

pp a

N

Katama Katama

Harwic

28A

with foldout map

Rd .

F A L M O U T H

WEST FALMOUTH

151

F.A. Crane W.M.A.

d) un -ro ar (ye et ck tu an -N

28

Coonamessett Coona C Coonames Coon oon o ames a essett ett tt Pd. Pd d

9

same scale for both maps nis an Hy

y.

Johns Pd . Pd Pd.

HATCHVILLE HAT HA ATCHVILLE CHV CHVILL HV L

Ch a

W

4 km

Squibnocket Pd. Crooked Croo ro ked k d Pd. P d. Pd Thom as L anders

O

Rd.

R South

T

nd sla kI dic

E

n -S ep )

Edgartown

. Edgartown-W T isbury Rd

Oyster Pd.

S O U N D

C. Poge

EdgartownOak Bluffs Rd.

Martha’s Vineyard Arpt.

WEST TISBURY

N A N T U C K E T

Sengekontacket Pd.

Ocean Heights

MANUEL F. CORRELLUS STATE FOREST

ak

eek R d.

d r a

y e

n

OAK BLUFFS

g Cr

o h us

Na

North Tisbury

-O

O ak Bluf fs - Na nt u cke t ( Ju

Oak Bluffs

Lagoon Heights

Lagoon Pd.

d. te R Sta

n is

East Chop H yan

C H I L M A R K

d. tR

UK £9.99

Haven

Menemsha

Find news, deals, apps, and expert advice, plus connect with other travelers at

CAN $16.99

L. Tashmoo Vineyard

Vineyard Haven Har. d. hR c a Be

c t)

Bay Poge C.

21 Smart Ways to See the Region

Long Pd.

US $13.99

S

TISBURY

BY

Locustfield Rd.

wallet you can also use for tickets and souvenirs

o

Pasque I.

day day

day BY day

• The best of Cape Cod and the Islands in three days • Thematic tours for every interest, schedule, and taste • Tours of the best-loved towns and villages • Hundreds of evocative color photos • Bulleted maps that show you how to get from place to place • Hotels, restaurants, shopping, and nightlife for all budgets • A tear-resistant foldout map—enclosed in a handy plastic

West Chop

n

u

GOSNOLD

-O ay (M ffs u l B

ama Kat

At last, a travel guide that tells you how to see the best of everything—in the smartest, most time-efficient way.

Cape Cod, Nantucket & Martha’s Vinyard

21 Self-guided Tours. 51 Maps. One Great Trip.

Woods Hole Vineyard Haven (year-round)

d

ct) ay-O wn (M arto - Edg outh Falm

Cape Cod, Nantucket & Martha’s Vineyard

n

nd

Herr in

I

B A Y

a sl

Cou nty R d.

B U Z Z A R D S

Tis bu ry

Fold

sR d.

Fold

Marshfield

Provincetown Arpt.

nsto Bo

Brant Rock

MARSHFIELD

Green Harbor

n (Ju wn

3

South Duxbury

Pilgrim L.

6A Provincetown Har. Long Pt.

-O ct )

5 mi

Provincetown

to ce

Millbrook Duxbury Silver L.

Race Pt.

in ov Pr

3A DUXBURY

PROVINCETOWN

5 km

A T L A N T I C Truro

O C E A N

Guret Pt.

TRURO Plymouth - Provincetown (Jun-Sep)

Plymouth Harbor

QUEBEC CAPE COD NATIONAL SEASHORE

6

North Plymouth Plymouth

Wellfleet

White Horse Beach

Billington Sea

Manomet

C A P E

C O D

Wellfleet Harbor Lieutenant I.

B AY

3A M

O

U

T

H

Halfway Pd.

Ellisville

3

White Island Pd.

Sagamore

S

A

N

B O U R N E Forestdale Wings Neck

D

B AY

North Falmouth 28A

Mashpee Ashumet Pd.

West Falmouth

Santuit

Osterville

Cotuit

Hyannis Port

South Dennis West Dennis

28

Popponesset New Seabury

-O

East Harwich

H A R W I C H

Harwich Harwich Port

39

PENNSYLVANIA South Orleans Pl e

28

as a n

Chatham Port

C H A T H A M

West Chatham

N A N T U C K E T S O U N D

N.J.

MD. Washington 480mi / 770km

Boston 70mi / 110km

HYANNIS

Richmond 580mi / 930km

32˚F

0˚F

-20˚F

A T L A N T I C

1 liter = .26 U.S. gallon 1 U.S. gallon = 3.8 liters

10˚C To convert ..................... multiply by

0˚C -10˚C -18˚C

APPROXIMATE DRIVING DISTANCES TO HYANNIS

inches to centimeters................... 2.54 centimeters to inches..................... .39 feet to meters................................ .30 meters to feet...............................3.28 yards to meters.............................. .91 meters to yards.............................1.09 miles to kilometers.......................1.61 kilometers to miles........................ .62 1 ft. = .30m 1 mile = 1.6km 1m = 3.3 ft. 1km = .62 mile

-30˚C

To convert F to C: subtract 32 and multiply by 5/9 (.555) To convert C to F: multiply by 1.8 and add 32

32˚F = 0˚C

NORTH CAROLINA

Monomoy Pt.

CAPE COD

20˚C

-10˚F

Raleigh 750mi / 1210km National Wildlife Refuge

50˚F

10˚F

O C E A N

Monomoy I. Monomoy

70˚F

30˚C

20˚F

New York 260mi / 420km

DEL. VIRGINIA

80˚F

40˚C

40˚F

Baltimore 440mi / 710km

Chatham

100˚F

To convert..................... multiply by U.S. gallons to liters....................... 3.8 Liters to U.S. gallons...................... .26 U.S. gallons to imperial gallons.... .83 Imperial gallons to U.S. gallons...1.20 Imperial gallons to liters..............4.55 Liters to imperial gallons............... .22

60˚F

Philadelphia 350mi / 560km

t Ba y

Dennis Port

Pt. Gammon

d)

Falmouth Edgartown (May-Oct)

West Yarmouth Hyannis

124 6

South Mashpee

Hy an nis

Nobska Pt.

132

un r-ro (yea ket ntuc - Na

Woods Hole Woods Hole Vineyard Haven (year-round)

Centerville

nnis Hya

Waquoit Bay South Cape Beach S.P.

Falmouth

Wequaquet L.

Y A R M O U T H South Barnstable Mun. Arpt. Yarmouth

Long Pd.

Mill Pd.

Yarmouth DENNIS Port Yarmouth 134

Barnstable

Nickerson S.P.

28

Waquoit East Falmouth

Great Pd.

B a r n s t ab l e

B A R N S T A B L E

North Bay

Johns Pd. MASHPEE

F A L M O U T H

Teaticket Sippewissett

151

West Barnstable

H

Marstons Mills

OTIS A.N.G.B.

Coonamessett Pd.

C

Mystic L. Wakeby Pd.

130

Cataumet

Scraggy Neck

I

Lawrence Pd.

Pocasset 28

W

6A

r Ha

CONN. R.I.

ORLEANS Cliff Pd.

South B R E W S T E R Brewster Upper

N.H. Albany 230mi / 370km

Hartford 160mi / 260km

(May-Oct)

Monument Beach

Sandy Neck

6A

East Dennis

- Nantucket

6 CAMP EDWARDS

Dennis .

e

East Sandwich

Harwich Port

al

Sandwich

C

Bourne

NEW YORK

Orleans

Brewster

an C ap

d Co

Syracuse 370mi / 600km

110˚F

90˚F Portland 180mi / 290km

MASS.

East Brewster

Scusset Beach S.P.

W A R E H A M

Wareham Buzzards Bay Onset

VT.

Rock Harbor Great Herring Pd.

25

Toronto 610mi / 980km

Eastham

Cedarville

Burlington 290mi / 470km

Buffalo 520mi / 840km

EASTHAM

ak Blu ffs (M ay -O ct)

White Island Shores

BU ZZA RDS

North Eastham

Vallerville

Long Pd.

Myles Standish State Forest

MAINE

ONTARIO

Jeremy Pt.

Y

Montréal 380mi / 610km

Ottawa 500mi / 800km

Great South Pd.

L

N.B.

Quebec City 470mi / 760km

WELLFLEET

44

P

Fold

To convert..................... multiply by Ounces to grams........................ 28.35 Grams to ounces.......................... .035 Pounds to kilograms.......................45 Kilograms to pounds................... 2.20 1 ounce = 28 grams 1 pound = .4555 kilogram 1 gram = .04 ounce 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds

Cape Cod, Nantucket & Martha’s Vineyard

day day BY

™

1st Edition

by Laura M. Reckford

01_9780470874837-ffirs.indd _9780470874837-ffirs.indd i

12/22/10 2:41 PM

Contents 15 Favorite Moments 1 1 The Best Full-Day Tours 7 The Best of Nantucket in Three Days 8 The Best of Martha’s Vineyard in Three Days 12 The Best of the Cape in Three Days 16

2 The Best Special-Interest Tours 23 Cape & Islands History Tour 24 Antiquing Old King’s Highway 28 Cape & Islands Architecture 30 Cape Cod for Kids 36 Cape Cod on a Budget 40 Cape Cod for Art Lovers 42

3 The Best Towns & Villages 45 Falmouth 46 Hyannis 52 Chatham 56 Provincetown 60 Nantucket 66 Oak Bluffs 70

4 The Best Shopping 73 Shopping Best Bets 74 Cape & Islands Shopping A to Z 78

5 The Great Outdoors 89 Beaches Best Bets 92 Beaches A to Z 93 Cape Cod National Seashore Trails 98 Kayaking Three Bays, Osterville 102 Kayaking Sandy Neck 104 Cape Cod Canal Bike Trail 106 Cape Cod Rail Trail 110 Nantucket Detours 112 Shining Sea Bikeway 114

02_9780470874837-ftoc.indd 2_9780470874837-ftoc.indd ii

12/22/10 2:41 PM

6 The Best Dining 117 Dining Best Bets 120 Dining A to Z 125

7 The Best Nightlife 137 Nightlife Best Bets 138 Nightlife A to Z 141

8 The Best Arts & Entertainment 147 Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 150 Arts & Entertainment A to Z 152

9 The Best Lodging 157 Lodging Best Bets 158 Lodging A to Z 163

10 The Savvy Traveler 173 Before You Go 174 Getting There 177 Getting Around 180 Fast Facts 181 Cape & Islands: A Brief History 182 Cape & Islands Art & Architecture 184 Airline, Hotel & Car-Rental Websites 186

Index

02_9780470874837-ftoc.indd 2_9780470874837-ftoc.indd iii

187

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Published by:

Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2011 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, 201/748-6011, fax 201/748-6008, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, and Day by Day are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 978-0-470-87483-7 (paper); ISBN 978-1-118-00552-1 (ebk); ISBN 9781-118-00553-8 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-118-00554-5 (ebk) Editor: Kathleen Warnock Special thanks to Maureen Clarke, Christine Ryan and Andrew Dolan Production Editor: Erin Amick Photo Editor: Cherie Cincilla and Alden Gewirtz Cartographer: Andrew Dolan Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front (Inset) Photo (Left): © Michael Neelon / Alamy Images Front (Inset) Photo (Middle): © Paul Williams / Bon Appetit / Alamy Images Front (Inset) Photo (Right): © Michael Neelon / Alamy Images Back Cover Photo Credit: © Hiroya Minakuchi / Minden Pictures / Masterfile For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 877/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in China 5

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A Note from the Editorial Director Organizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about. Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop. Cape Cod and the Islands have been welcoming visitors for over a century, and for a narrow strip of land (and two islands), there are a surfeit of activities and styles of vacation to choose from. We can help you make the most of your time, whether you’re headed for the end of land in Provincetown, or hopping the ferry to the Vineyard. The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for one complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and restaurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wildest nightlife—it’s all here. Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors personally visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lot who say what they think and would never include places they wouldn’t recommend to their best friends. They’re also open to suggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, please send your comments our way at [emailprotected], and we’ll pass them on. Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime. Warm regards,

Kelly Regan, Editorial Director Frommer’s Travel Guides

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About the Author Laura M. Reckford is the editor of The Barnstable Enterprise newspaper in the town of Barnstable on Cape Cod. Formerly the managing editor of The Falmouth Enterprise and Cape Cod Life magazine, she has also been on the editorial staffs of Good Housekeeping magazine and Entertainment Weekly. She is also the author of Frommer’s Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard & Nantucket, and a co-author of Frommer’s New England. She co-authored the first edition of France For Dummies.

An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings.

Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use a icon to point out the best bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars, or restaurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked with a coffee-cup-shaped bullet .

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The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

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Travel Resources at Frommers.com Frommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommer’s website, www.frommers.com, has travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bargains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com members through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more.

A Note on Prices In the “Take a Break” and “Best Bets” sections of this book, we have used a system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree at a restaurant. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs: Cost $ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$

Hotels under $100 $100–$200 $200–$300 $300–$400 over $400

Restaurants under $10 $10–$20 $20–$30 $30–$40 over $40

An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Cape Cod, Nantucket & Martha’s Vineyard Day by Day, 1st Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

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15 Favorite Moments

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15 Favorite Moments Beach 1 Nauset Marshfield

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Previous page: Majestic Aquinnah Cliffs provide a dramatic view of the ocean off Martha’s Vineyard.

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15 Favorite Moments

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ummertime is what Cape Cod and Islands are really all about. Sunbathing on the pristine beaches, discovering inlets by kayak, and biking some of New England’s best trails are just some of the pleasures to be found here. But the Cape has a lot more to offer. For those of us who like a little history with our recreating, the Cape has that too, along the fabled Old King’s Highway. The hardest choice for visitors may be deciding which town to stay in. Most come complete with charming Main Streets lined with one-of-a-kind shops. Here are 15 of my favorite things to do in these parts:

1 Beaching it from the bays to the ocean. The options range from Old Silver Beach on Buzzards Bay to Sandy Neck on Cape Cod Bay to Craigville Beach on Nantucket Sound and Race Point on the Atlantic Ocean, all with different temperatures, wave action, and social scenes. If you’re going to pick just one, make it magnificent Nauset Beach in Orleans, an Atlantic Ocean–facing beach that has the most activities and amenities of any beach on the Cape. See p 94.

2 Biking the Shining Sea Bikeway from North Falmouth to Woods Hole. With the expanded 12-mile (19.3km) Shining Sea Bike Trail in Falmouth, bike enthusiasts just got another favorite trail to go along with the 7-mile (11.3km) Cape Cod Canal trail, the 35-mile (56.3km) Rail Trail, and the 9-mile (14.5km)

Provincelands trail through the dunes at the Cape’s tip. See p 115.

3 Strolling Main Street. Main Streets don’t get much more colorful than on Cape Cod, where you’ll find unique shops offering one-of-akind wares all within strolling distance of beaches. My favorites are Falmouth, Hyannis, Chatham, Provincetown, and Nantucket. If I have to pick just one, Chatham wins hands down, because you can walk all the way to the end and gaze out to see the Atlantic Ocean just beyond the barrier beach. See p 57.

4 Attending Fourth of July parades. Which parade to choose? In the town of Barnstable, there are seven colorful parades throughout the town’s villages and you could conceivably hit three in one day! But at the end of the day, there’s only

Fourth of July fireworks burst over Nantucket Sound from Falmouth Heights.

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15 Favorite Moments

Here come the fried clams at Moby Dick’s!

one place to be—Falmouth Heights—to see the biggest fireworks display this side of Boston. See p 50.

5 Digging into a meal of fried clams. A real Cape Codder goes belly-up at the thought of fried clams. We love ’em piled high with fries and onion rings. If you can only indulge once, head to Moby Dick’s in Wellfleet where they have mastered the art of fresh fish fast. For a selection of the best, see p 136.

6 Dining on haute cuisine on Nantucket. If upscale dining is your thing, you’ll want to head to the island of Nantucket, where chefs at two dozen upscale eateries compete for bragging rights for best fine-dining on the island. See p 131.

7 Riding the country’s oldest carousel on Martha’s Vineyard. It’s an old-fashioned thrill, riding the Flying Horses Carousel in Oak Bluffs, reaching out to capture the brass ring. You’ll find riders from 9 months to 90 years taking a spin on the colorful steeds. See p 71.

8 Strolling the Heritage Gardens in spring when the rhododendrons are in bloom. In late May

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and June, there’s no more sensational view than the thousands of rhododendrons in bloom at the Heritage Gardens in Sandwich. The complex—76 acres (30.8 hectares) in all—offers three museum buildings in addition to gently sloping walking trails to view a premiere collection of flowering plants. See p 37.

9 Celebrating spring at the Daffodil Festival on Nantucket. Speaking of flowers, I never tire of the Daffodil Festival in April on Nantucket, the first true harbinger of spring and a chance for islanders to come out of hibernation for the season. See p 175.

0 Watching the carnival parade in P-town in August. Provincetown is a complete hoot. The first time I chanced on the town’s famous carnival parade, I was hooked on this can’t-miss attraction where outrageousness is definitely a competition. See p 176.

! Digging the nightlife crawl in Oak Bluffs. For a fun nightlife scene, I head to Oak Bluffs on Martha’s Vineyard. I begin with a late

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15 Favorite Moments

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Where to Watch the Whales The Dolphin Fleet/Portuguese Princess ★★★ works with the Center for Coastal Studies so that every whale-watch voyage to Stellwagen Bank, 8 miles (12.9km) off Provincetown, is also a research trip for scientists. Naturalists on board give talks as you watch the flipper-slapping, fluke-winking display. The trips leave from Macmillan Wharf in Provincetown. For reservations call y 800/826-9300 or 508/240-3636, or visit www.whalewatch.com. Tickets are $39 for adults, $34 for seniors, $31 for children. Hyannis Whale Watcher Cruises ★★★ makes the trip from Barnstable Harbor in the Mid-Cape. Call y 800/287-0374 or 508/362-6088 for reservations or check out www.whales.net.

dinner at one of the restaurants on the harbor. Next, it’s on to the Ritz Café, a classic dive bar with local bands. And no night crawl would be complete without a trip to Back Door Donuts, the late night bakery that feeds the partying crowd in an alley off Circuit Avenue. See p 71.

@ Going on a whale-watch to Stellwagen Bank. It’s a Cape Cod essential to take a whale-watching boat to the waters off Provincetown to watch the whales cavorting in the waves. Expect flipper slaps and fluke displays. See p 22. Even dogs go daffy for daffodils on Nantucket!

# Kayaking the inlets and estuaries. Of the many beautiful harbors and estuaries you can explore by kayak off the coast of the Cape and Islands, Barnstable Harbor near Sandy Neck is certainly one of the most scenic. Hardy kayakers can make it all the way to the tip of Sandy Neck where a rustic cottage colony and lighthouse stand sentinel. See p 105.

$ Exploring the Old King’s Highway, Route 6A, from Bourne to Orleans. Take a leisurely drive from one end of the Cape to the other on the Old King’s Highway, where you’ll see a veritable history of Early American architecture and all the gift and antiques shops you could wish for. See p 28.

% Taking a gallery stroll in Wellfleet. Gallery stroll night is Saturday, when you can stop in at half-adozen different galleries and check out the art while hobnobbing with the artists themselves. Your stroll will take you from Main Street to Commercial Street near the harbor, where a number of old boat shops have been converted into sophisticated galleries. See p 42.

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The Best Full-Day Tours

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The Best of Nantucket in Three Days 1 Main Street 2 Whaling Museum

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ith just a few days to spend on Nantucket, you’ll stay mainly in the downtown area. But because the island is so compact, you can see a lot of it in just one activity-packed stay. The island is a bikers’ dream; it is crisscrossed with beautifully maintained flat paths. There is also an excellent inexpensive shuttle bus system.

Getting to the Islands For detailed information on how to get to Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard, see p 177.

1 ★★★ Main Street. As soon as you step off the ferry, you’ll be tempted to stroll the cobblestoned streets of Nantucket, which are lined Previous page: You’ll have a whale of a tale to tell when you get back to Provincetown.

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with unique, mostly high-end shops. Those cobblestones were originally ballast for ships that departed from these shores 150 years ago. It’s fun to window shop on Straight Wharf and South Wharf, the two piers that jut into the yacht-filled harbor. South Wharf is a mini-gallery district and its shops include nationally known artists. On Main Street and side streets, especially Centre Street, Easy Street, and Federal Street, you’ll find crafters, jewelry, clothing, and gift shops.

@ 1–2 hr.

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Nantucket in Three Days The Whaling Museum traces the rise and fall of the industry that made Nantucket.

2 ★★★ Whaling Museum. One of the top attractions in the region, this is a museum you won’t want to miss. It’s housed in an 1846 former spermaceti-candle factory (candles made from a fluid extracted from sperm whales), and candle-making equipment is here for viewing. There are world-class collections of crafts made by sailors, like Nantucket baskets and elaborate scrimshaw, as well as exotic items brought back to Nantucket by whalers travelling all over the world, including intricate sailor’s valentines. A highlight is the 43-foot Stroll the cobblestoned streets of Nantucket.

(13.1-meter) sperm whale skeleton (the unlucky beast washed ashore on Nantucket on New Year’s Day, 1998) that hangs over an exhibition area where there are frequent films and lectures about whaling. The story of Nantucket’s history is all here in viewer-friendly displays, with an extensive archive of historic photos, including fun shots from the early days of tourism. Don’t forget a climb to the rooftop observation deck. @ 2 hr. 13 Broad St. (3 blocks west of Main St.) y 508/228-1894. www.nha.org. Admission $17 adults, $16 seniors, $8 children. (An extra $3 gets you into all the historical association sites, including the Oldest House, the Hadwen House, the Old Mill & the Quaker Meeting House.) Open mid-May to mid-Oct daily 10am–5pm.

3 ★ Nantucket Pharmacy. It’s not easy to find a bargain on Nantucket, but this old-fashioned drugstore soda fountain qualifies as one. This place serves up the best lunch in town, with good food at great prices. Locals love the sandwiches and the ice-cream sodas. There are extra-good smoothies too.

@

⁄2 hr. 45 Main St., Nantucket.

1

y 508/228-0180. $.

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For All the Nantucket Answers For all its charm, Nantucket can be tough to negotiate because of its popularity. It can be difficult to find lodging in high season or even the shoulder seasons. Finding a place that allows younger children or pets can also be tough. That’s where Nantucket Visitor Service and Information Bureau comes in. They have up-tothe-minute vacancy information on nearly every accommodation on the island, and the staff can suggest places to fit your needs. They also have lists of inn and restaurant specials, and other valuable information. Best of all, this is the place to get the coveted July 4 T-shirts that help support the fireworks display every year. Visit them at 25 Federal St., Nantucket. y 508/228-0925.

From Main St., take Orange St. to the rotary & follow signs & the Milestone Rd. bike path 7.7 miles (12km) to ’Sconset.

4 ★★★ ’Sconset. Explore the clamshell-covered lanes and pictureperfect rose-covered cottages of Siasconset, a village on the east side of the island, popularly known as ’Sconset. Besides admiring the scenery, there is an awe-inspiring Atlantic Ocean beach here. The big waves and riptide mean swimming is at your own risk. In the village are several restaurants—Claudette’s has great sandwiches—and a gift

shop. You can take a taxi or a shuttle bus to ’Sconset or better yet, bike there. It’s about 7 miles (11.3km) from the center of town with a few inclines (too small to call them hills). @ 3 hr. From Main St., take North Water St. .9 miles (1.5km) & follow signs to Jetties Beach.

5 ★★★ Jetties Beach. Settle in at this popular beach for hours of sandy fun. There’s always a lot going on at this large family-friendly beach. It is about a 20-minute walk from town, but a shuttle bus service

In spring you’ll see the rose-covered cottages in the village of ’Sconset.

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Nantucket in Three Days

runs frequently in summer. It has more amenities than any other Nantucket beach, including changing rooms, a playground with swings and a slide, public tennis courts, and a boardwalk to the beach. You can rent equipment for windsurfing, sailing, and kayaking, and lessons are also available. There are also beach access wheelchairs to borrow. On-site is a breakfast, lunch, and dinner restaurant called The Jetties.

@ 3 hr.

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Snacks on Broad Street. For quick, inexpensive munchies, don’t miss this lineup of fast-food shacks close to Steamship Wharf, where the Steamship Authority ferries dock. My favorite is Tacos, Tacos. More refined diners might want to try Lola Burger, a to-go version of the fine-dining establishment LoLa 41, down the road. Who said you can’t eat cheap on Nantucket?

@ 1⁄2 hr. Broad St. (3 blocks west of Main St.). $. 7 ★★ Best View in Town. Climb up the 94 steps of the Old North Tower of the First Congregational Church for the perfect

South Wharf in Nantucket offers many small art galleries for you to explore.

panorama. There is a small museum of historic photos partway up.

@ ½ hr. 62 Centre St. y 508/2280950. Open mid-June to mid-Oct Mon–Sat 10am–4pm. Donation of $5 for adults & $3 for children is requested.

A Walking Tour Through History The Nantucket Historical Association offers guided walking tours of its sites mid-May to mid-October. These tours are worth taking to get a better understanding of the island’s lives and times. And you’ll learn about the island’s people, places, and history, while treading the same streets where they walked. The tours depart from the Whaling Museum lobby and take place rain or shine. @ 80 min. 13 Broad St. y 508/228-1894. July to early Sept Mon–Sat 4:30pm; late May to late June and mid-Sept to mid-Oct Mon–Sat at 11:15am and 2:15pm, Sun 2:15pm. Tickets are $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 children.

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f you really want to see what the Vineyard has to offer, it takes some good walking shoes or a sturdy bike. Bringing cars to the island is discouraged. Fortunately, there is an inexpensive shuttle bus system that travels to all six Vineyard towns. You can get a good taste of the island, though, by just exploring the towns of Oak Bluffs and Edgartown. Follow Circuit Avenue from Veira Park about .5 mile (.75km) north to Bayliss Ave., then turn left at Trinity Park.

1 ★★★ Oak Bluffs Cottage Campground. Stroll up lively Circuit Avenue, then cut through an arched walkway on the north side of the street to visit the famous “Campground” of cottages, more than 300 whimsical multi-colored, elaborately trimmed houses set in a

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34-acre (13.8-hectare) grove. The neighborhood of tightly packed cottages is a former Methodist Revival meeting place. In the center of the circle is the Trinity Park Tabernacle, a magnificent open-sided chapel built in 1879, which is the largest wrought-iron structure in America. There is seating for thousands on the tabernacle’s long wooden benches, and the open-air structure is the location for community sings, movies, concerts, and performances

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held all summer long, in addition to Sunday services. Once the location for 19th-century revival meetings, the Campground cottages took the place of tents that worshipers stayed in during religious gatherings. Walking tours of the Campground are Tuesdays and Thursdays at 10am. The Grand Illumination, when the Campground is decorated with Japanese lanterns, takes place on a Wednesday in mid-August. The Cottage Museum is decorated with period furnishings and displays vintage photos. @ 1 hr. Cottage Museum, 1 Trinity Park Circle, Oak Bluffs. y 508/693-7784. www. mvcma.org. The museum is open Mon–Sat 10am–4pm & Sun 1–4pm during the summer season. Admission $2 adults, 50¢ children 3–12.

Reach for the brass ring at the Flying Horses Carousel.

2 ★★★ Flying Horses

glass eyes and manes of real horsehair encircle America’s oldest operating platform carousel. Built in 1876, the carousel is also a National Historic Landmark. Grab the brass ring for a free ride. @ 10 min. Oak

Carousel. You don’t have to be a little kid to enjoy riding the Flying Horses Carousel in Oak Bluffs. The colorful historic steeds with their

Bluffs Ave. (at the top of Circuit Ave.). y 508/693-9481. Open Easter Sunday to Columbus Day (mid-Oct). Admission $1.50.

From Trinity Park, continue north on Circuit Avenue a short walk to Lake Ave. Turn right at Lake Ave.

The magnificent Trinity Park Tabernacle was built in 1879.

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Seeing the Island by Bus For a 21⁄2-hour bus tour of the island, call Island Transport (y 508/627-8687; www.mvtour.com), or hop on one of the Island Transport buses that are stationed at the ferry terminals in Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs in the summer. The tour takes you to all six of the Vineyard’s towns: Edgartown, Oak Bluffs, Vineyard Haven, West Tisbury, Chilmark, and Aquinnah. The tour stops for a half-hour at the famous red clay cliffs of Aquinnah. Tours are $29 adults, $10 children.

★ Mad Martha’s Ice Cream. No trip to Martha’s Vineyard would be complete without paying homage to the deities of ice cream at the famous Mad Martha’s. Though a scoop will run you a cool five-spot, this is still among the best locally made ice cream in the region. @ 15 min. 117 Circuit Ave.

3

(in the center of town), Oak Bluffs. y 508/693-9151. $.

From Circuit Ave., head south on Seaview Ave. 3.9 miles (6.5km). Continue onto Edgartown Oak Bluffs Road for 1 mile (1.5km). Continue onto Upper Main St., then Main St. for .7 mile (.9km).

shopping, then take a left onto North Water Street and try to count all the widow’s walks on the sea captains houses. @ 1 hr. Walk northeast on N. Water St. about .2 miles (.3km) toward Cottage St. then turn left.

5 ★★ Edgartown Lighthouse. For an easy romantic walk or a mini family adventure, walk down North Water Street (off Main St.) and out to the Edgartown Lighthouse to Lighthouse Beach. It’s a quick stroll out to the lighthouse with harbor views of sailboats and ferries to enjoy. Check out the beach club Stately captains’ houses line the streets of Edgartown.

4 ★★★ Main Street, Edgartown. The best shopping on the island can be found in Edgartown, a white-picket-fence kind of place. You might begin at the Edgartown Visitor Center on Church Street. From there, you can check out the magnificent 1843 Old Whaling Church, as well as the Dr. Daniel Fisher House (at 99 Main St.), which is an opulent 1840 Federalstyle beauty, and the Vincent House (off Main St. btw. Planting Field Way and Church St.), a 1672 Cape that is the oldest house on the island. Walk down Main Street toward the harbor for great window

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Martha’s Vineyard in Three Days The Menemsha sculpture of a swordfisherman is one of the iconic images of Martha’s Vineyard.

across the harbor on Chappaquiddick Island. @ 1⁄2 hr. Return to N. Water St., then head southwest about 400 ft. (122m), then take a left onto Dagget St. Go another 350 ft. (107m) and Daggett St. turns right and becomes Dock St. Catch the ferry to Chappaquiddick Island at Dock St.

6 ★★★ Mytoi Gardens. If you want to feel like a Vineyard insider, take the ferry to Chappaquiddick Island, and walk, bike, or drive the 2.5 miles (4km) to Mytoi, a 14-acre (5.7-hectare) secluded Japanese garden. The garden, with its numerous winding footpaths, is designed as a place of serenity and contemplation. The gardens, from a vibrant pink camellia dell to a somber stone garden, are a celebration of textures and colors. There’s a small pond traversed by a foot bridge. Trails from the garden connect to Poucha Pond and a salt marsh. There are picnic tables and portable toilets. Even in the height of summer, there are no crowds here. (They are lining up for a scoop at Mad Martha’s.) @ 1⁄2 hr. to visit the

Island. y 508/627-7689. Free admission. Open year-round sunrise to sunset. From the EdgartownChappaquiddick (On-Time) ferry, take Chappaquiddick Rd. 2.5 miles (4km). At sharp right curve, continue straight onto Dike Rd. (dirt road) & follow for .3 mile (.5km). to entrance & parking area on left. The On-Time Ferry (y 508/627-9437; www. chappyferry.net) runs the 5-min. trip from Memorial Wharf in Edgartown to Chappaquiddick Island from June to mid-Oct daily every 10 min. from 7am to midnight. A round-trip is $3 per person, $10 per car plus driver; or $6 per bike plus rider.

★ Black Dog Tavern. Before you hop the ferry home, stop at the Black Dog Bakery for a cup of coffee. If you want something more substantial—like a cup of chowder—walk behind the bakery to the Tavern, which sits on the edge of the harbor. Yes, it is touristy, but the food is good. (You can skip the T-shirt.) @ 45 min. Beach St. exit,

7

Vineyard Haven. y 508/683-9223. www.theblackdog.com. $–$$.

garden. Dike Rd., Chappaquiddick

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The Best of the Cape VillageBrant Green 1 Falmouth’s Marshfield Rock MARSHFIELD

2 Main Street, Falmouth Green Harbor

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5 mi 5 km

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I

f you’re lucky, you’ll have a week to spend finding out what Cape Cod has to offer. Cape Cod stretches 75 miles (120km) and its 15 towns are all worth visiting. But if you are working only with a few days, it’s best to stick with the high points, with visits to the towns of Falmouth, Barnstable, and Provincetown. You’ll bike down the Shining Sea Bikeway in Falmouth and explore the science community of Woods Hole. You’ll motor down the Old King’s Highway and visit the Cape’s unofficial “capital” of Hyannis, where you can pay homage to JFK’s Camelot legacy. Finally, you’ll take in art, culture, and the liveliest street scene this side of Manhattan at the Cape’s tip in Provincetown. START: Falmouth. Trip length: 75 miles (120km).

Travel Tip For recommended restaurants and hotels in towns and villages in these tours, see chapter 6 (Best Dining), p 117 and chapter 9 (Best Lodging), p 157.

1 ★★★ Falmouth’s Village Green. A slice of Americana still exists at Falmouth’s charming Village Green, which is flanked by two historic churches and surrounded by a dozen historic buildings, including the ★ Falmouth Museums on The Green. The museum tells the story of the town through exhibits in three buildings, the 1790 Julia Wood House, the mid-18th-century Conant House, and the Dudley Hallett Barn. Founded in 1660 by Quakers from Sandwich, Falmouth proved to be remarkably arable territory. By the 19th century, it reigned as the strawberry capital of the world. Today, with over 33,000 year-round residents, it’s the second-largest town on the Cape, after Barnstable. The town boasts more than a century of catering to summertime guests. It was the first “fashionable” Cape resort, served by trains from Boston starting in the 1870s. The area around the historic Village Green, which was used for military exercises in the pre-Revolutionary days, has several B&Bs and

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inns. @ 11⁄2 hr. Over the Bourne Bridge south on Rte. 28 to Falmouth. After the traffic light, take 5th left to the Village Green.

2 ★★ Main Street, Falmouth. From the Village Green, you’ll want to spend some time exploring Main Street, where you’ll find stores selling books, clothes, art, gifts, and a dozen restaurants and ice-cream shops. Wander several blocks down to Peg Noonan Park on the left, where in the summer you’ll find free live music on Friday evenings and a farmers’ market on Thursdays. Don’t miss the nearby shops in the Queens Buyway. Here you can rent a bike, buy a cup of coffee, and buy a T-shirt and other souvenirs. Enjoy period rooms at the Falmouth Museums on the Green.

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There’s so much to do on Cape Cod, you might actually forget to go to the beach, but that would be a shame. In Falmouth, high points for beaching it are Surf Drive Beach, good for young splashers, conveniently located a few blocks from Main Street; Falmouth Heights Beach, in the historic neighborhood that housed the Cape’s first summer resort, and Old Silver Beach in North Falmouth, one of the Cape’s most popular beaches. In the town of Barnstable, there’s Sandy Neck, a 7-mile (11.3km) spit of sand accessible off Route 6A; and on the north side in the village of Centerville, Craigville Beach, which could be called Muscle Beach for the young crowd it attracts. In the Outer Cape, the home of the magnificent Cape Cod National Seashore (essentially one big beach), there’s Nauset Beach in Orleans; and in Provincetown, Herring Cove Beach on Cape Cod Bay and Race Point Beach on the Atlantic Ocean (watch for whales!).

3 ★★ Coffee Obsession. Some of the best coffee in town can be found at this cafe, a favorite of locals. It has a real “college town” vibe, especially on Open Mic Nights, which take place on occasional evenings year-round. @ 1⁄2 hr. 110 Palmer Ave., Falmouth (in the Queens Buyway). y 508/540-2233. $.

4 ★★★ Highfield Hall. From the Village Green, walk or bike (or drive) up the hill to Highfield Hall, an 1878 mansion that was lovingly restored over 10 years by scores of local volunteers. There are miles of walking trails in the 382 acres (154.6 hectares) of Beebe Woods around the mansion. The hall serves as a cultural meeting place that hosts art exhibits and classical music concerts. Highfield Hall is open from 10am to 4pm Monday through Friday and 10am to 1pm on Sundays. The building has extended hours on Thursdays in July and August, 10am to 8pm. Admission is free. The building is fully handicap-accessible. See

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Cape Cod in Three Days

Save Time for Beaching It

p 21. @ 1⁄2 hr. Top of Highfield Dr., the continuation of Depot Ave. (off Palmer Ave./Rte. 28), Falmouth.

5 ★★★ Shining Sea Bikeway. Rent a bike at Corner Cycle in the Queens Buyway and explore part (or all) of the 12-mile (19.3km) Shining Sea Bikeway, named in honor of Falmouth native Katharine Lee Bates, who wrote the lyrics to America the Beautiful. The Falmouth Chamber of Commerce has maps for the entire path, complete with historical notes Ride along the coast on the Shining Sea Bikeway.

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Nobska Light presides over the coast by Woods Hole.

and points of interest. From the Village Green, it’s a quick ride down Locust Street to the bike path for a 3-mile (4.8km) ride that skirts the coastline (on a warm day, you can stop to take a dip in Buzzards Bay!) down to ★★★ Woods Hole, a bohemian fishing village that’s also one of the top scientific communities in the world. You can visit the Marine Biological Laboratory Visitors Center (p 184) and the ★ Woods Hole Oceanographical Institution Exhibit Center (p 184), where you can sit in a replica of the submersible that was used to discover the wreck of the Titanic. You’ll also want to visit the ★ Woods Hole Science Aquarium (p 49), which has a state-of-the-art seal tank out front. @ 2 hr. Falmouth Chamber of Commerce, 20 Academy Lane, Falmouth. y 508/548-8500. www.falmouthchamber.com. For more on Falmouth, see p 46 in chapter 3.

7 ★★★ Old King’s Highway. The beauty of exploring the Old King’s Highway is you can make as many or as few stops as you like. You’ll see plenty of interesting shops, from glassblower’s workshops, pottery studios, antiquarian bookstalls, antiques stores, and marvelous gift shops. People love to drive this long winding road, a former stagecoach route, just to look at the homes, which represent a veritable history of Early American home construction, from classic Capes to colonial, federal and Victorian styles of architecture. @ 21⁄2 hr. From Falmouth, take Rte. 28 back to the traffic rotary at the Bourne Bridge. Instead of going over the bridge, take the first right off Stop into one of the many antiques stores along the Old King’s Highway.

Locals know to get to ★★ Pie in the Sky Dessert Café and Bake Shop by 9am for sticky buns, the best anywhere. Those bound for Martha’s Vineyard stop at this small bakery near the ferry terminal for treats before hopping on the boat.

6

@

1

⁄2 hr.10 Water St., Woods Hole

y 508/540-5475. $.

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The story of the mansion starts in 1872 with the arrival of the trains from New York and Boston bringing summer visitors. James Madison Beebe of Boston and his wife, Esther E. Beebe, bought more than 700 acres (283.3 hectares) of land on the hill above the railroad station for their estate. The last of the Beebe children died in 1932. After that, Highfield Hall passed through a succession of owners, and in 1962, the estate was purchased for a housing development. The entire estate was rescued in 1972 by Josephine and Josiah K. Lilly III, who gave the nearly 400 acres (161.9 hectares) of Beebe Woods to the town for permanent conservation. The buildings were donated to a local arts organization. But from the mid1970s on, Highfield Hall entered 2 decades of neglect and vandalism. In 1994, the mansion was scheduled to be demolished. An advocacy group, Friends of Highfield was formed to save the building. The restoration effort was made possible through donations totaling more than $8 million (y 508/495-1878; www.high fieldhall.org).

Cape Cod in Three Days

Saving Highfield Hall

the rotary and drive alongside the canal, under the Sagamore Bridge, to the town of Sandwich. The road turns into Rte. 6A, also known as the Old King’s Highway. Follow for 15 miles (24km) to Barnstable Village.

8

Barnstable Restaurant & Tavern. Have a beverage and a snack on the front patio of this establishment, a former stagecoach stop, and you’ll have a view of the Superior Courthouse across the street, a magnificent slate-gray building with stately columns. This is old New England at its most charming. @ 1⁄2 hr. 3176 Main St./ Rte. 6A, Barnstable Village. y 508/362-2355. www.barnstable restaurant.com. $$.

To get to Hyannis, you can take Rte. 6 to exit 6 (Rte. 132) or follow the Old King’s Highway for about 15 miles (24km) from the Sagamore Bridge to Rte. 132. Take Rte. 132

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You’ll find some of the Cape’s oldest houses along Route 6A.

through the airport rotary & down Barnstable Rd. to Main St.

9 ★★★ Hyannis. To bask in the Kennedys’ Cape Cod experience, visit the John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum. There is a documentary on Kennedy narrated by Walter Cronkite and several rooms’ worth of photos of the Kennedys on Cape

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Art’s on display (and for sale) in the shanties in Hyannis.

Cod. The Kennedy Memorial, just above Veterans Beach on Ocean Avenue, is a moving tribute. Admission is free. Main Street, Hyannis, also offers a vibrant arts district. You can walk through the Hyannis Village Green to the seven art shanties in Bismore Park on the harbor. You may catch a free musical performance in summer or even Shakespeare in the park. Other interesting attractions within walking distance of Main Street are the Cape Maritime Museum (p 53) on South Street, Guyer Barn on South Street, and Zion Union Museum (p 54) on North Street. @ 1⁄2 day. JFK Hyannis Museum, 397 Main St., Hyannis, y 508/790-3077. www. jfkhyannismuseum.org. Admission $5 adults, $2.50 children 10–16, $3 seniors. Hours are mid-Apr through Oct, Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun & holidays noon–5pm. Last admission is at 3:30pm.

From Hyannis, take Rte. 6/MidCape Hwy east 18.6 miles (30km), at the traffic circle, take the second exit and stay on Rte. 6 East/ Mid-Cape Highway for another 18.7 miles (30km). Turn left at Rte. 6A West/Shore Rd. Continue 6.2 miles (10km) to Provincetown.

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0 ★★★ Provincetown. This boisterous, fascinating place is a year-round destination. But during the summer season, Provincetown’s streets are a celebration of individual freedom and the right to be as outrageous as imagination allows. The dozens of shops along Commercial Street are all open well into the evening, and some people come here just for the fabulous shopping. Others come for the art galleries and still others for the dining. From Macmillan Pier in the center of town, you can take a sail on the Bay Lady II or a whale-watch to Stell-wagen Bank. Some of the best beaches on the Cape are just down the road at Herring Cove and Race Point. @ 1 day. Provincetown Chamber of Commerce, 307 Commercial St. at Lopes Square. y 508/ 487-3424. www.ptownchamber.com.

!

Patio. P-town has a number of sidewalk cafes perfect for peoplewatching. Plop yourself down at a sidewalk table at Patio and watch the parade of colorful locals and visitors. @ 1 hr. 328 Commercial St.,

y 508/487-4003. $$.

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The Best SpecialInterest Tours

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Cape & Islands History Tour

Previous page: The JFK Museum is one of the top attractions on the Cape.

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his is where the Pilgrims first landed (apologies to Plymouth) and where Europeans and Native Americans first made contact. Seventeenth- and eighteenth-century homes can still be found around the peninsula. In the late 19th century, tourism began on these shores, but it wasn’t until a politician named John F. Kennedy made it big that things got really crazy around here. The John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum is still one of the most popular tourist attractions on Cape Cod. START: Bournedale Herring Run, Buzzard’s

Bay (1 mile/1.6km west of the Sagamore Bridge). Trip length: 1-2 days.

Travel Tip For recommended restaurants and hotels in towns and villages in these tours, see chapter 6 (Best Dining), p 117, and chapter 9 (Best Lodging), p 157.

1 ★★ Cape Cod Canal. The idea of New York financial wizard Augustus Perry Belmont, the canal was completed in 1914 at a cost of $16 million. It was widened by the Army Corps of Engineers in 1926. With a current that reverses with the tides every 6 hours, the canal is a boon for fishermen. About 30,000 boats a year use the shortcut to avoid the long trip around the treacherous shoals off the coast of the Outer Cape. There are several viewing platforms along the canal road on the Cape side. From the mainland side, you can stop at the

Bournedale Herring Run, about 1 mile (1.6km) west of the Sagamore Bridge in Buzzard’s Bay, to get a look. Call the Army Corps (y 508/ 759-5991), for more information.

@

Cape & Islands History Tour

T

⁄2 hr.

1

From Buzzard’s Bay, follow signs to Bourne Bridge. Travel over the Bourne Bridge onto Cape Cod & take Trowbridge Rd., the first right at foot of bridge. Take a right onto Veteran’s Way just after Police Station, left onto Sandwich Rd., right onto Perry Ave. & left onto Aptucxet Rd. You can park here and walk to the next two stops.

2 ★ Railroad Bridge. This vertical lift bridge represented state-ofthe-art technology when it was built over the Cape Cod Canal in 1935. Between 5 and 6pm is the best chance to catch the bridge lowering for the garbage train headed

The tree-lined Old King’s Highway reveals historic architecture.

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The Best Special-Interest Tours

3 ★ Aptucxet Trading Post Museum. Long before the Cape Cod Canal was built, Native Americans were portaging goods across streams near the northern end of Buzzards Bay. The Pilgrims also recognized the area as a good trading spot with Dutch to the south, so they built a trading post here in 1627. The museum is a replica built on the spot of the old foundation. @ 1⁄2 hr. 24 Aptucxet Rd., Bourne Village. y 508/ 759-9487. www.bournehistorical society.org/aptucxettradingpost.html. Admission $5 adults, $4 seniors, $2 children. Open Memorial Day to Columbus Day Tues–Sat 11am–3pm.

From the Trading Post, return to Rte. 28A and continue south about 2 miles to Cataumet.

Native American chief Iyannough is commemorated in Hyannis.

off-Cape. For the best view, try the south end of the Cape Cod Canal bike path, accessed from Aptucxet Road off Perry Avenue. @ 15 min.

Take A Break

4 ★ Daily Brew Coffee Bar & Café. Awesome cappuccinos and baked goods here. Sandwiches too.

@ 30 min. 1370 Rte. 28A, Cataumet. y 508/564-4755. $.

History on the Islands Nantucket, with its strict building regulations on preservation, is all about history. Check out the ★★★ Whaling Museum, where vivid displays transport you back to the island’s 19th-century glory days as one of the most prosperous ports on the east coast. @ 1 hr. 13 Broad St., Nantucket. y 508/228-1894. Admission $15 adults, $9 children. There may be no better way to understand the history of Martha’s Vineyard than by reading the blurbs from an oral history project on display at the ★ Martha’s Vineyard Museum in Edgartown. Other highlights of the museum’s collection include the pre-Colonial artifacts in the Captain Francis Pease House, and the enormous fresnel lens from the Gay Head Lighthouse that sits outside on the lawn. @ 45 min. 59 School St. (corner of Cooke St.), Edgartown. y 508/627-4441. www. marthasvineyardhistory.org. Admission $7 adults, $4 children. Open mid-June to mid-Oct Mon–Sat 10am–5pm.

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5 ★★★ Old King’s Highway. Imagine you are Henry David Thoreau, traveling in a stagecoach on this route along the north spine of the Cape, now known as Rte. 6A. The narrow road, the curves, the old houses, even the huge shade trees that provide a dense canopy over the route are much the same as he would have seen in the 1860s.

@ 2-3 hrs. (including stops for shopping along the route). Continue east Route 6A to exit 6, Rte. 132 S. Take exit toward Hyannis/W. Yarmouth. Merge onto Iyannough Rd./MA-132 E. Enter next roundabout and take 2nd exit onto Barnstable Rd. Turn right onto Main St.

6 ★ Statue of Iyannough. The Cape’s Native American heritage is in evidence in the names of streets around the peninsula. The town of Mashpee is still the official home of the Wampanoag, a federally recognized tribe. Sachem Iyannough was a leader of the tribe who befriended the Pilgrims, as legend has it. @ 5 min. On the Hyannis Village Green, Main St., Hyannis.

Continue on foot or by car west on Main St. to the JFK Museum.

7 ★★ John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum. It’s been almost 50 years since JFK was in the White House and his vacation home in Hyannis served as the summer White House. But this small museum of photos is still one of the most visited sites on Cape Cod. You can also visit the Kennedy Memorial, located above Veteran’s Beach along Ocean Avenue. It is a 5-minute drive from the museum. Don’t bother trying to find the Kennedy compound; you

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can’t see much from the road. Instead, take a tour on a Hy-Line Cruise boat to see the famous houses from the water. Call y 508/ 790-0696 for departure times and prices. @ 45 min. 397 Main St., Hyannis. y 508/790-3077. www. jfkhyannismuseum.org. Admission $5 adults, $2.50 children.

Continue west down Main St. to your next stop.

Take A Break

Cape & Islands History Tour

Drive northeast on Massachusetts 28A N/Sandwich Rd. to Bourne and the start of MA-28 N/Massachusetts 6A W., Old King’s Highway.

8 ★ Caffé e Dolci. A favorite of the Kennedys—and even Kennedy in-law California Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger—this cafe, run by an Italian right from the old country, has the best espresso in town, as well as great paninis and pastas.

@ 30 min. 430 Main St., Hyannis. y 508/790-6900. $–$$. After your break, take Yarmouth Rd. north out of Hyannis to Rte. 6E for 48.5 miles (78km) to Provincetown.

9 ★ Pilgrim Monument & Provincetown Museum. Climb up the 116 steps of the monument to get the lay of the land, especially the intriguing curve of the Outer Cape. Then tour one of the more interesting history museums on the Cape, with artifacts and photos from Provincetown’s past as a Portuguese fishing village and an arts nexus. You’ll see polar bears brought back from the Arctic by Provincetown native Donald Macmillan and programs from the Provincetown Players, the troupe that launched Nobel Prize–winning playwright, Eugene O’Neill. @ 1 hr. High Pole Hill Rd., Provincetown. y 508/487-1310. Admission $7 adults, $5 seniors & students, $3.50 children. Open July to mid-Sept daily 9am–7pm.

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Antiquing Old King’s Highway 1 Brewster 7 8 East Dennis

Sandwich East Sandwich

2

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Lawrence Pd.

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B R E W S T E R Upper Long Pd. Mill Pd. 124 DENNIS

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6 HARWICH

South Harwich Dennis Harwich West Port Dennis Dennis Port

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1 Sandwich Antiques Center

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T

he Old King’s Highway, which winds through the towns of Sandwich, Barnstable, Yarmouth, Dennis, and Brewster, is the place to go for antiques store hopping. I’ve listed some larger multidealer shops and some small shops here. You’ll find many more as you explore the route. Most antiques stores are open daily in summer 10am to 5pm or by chance or appointment. START: Sandwich

Antiques Center, Route 6A near the Sagamore Bridge. Trip length: 1 day.

1 ★ Sandwich Antiques Cen-

2 ★ Sandwich Glass

ter. This multi-dealer shop occupies

Museum. This fascinating museum captures the history of the town, where glassmaking flourished from 1828 to 1888. A multimillion-dollar renovation and expansion has freshened up the entire museum, and glass is displayed in light and airy rooms. Glass-blowing demonstrations are featured. An excellent gift shop stocks Sandwich-glass replicas, as well as original glassworks

a 6,000-square-foot (557.4 sq. m) building on Rte. 6A. Nautical items, clocks, and decoys are among the specialties. There is always a selection of antique Sandwich glass, which was once manufactured here. 131 Rte. 6A (5 min. from the Sagamore Bridge), Sandwich. y 508/ 833-3600. www.sandwichantiques center.com.

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Current Heading Antiquing Old King’s 1 Highway

by area artisans. 129 Main St., Sandwich. y 508/888-0251. www.sand wichglassmuseum.org.

Brewster

R E W S T E R Long Pd.

HARWICH

h Harwich is Harwich Port Dennis Port

E T

3 ★★ Harden Studios. An antiques shop that doubles as an art gallery, this is a highly original place. The primary focus of the antiques is early Americana, with an emphasis on furniture. The building itself, the Deacon Robert Davis House, was built in 1690. 3264 Main St./Rte. 6A, Barnstable Village. y 508/3627711. www.hardenstudios.com. Open by chance or appointment.

4 Lil-Bud Antiques. Early American pattern glass is the specialty at this little shop on Rte. 6A in Yarmouth Port. 142 Main St./Rte. 6A, Yarmouth Port. y 508/362-8984.

5 Parnassus Books. While you’re in the neighborhood (Yarmouth Port), you might want to stop into Parnassus, where you can find a good read within the teetering stacks of books, both new and old, including specialty catalogs on a variety of subjects. 220 Main St./Rte. 6A), Yarmouth Port. y 508/3626420. www.parnassusbooks.com.

6 ★★ Antiques Center of Cape Cod. This is the largest and busiest antiques center on Cape Cod. Among the wares offered by the more than 250 dealers are furniture, glass, art, clocks, books, jewelry, silver, pottery, and collectibles. 243 Main St./Rte. 6A, Dennis. y 508/385-6400. www.antique centerofcapecod.com.

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Harden Studios in Barnstable Village offers antiques and art in a historic house.

7 ★★ Countryside Antiques. The proprietor here roams the world in search of stylish furnishings—mostly old—though age and price are evidently no object. You’ll find items of English, Irish, French, Swedish, and Chinese provenance. There is china, porcelain, silver, and decorative objects of all types, as well as furniture. 2052 Main St./Rte. 6A, Brewster. y 508/896-1444. www.countrysideantiquesinc.com.

8 ★ The Mews at Brewster. Representing seven dealers, this antiques store specializes in country furniture, primitives, and folk art. 2926 Main St./Rte. 6A (across from Ocean Edge Resort), Brewster. y 508/896-4887. Open Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 11am–5pm.

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Plymouth Harbor K7 I N GCaptain S T O N Penniman House

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8 The Gingerbread Cottages of Martha’s Vineyard

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5 mi 5 km

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C

ape Cod is really a bonanza for those interested in architecture. Along a 20-mile (32.2km) stretch of the Old King’s Highway, you have a dozen different formative architecture styles from the early decades of this country. You’ll find bare bones pre-Revolutionary Cape–style houses all the way to elaborate and whimsical Victorian-era Second Empire–style homes. The many house museums on the Cape allow you to take a close look at the exterior details and then tour the interiors, which are usually decorated with period furniture. I also include some of the historic architecture on Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard for you to explore. START: Sandwich. Trip length: 1-3 days.

1 ★ Hoxie House in Sandwich. Located on the edge of Shawme Pond, the 1680 Hoxie House is one of the oldest houses on the Cape. The interior is spare, because resources were hard to come by in Colonial New England. Windows were tiny to avoid the tax on glass. Docents give frequent tours. @ 1⁄2 hr. 18 Water St. y 508/ 888-1173. Open mid-June to mid-Oct Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm. Admission $3 adults, $2 children.

From the Hoxie House, head northwest on Water St. toward Main St. Take a slight right at Tupper Rd. Take the third right onto Rte. 6A East, the Old King’s Highway.

2 ★★★ The Old King’s Highway/Rte. 6A. Drive along the Old King’s Highway through the villages of West Barnstable, Barnstable, and Yarmouth Port to see examples of that most humble of house styles: the Cape Cod–style house. Look for simplicity: the steeply pitched roof, the gable to the side, the central chimney, two windows on each side of the central door. An appealing variation is the half Cape, which cuts the profile in half, leaving just a door and two windows to one side. There is also the three-quarter Cape, which has just one window on one side of the two, the usual two windows on the other side. A great example of a half-Cape house is on the south side of Rte. 6A in

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Yarmouth Port just west of Parnassus Book Shop. Continue on Rte. 6A to Brewster to see some fine examples of grand mid-19th-century sea captains’ homes, near the intersection of Stony Brook Rd. @ 2 hr. At Yarmouth Port (about 16.5 mile/ 27km) from Sandwich, take a break.

Take A Break ★ Optimist Café. Take high tea in this National Historic Register Gothic Revival house, a pink delight of “gingerbread” trim. About 1⁄4 mile

3

(.4km) east of intersection Willow St. and Rte. 6A, on north side of street. 45 min. 134 Main St./Rte. 6A, Yarmouth Port. y 508/362-1024. Daily 7am–4pm. $–$$.

Whale jawbones describe the entrance to the Edward Penniman House in Eastham.

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33

Cape & Islands Architecture The Gingerbread Cottages of Martha’s Vineyard are a colorful example of the Victorian style.

Head east on Rte. 6A toward N. Sandyside Lane .5 mile (.75km). Turn right at Strawberry Lane.

4 ★★ Captain Bangs Hallett House Museum. This 1840 Greek Revival house (an update of the 1740 original structure) is named for the China trade seafarer who lived here from 1863 to 1893. Rooms contain examples of the finest furniture of the day. @ 1⁄2 hr. 11 Strawberry Lane (off Rte. 6A), Yarmouth Port. y 508/362-3909. Open June– Oct Thurs–Sun. Tours at 1, 2 & 3pm. Admission $3 adults, 50¢ children.

You can walk or drive to the next destination. Head north on Strawberry Lane .1 mile (.2km). Turn left at Rte. 6A.

5 ★★ Winslow Crocker House. Owned by the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities, this 1780 beauty is an example of the Georgian style and is packed with antiques—Jacobean to Chippendale—collected in the 1930s by a descendant of the town’s first land grantee. @ 45 min. 250 Rte. 6A, Yarmouth Port. y 617/ 227-3957. Admission $4. Open June– Oct, 1st Sat of each month, tours hourly 11am–4pm.

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Head northeast on Rte. 6A toward Strawberry Lane. Turn right at Union St., and take Rte. 6 east 10.1 miles (16km) to exit 11 for Rte. 137 toward Brewster– Chatham. Turn left at Brewster– Chatham Rd. and go 1.7 miles (2.5km). Turn left at Old Queen Anne Rd., and go 1 mile (1.5km). Turn left at Main St., and at the traffic circle take the 1st exit onto Stage Harbor Rd.

6 ★ The Old Atwood House Museum. This 1752 homestead harbors lots of collections, from seashells to the complete works of Cape author Joseph C. Lincoln, whose books set on old Cape Cod were best-sellers in the 1920s.

@ 1 hr. 347 Stage Harbor Rd., Chatham (about 2⁄3 mile [1.1km] south of Main St.). y 508/945-2493. Admission $5 adults, $3 students. Open mid-June to Oct Tues–Sat 1–4pm.

Return to the Brewster–Chatham Rd. and go 1.7 miles (2.5km), and take a slight right onto Rte. 6/ Mid-Cape Hwy. Continue 6.6 miles (10km), and at the traffic circle take the 2nd exit and stay on Rte. 6 for 1.5 miles (2km). Turn right at Governor Prence Rd. Keep right at the fork to Fort Hill Rd.

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7 ★★ Captain Penniman House. In the Fort Hill section of Eastham, the Penniman House is an incredible example of the elaborate Second Empire style. Built by a whaling sea captain in 1868 and wellknown as one of the most heavily decorated buildings on Cape Cod, the house has a mansard, or double pitched roof, elaborate moldings around the windows, and an octagonal cupola. The house remained in the Penniman family until the Cape Cod National Seashore purchased it in 1963. Check out the whale jawbones that serve as the entrance to the property. @ 1⁄2 hr. At the end of Fort Hill Rd., Eastham (off Rte. 6 about 1 mile [1.6km] south of the town center). y 508/255-3421. July & Aug Tues–Fri 10am–4pm.

To reach Martha’s Vineyard by boat or plane, see “Getting There” in The Savvy Traveler, p 177.

8 ★ The Gingerbread Cottages of Martha’s Vineyard. Perhaps the most famous group of houses in the region are cottages in the Camp Meeting grounds in Oak Edgartown has some of the finest examples of sea captains’ homes in the region.

The Jethro Coffin House on Nantucket dates back to the 17th century.

Bluffs. These fanciful late-Victorianstyle cottages are known as “Carpenter Gothic,” because of their elaborate trim. @ 1 hr. Cottage Museum, 1 Trinity Park Circle, Oak Bluffs. y 508/693-7784. www. mvcma.org. The museum is open Mon–Sat 10am–4pm & Sun 1–4pm during the summer season. Admission: $2 adults, 50¢ children 3–12.

From Trinity Park, take Seaview Ave. 3.8 miles (6km) to Edgartown Oak Bluffs Rd. Continue onto Beach Road, then Oak Bluffs Rd., to Upper Main St. (1.5 miles/ 2.5km total). Turn right at South Water St.

9 ★ Sea Captains’ Houses. Journey over to South Water Street in Edgartown to see a row of the finest sea captains’ houses on the island. None are open to the public, but it’s fun to gawk. @ 30 min. To reach Nantucket by boat or plane, see “Getting There” in The Savvy Traveler, p 177.

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On the Vineyard, make a beeline to the “gingerbread” cottages in Oak Bluffs, then on to Edgartown. A great way to see the historic properties on Edgartown’s Main Street is by taking a guided tour. Tours of the ? ★ Dr. Daniel Fisher House (1840) and the Á ★ Old Whaling Church (1843), both Greek Revival style, and the ª ★ Vincent House (1672), a full Cape,

are available daily in summer at 11am, noon, 1, and 2pm. The Vincent House, which has five rooms decorated in period style, is open May 1 to Columbus Day Monday to Saturday from 10:30am to 3pm. Walking tours by Liz Villard begin at the Vincent House and last 45 minutes. For current tour schedule, call y 508/627-8619 or go to www. marthasvineyardhistory.org.

0 ★ Jethro Coffin House. On

! ★★ Hadwen House. At the other end of the spectrum on Nantucket with regard to wealth and closer to the center of town, there is a Greek Revival–style home built in 1845 and decorated with opulent furniture from the period. @ 2 hr.

Nantucket, you need only throw a stone to hit a house of historic significance, thanks to strict preservation laws. The house considered the oldest on Nantucket is a “salt-box” style house, built around 1686. It’s filled with the no-frills furniture typical of the period. 6 Sunset Hill Lane (off W. Chester St., a half-mile [.8km] northwest of town center).

Drive, walk, or bike west on Sunset Hill Lane toward N. Liberty St. Turn left at N. Liberty St., which becomes Gardner St. in about .4 mile (.7km). In .1 mile (.2km), turn left at Main St.

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for both. 96 Main St. (at Pleasant St., a few blocks southwest of town center). Both the Coffin & Hadwen properties are open June–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm. Historical Association tickets purchased at the Whaling Museum on Broad St. ($6 adults, $3 children) get you in both buildings.

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Cape Cod for Kids

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any kids can be plopped on the beach to amuse themselves for hours on end. That’s one way to spend a Cape Cod vacation. But there are so many more things to do here, both fun and educational. And a little break from the sun never hurt anyone. Since you don’t want to spend all day in the car, I have picked sites that are all within an easy drive of the Mid-Cape area. START: Heritage Museums and Gardens, Sandwich. Trip length: 1 day.

Cape Cod for Kids

M

Monomoy Pt.

1 ★★★ Heritage Museums and Gardens. There’s something

S O U N D

for everyone on this 76-acre (30.8-hectare) property, and kids will likely leave clamoring for another visit. The three museum buildings house unique collections. The round Shaker Barn is the place to find vintage automobiles, dating back to the Model T. Another building displays Native American artifacts and a collection of antique tin soldiers set up in tableaux illustrating every U.S. battle beginning with the Revolutionary War. There is a 1912 carousel with unlimited rides. The property is famous for its gardens, especially the rhododendrons, whose blooms burst forth in late spring in colors ranging from soft pink to gaudy orange. Summer concerts are held on the lawn Sundays beginning at Heritage Museum has an antique carousel with unlimited rides.

Kids can figure out how things work in hands-on exhibits at the Cape Cod Children’s Museum.

2pm. @ 2 hr. Follow signs from town

Nobska Pt.

Woods Hole

Falmouth

South Cape Beach S.P.

center. 67 Grove St., Sandwich (about 1⁄2 mile [.8km] southeast of town center). y 508/888-3300. www.heritagemuseumsandgardens. org. Admission $12 adults, $10 seniors 65 & over. $6 children. Open Apr–Oct daily 10am–5pm.

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Take Rte. 28 from Sandwich to the Mashpee rotary, which is west 10 miles (16.1km) from Hyannis or east 10 miles (16.1km) from Falmouth; Children’s Museum is 2 miles (3.2km) south of the rotary.

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Fun at the Natural History Museum The Cape Museum of Natural History ★★★ in Brewster is an interactive museum with many displays of interest to children. There are whale noises, a live hive of bees, and marine tanks of fish, shellfish, and reptiles. Families will have fun exploring the 85 acres (34.4 hectares) of trails behind the museum, which lead to a deserted beach. 869 Main St./Rte. 6A, Brewster (about 2 miles [3.2km] west of Rte. 124). y 508/896-3867. www.ccmnh.org. Admission $8 adults, $7 seniors, $3.50 children. Open June– Sept daily 9:30am–4pm.

2 ★★ Cape Cod Children’s

@ 1 hr. 728 Main St./Rte. 28, South

Museum. This one is best for little

Yarmouth. y 508/394-6200. www. piratescove.net. Open May–Oct daily 10am–10pm. A round is $8.50 for ages 13 & up, $7.50 for 12 & under.

kids. There are oodles of things for them, including a toddler castle, puppet theater, and a 30-foot (9.1m) pirate ship. There is also a “StarLab” planetarium and a submarine. Kids can use their imaginations in a pretend diner, post office, rowboat, or train. @ 1 hr. Summer hours Mon–

Proceed east on Rte. 28 for 7.2 miles (11 km) to Seafood Sam’s.

Take A Break

Fri 10am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm. Call for off-season hours. To avoid peak crowds, avoid weekends. 577 Great Neck Rd. South, Mashpee y 508/ 539-8788. www.capecodchildrens museum.org. Admission $6 ages 1–59; $5 for seniors.

4 = Seafood Sam’s. Helpfully

From Rte. 6, take exit 7 & turn left off the ramp. Take the second left (about 1⁄2 mile [.8km]) onto Higgins Crowell Rd. Follow Higgins Crowell to the 2nd set of lights & take a left onto Rte. 28. Pirate’s Cove is 2 miles (3.2km) down on the left. Look for the exploding pirate ship.

sams.com. Open mid-Feb to late Nov daily 11am–9pm. $-$$.

3 ★★ Pirate’s Cove Adventure Golf. Cape Cod is a mini-golf haven but among the most appealing courses is Pirate’s Cove, which has two 18-hole courses offering caves, footbridges, and waterfalls, and a bit of macabre humor too.

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located within a big bounce of the Trampoline Center, this McDonald’sstyle clam shack, part of a Cape chain, dishes out deep-fried seafood, fast. 302 Rte. 28, Harwich Port.

y 508/432-1422. www.seafood

Walk or drive .1 mile east to the Trampoline Center.

5 ★ Trampolines, Go-Carts, and Bumper Boats. Want your kids to sleep well? Take them to Rte. 28 in Harwich. The Trampoline Center is loads of fun, though bouncing adds up fast. Bud’s GoKarts welcomes hot-rodders as young as 8, provided they meet the height requirement (54 in./137cm). Bumper Boats is just down the

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Cape Cod for Kids

road. If all else fails, there’s Castle in the Clouds, a playground behind Harwich Elementary School. @ 2 hr. 296 Rte. 28, West Harwich. y 508/ 432-8717. $5 for 10 min.; Bud’s GoKarts, at the intersection of routes 28 & 139, Harwich. y 508/4324964. $6 per ride. Grand Slam Entertainment, 322 Main St., Harwich Port. y 508/430-1155. $6 per boat ride.

For directions and schedules for ball fields and teams, visit www. capecodbaseball.com.

6 ★★★ Cape Cod Baseball League game. It doesn’t get much better than this: real baseball minus the hype and the huge salaries. The Cape League is one of the premier training grounds for Major Leaguers and with scouts at every game, this is serious baseball. But it’s also loads of fun. Kids love trying to catch a foul ball. Parents love that the games are free. There are six ballparks on the Cape in Bourne, Falmouth, Cotuit, Hyannis, Yarmouth, Harwich,

Kids can bounce from one activity to the next at the Trampoline Center.

Chatham, Brewster, and Orleans. Game schedules are in local papers or online at www.capecodbaseball. com. @ 2 hr.

Enjoy a sweet treat during a day of fun activities on the Cape.

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Cape Cod on a Budget 0

10 mi

2 Provincetown

10 km

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Truro

Duxbury

CAPE COD NATIONAL SEASHORE

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Wellfleet

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6

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Orleans

Brewster Yarmouth 6

Harwich

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4

28

Hyannis 3

Osterville Monomoy N.W.R.

East Falmouth

1 Grews Pond in Goodwill Park

Falmouth NANTUCKET SOUND

2 Main Street, Provincetown 3 Hyannis Harbor 4 Cape Cod Baseball League Game

I

s it possible to find inexpensive Cape activities? The ones listed below are all free, and they are a mere sampling of the simple and cheap pleasures that can be found on these shores. Remember: It’s not the Riviera; it’s Cape Cod, a place where people have always been able to enjoy a vacation that doesn’t break the bank. START: Anywhere you like. Trip length: 1-??? days.

1 ★★ Grews Pond in Good-

2 Walking down Main

will Park. This freshwater pond in

Street. The most entertaining of

a large town forest stays relatively uncrowded, even in the middle of summer. While everyone else is experiencing beach rage, trying to find parking at Falmouth’s popular saltwater beaches, here you can park for free and wander shady paths around the pond. You’ll find picnic tables, a playground, barbecue grills, volleyball net, a lifeguard, and restrooms. Off Palmer Ave./Rte.

the Cape’s Main Streets is Commercial Street in Provincetown, where buskers, hawkers, musicians, and drag queens all compete for your attention. Besides Provincetown, the Main Streets for window shopping and people-watching would have to be a three-way tie between Falmouth, Hyannis, and Chatham. Remember, window shopping is free, but the Cape is also a mecca for bargain shopping (especially in the off season).

28, Falmouth, just north of the traffic lights near the hospital.

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41

CAPE COD NATIONAL SEASHORE

ham Orleans

4 ★★ Cape Cod Baseball

atham

moy W.R.

Cape Cod on a Budget

Shakespeare in the Park. High school students take a fresh look at the Bard’s masterpieces of fun and humor and confusion. Local musicians perform free concerts from 6 to 7:30pm at Aselton Park on Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday nights. The town band plays Wednesdays at 7:30pm in the park. There are also strolling musicians on Main Street in Hyannis on Thursdays in the summer from 7 to 9pm, and various events, including free music concerts, on the Village Green.

Chill out at Grews Pond in Falmouth.

3 ★★★ Arts, Music & Theater at Hyannis Harbor. All summer, Bismore and Aselton parks on Hyannis Inner Harbor are the places to see free concerts, plays, and art exhibits. The Harbor Your Arts artist shanties, seven small booths where local artists work, feature painters, potters, and other crafters. The shanties are open daily in summer 11am to 8pm. On Sundays in July, the Barnstable Summer Family Theater entertains with

League Game. Many people plan their Cape Cod vacations around the schedules of their favorite team in the Cape Cod Baseball League. A training ground for the Major League, this is one of the top summer leagues in the country. Talented college athletes play their hearts out at nine baseball diamonds all over the Cape. The season lasts just about 6 weeks. These free events (donations are requested) are a great way to spend family time in the afternoons and evenings. For schedules & information, check out www.capecodbase ball.org or call y 508/432-6909.

Batter up at the old (Cape Cod League) baseball game.

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Cape Cod for Art Lovers 0

5 mi

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PROVINCETOWN 6

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1 The Cove Gallery 2 Left Bank Gallery 3 Susan Baker Memorial Museum 4 Truro Vineyards 5 DNA Gallery 6 Berta Walker Gallery 7 Provincetown Art Association & Museum 8 Cafe Mews 9 Gallery Ehva

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ohemians began arriving on the Outer Cape more than 100 years ago, and the art colony once called the largest in the United States is still going strong. The dozens of art galleries on Commercial Street in Provincetown stay open well into the evening. Wellfleet, which bills itself as the “art gallery town,” also has its share of interesting galleries with crafts like pottery a specialty. Many Outer Cape galleries are open 11am to 8pm (or later) in summer.

N T I C A N

AL ORE

START: Commercial St., Wellfleet. Trip length: 1 day.

Wellfleet is approximately 13 miles (21km) north of Orleans on Rte. 6. You’ll see a set of traffic lights for Wellfleet Center. Turn left onto East Main St., take your first left on East Commercial St., travel 1⁄2 mile (.8km). In Wellfleet, you can walk to both galleries.

1 ★ The Cove Gallery. One of the more distinguished galleries in town, the Cove carries the paintings and prints of well-known artists like John Grillo, whose exuberantly colored abstract paintings are considered seminal works. Several galleries are on this stretch of road. North Eastham

@ 15 min. 15 Commercial St. (alongside Duck Creek), Wellfleet. y 508/ 349-2530. www.covegallery.com. 2 ★ Left Bank Gallery. Pottery, textiles, and collages share space with oil paintings at this reputable gallery, one of the oldest in town and also one of the largest. Its sister

am

Orleans

galleries, on Main Street in Wellfleet and on Cove Road in Orleans are worth visiting too. @ 20 min. 25

Cape Cod for Art Lovers

B

Commercial St. (alongside Duck Creek). y 508/349-9451. www.left bankgallery.com.

From Commercial St., Wellfleet, head north toward Bank St. Turn right at Main St., then left at Rte. 6E. Turn left at Rte. 6A/Shore Rd.

3 ★ Susan Baker Memorial Museum. Whimsical artist Susan Baker did not want to wait until she died to have a museum named after her, so she started one up herself. Her well-known cartoons, particularly about local dogs, grace T-shirts, but her colorful primitive paintings of Europe landscapes are worth a closer look. Take the North Truro exit off Route 6 and follow signs toward N. Truro center. @ 15 min. 46 Rte. 6A/Shore Rd., N. Truro. y 508/4872557. www.susanbakerart.com.

The Outer Cape is a destination for art-lovers, who look for that unique find in one of the many galleries.

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44 You can walk about 40 ft. (12m) to Truro Vineyards. ★ Truro Vineyards. One of the last working farms on the Outer Cape, this vineyard produced its first wines in 1996. The bottles with their paintings of the property make nifty keepsakes. @ 1 hr. 11 Shore

4

Rd./Rte. 6A, N. Truro. y 508/4876200. www.trurovineyardsofcape cod.com. Wine tastings are held Mon–Sat 11am–5pm, Sun noon– 5pm. Guided tours at 1 & 3pm.

From the Vineyards, head west on Rte. 6A/Shore Rd toward Highland Rd. Continue to follow 6A into Provincetown. Park at a public lot in Provincetown and walk to the remaining stops.

5 ★★ DNA Gallery. You’ll likely find something politically charged or avant-garde at this well-respected gallery on the far East End of town.

@ 15 min. 288 Bradford St. (above the Provincetown Tennis Club), Provincetown. y 508/487-7700. www. dnagallery.com. The Left Bank Gallery in Wellfleet features work by modern artists.

6 ★ Berta Walker Gallery. Always worth a look, Berta Walker represents established talents with links to old Provincetown. @ 10 min. 208 Bradford St. (in the East End of town), Provincetown. y 508/ 487-6411. www.bertawalker.com.

7 ★★★ Provincetown Art Association & Museum. The finest museum on Cape Cod and the most elegant (with its new modern addition), this museum is definitely worth a visit. Established in 1914 by a group of artists, the museum has a rich history that stretches back to the earliest days of Provincetown’s art colony. There is typically an exhibit reaching back into its extraordinary collections, alongside something more contemporary.

@ 45 min. 460 Commercial St. (in the East End), Provincetown. y 508/ 487-1750. www.paam.org. Admission $7. June–Sept Mon–Thurs 11am– 8pm, Fri 11am–10pm, Sat–Sun 11am– 5pm. Call for off-season hours.

Take A Break

8

Cafe Mews. Have a glass of wine (or something stronger) in the upstairs area of this establishment with its century-old carved mahogany bar, located in the East End gallery district. Downstairs is a finedining restaurant. @ 45 min. 429

Commercial St., Provincetown. y 508/487-1500. www.mews.com.

9 ★ Gallery Ehva. Historic Provincetown art is displayed alongside contemporary pieces in this new gallery everyone is talking about on the outskirts of town. The grounds double as a sculpture garden for abstract pieces. @ 20 min. 74 Shank Painter Rd. (a mile [1.6km] south of Commercial St., just off Rte. 6), Provincetown. y 508/487-0011. www.galleryehva.com.

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The Best Towns & Villages

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4 Nobska Lighthouse

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BUZ Z A R D S

11 Waquoit Bay National Estuarine Reserve and Washburn Island

10 Tony Andrews Farm

9 Coonamessett Farm

8 Falmouth Heights

7 The Knob

6 Coffee Obsession

5 Woods Hole

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The Best Towns & Villages

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Johns Pd.

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Falmouth

Previous page: There’s nothing like listening to the town band play on the village green on a balmy Cape Cod night.

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he second-largest town on Cape Cod, Falmouth is also one of the most scenic, with over 68 miles (109.4km) of coastline. Among its eight villages is Woods Hole, a world-renowned oceanic research center. Scientists began using the fishing village as a port for research in 1871, around the same time that tourists discovered this town by the sea. One of the first resort communities laid out on the Cape was Falmouth Heights, which still retains tiny lanes and Victorian houses of the 19th century. Taking a drive along the shore in Falmouth, past Nobska Lighthouse and Falmouth Heights Beach, is a great way to see the town. The Village Green is a good place to start your tour.

Travel Tip For recommended restaurants and hotels in towns and villages in this chapter, see chapter 6 (Best Dining), p 117, and chapter 9 (Best Lodging), p 157.

1 ★ Falmouth Museums on the Green. Encompassing three buildings, this is a good introduction to the town of Falmouth, which was incorporated in 1686. The 1790 Julia Wood House was built by physician Dr. Francis Wicks; his (sometimes terrifying) office supplies are still intact here. The mid18th century Conant House, which evolved from a half-Cape, houses an interesting nautical collection, sailor’s valentines, and whaling artifacts. The Hallett Barn’s revolving displays of local history are

Falmouth

T

definitely worth a look. From here you can walk or drive up to ★★★ Highfield Hall (p 19) or walk around Main Street. A few blocks from the Village Green is the Falmouth Public Library. On the front lawn is a statue of Katharine Lee Bates, who grew up in Falmouth and penned the lyrics to the song, “America The Beautiful.” Behind the library, on Katharine Lee Bates Road, is a cupola sitting in a lush garden next to a path that winds next to Shivericks Pond. The cupola used to be atop a town elementary school. When the building was torn down, the cupola was saved and restored. @ 45 min. 55–65 Palmer Ave. on the Falmouth Village Green. y 508/548-4857. www.falmouthhistoricalsociety.org. Admission $5 adults, free for children. Open late June to early Oct Tues–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat 10am–1pm.

Start your visit to Falmouth at the Museums on the Green.

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walking paths through fields and woods leading to Ice House Pond.

@ 1 hr. Free. Take Woods Hole Road south. At the traffic light, take a left on Oyster Pond Rd. In 1⁄2 mile (.8km), take a left on Fells Rd.

3 ★★ Spohr Gardens. Tiny but

The Julia Wood House features many period antiques from the 19th century.

From the Falmouth, drive south down Woods Hole Rd. Look for the small sign at McCallum Dr. Take a sharp right up the hill to reach the farm parking area.

2 ★ Peterson Farm. At this 88-acre (35.6-hectare) historic farm, which is owned by the town, a flock of sheep graze with a llama, Scamp, watching over them. There are

dazzling, the 6-acre (2.4-hectare) privately owned Spohr Gardens invites visitors to explore the lovely grounds located by Oyster Pond. In the spring, thousands of daffodils bloom, followed by rhododendrons and daylilies. Paths wind past a collection of huge antique anchors and millstones. @ 20 min. Fells Rd. Free. Take Main St. to Shore Rd. & drive south to the beach. Follow the road right along the coastline. In about 2 miles (3.2km), you’ll see Nobska Lighthouse on the right, at the top of a bluff.

4 ★ Nobska Lighthouse. This 1876 lighthouse warns ships away from the bluff with a flashing white

Festivals in Falmouth Popular fall festivals in Falmouth are ★ Pumpkin Day and the ★ Cranberry and Farm Festival. Pumpkin Day is held on the Bourne Farm, a 40-acre (16.2-hectare) historic farm in West Falmouth. There are crafts, food, and games for children, and pumpkin picking. The Cranberry and Farm Festival takes place on town-owned bogs on John Parker Road. Events include cranberry harvesting demonstrations, cranberry baked goods and crafts sale, and games for children. For more information, call the Falmouth Chamber of Commerce at y 508/548-4800. In the spring, Daffodil Days takes place in late April at the 6-acre (2.4-hectare) ★★ Spohr Gardens on Fells Road. (To get there, take Woods Hole Rd. to the lights at Oyster Pond. Take a left at the lights and travel 1⁄4 mile [.4km] to Fells Road. The gardens are a block down on the right, at the edge of Oyster Pond.) The gardens, which feature a number of large antique anchors, are planted with thousands of daffodils. For more information, call y 508/548-0623.

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Falmouth

Stop off at the Farmer’s Market in Falmouth.

light and a fog signal every 30 seconds when the weather warrants it. The keeper’s house serves as the home for the commander of Coast Guard Sector Southeastern New England. The grounds are open to the public; the lighthouse tower is open only during scheduled open houses. From the bluff across the street from the lighthouse is a great view across Vineyard Sound. On clear days, you can see the Elizabeth Islands and Martha’s Vineyard. You’ll see ferries making their way between Woods Hole and the island. The plaque on the lookout is dedicated to a young woman who died in one of the airplanes during the terrorist attacks on September 11, 2001. @ 15 min. Open for tours every other Thurs & Sat morning in summer.

5 ★★★ Woods Hole. This lively village, the main ferry departure spot for Martha’s Vineyard and one of the top scientific research centers in the country, is always lively. Add a hippie mystique and a fishing village vibe and you’ve got Woods Hole in a nutshell. Walk down Water Street, the main drag and go over the drawbridge. The bridge raises and lowers on a schedule in summer. You’ll pass the historic Woods Hole Community Hall, where events like concerts,

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theater, festivals, and even contra dancing take place year-round. Next door is the historic firehouse, the site of craft fairs, square dances, politically charged film festivals, and farmers markets. Ahead on the left, stop by Waterfront Park to check out the sundial and the squid gate, a clever sculpture marking the pier where a boat that researches squid is docked. At the end of Water Street, at the corner of Albatross Street, you’ll see the seal tanks in front of the Woods Hole Aquarium, a free museum with lots of interesting tanks full of sea creatures. @ 90 min–2 hr.

Take a Break

6 ★ Coffee Obsession. This hip coffee bar attracts slackers, scientists, and sailors for the best coffee in town. Coffee O., as it’s known, has free Wi-Fi, and a play area for children. The outdoor patio is the place to sit to watch the world go by. @ 1⁄2 hr. 38 Water St., Woods Hole. y 508/540-8130. Open 6:30am–7:30pm. $.

From Water St., take Quissett Ave. north to Quissett Harbor Rd. Take a left & drive toward the harbor. Limited parking is to the right.

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7 ★★★ The Knob. Named for the round tip of this peninsula that sticks out into Quissett Harbor, the Knob is a favorite for walkers (particularly those with dogs). Quissett Harbor, where the path starts, is a secluded and picturesque setting, filled with gleaming wooden sailboats. Walk through the woods and out along a narrow section then up a short incline to the actual “knob,” a round point that sticks out into Buzzards Bay. There are benches at the promontory, a great place to stare out to sea.

@ 45 min. Take Main St. to Scranton Ave., left on Robbins Rd., right on Falmouth Heights Rd. Follow the road as it becomes Grand Ave. and skirts the coastline.

8 ★★ Falmouth Heights. No coastal drive in Falmouth is complete without traveling through Falmouth Heights. The large building at the bottom of the hill, Casino FX, was once the site of a rowdy nightclub that was torn down and replaced with this condominium/restaurant complex. @ 1 hr. y 508/563-2560. From Main St., drive east to Sandwich Rd., north 5 miles (8km) to Hatchville Rd. Farm is 2 miles (3.2km) down on the right.

9 ★★ Coonamessett Farm. A farmstand full of vegetables that are grown out back is one of the highlights of this property. You can pick your own, look at the farm animals out back (including two llamas), or rent a canoe to paddle in the pond. This farm has popular dinners in the summer: a vegetarian buffet dinner ★ on Friday nights from 5 to 8pm and Jamaican buffet dinner ★★, featuring jerk chicken and live reggae music, on Wednesday nights from 5 to 8pm.

@

1 ⁄2 hr. 277 Hatchville Rd., East Falmouth. y 508/563-2560. www. coonamessettfarm.com. The dinner costs $20 adults, $11 children.

Take Sandwich Rd. north to Carriage Shop Rd. Veer right onto Old Meeting House Rd. The farm is a few miles up on the right.

0 ★★ Tony Andrews Farm. Tony, who arrived in Falmouth in the 1920s from the Cape Verde Islands, died a few years ago at age 100. His son, Geoff, runs the place now. The farm is most famous for the seasonopener: Pick your own strawberries in early June. Then the rest of the veggies come in, including tomatoes and corn that you can buy at the farmstand. There are hayrides and a haunted house in October. @ 1⁄2 hr.

Nobska Lighthouse overlooks the Vineyard Sound.

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Falmouth

394 Old Meeting House Rd., East Falmouth. y 508/548-4717. www. tonyandrewsfarmstand.com. Open 10am–6pm.

From Falmouth, drive on Rte. 28 toward Mashpee. The Reserve is located just under 2 miles (3.2km) from the Davisville lights in East Falmouth on the right after the Waquoit Cemetery. Free. 149 Waquoit Hwy./Rte. 28.

! ★★ Waquoit Bay National Estuarine Reserve and Washburn Island. This 2,700-acre (1,092.7-hectare) property includes open waters, barrier beaches, marshland, and uplands. There is a visitor center, featuring exhibits in coastal ecology, in what was once a very well-located home, set on a 30-foot (9.1m) bluff overlooking Waquoit Bay. WBNERR (pronounced WEB-ner), which is a federally owned nature reserve, maintains a 1-mile (1.6km) path for the public to explore. There are ranger-led walks, concerts, and festivals here yearround. In the summer, Evenings on the Bluff on Tuesday nights at 6:30pm features a variety of performers. For a calendar, see the

Old Silver Beach in North Falmouth is a popular spot for families.

website at www.waquoitbay reserve.org. You can launch a kayak into the Child’s River from a public boat ramp just east of here near Edward’s Boat Yard and paddle out to Washburn Island, a 330-acre (133.5-hectare) state preserve with nothing but woods, a few simple campsites and a beautiful barrier beach. @ 1 hr. (for visitor center & trails), 3 hr. (to kayak to Washburn Island). Waquoit. y 508/457-0495. Open Mon–Fri 10am–4pm yearround & also on Sat 10am–4pm in July & Aug.

Tips For Visiting Old Silver Beach Proximity to the Bourne Bridge and the high quality of the sand make Old Silver Beach in North Falmouth the most popular stretch of sand in the Upper Cape. The beach parking is divided into two areas, one for residents and one for visitors. Arrive before 10am if you want a spot on a weekend in summer. The beach faces west, so this is a good place to come late in the day for sunsets. (Parking is free after 4:30pm.) The waters of Buzzards Bay here are among the warmest on the Cape. There are lots of amenities, including a bathhouse with showers and toilets, food concessions, and lifeguards. From Falmouth, drive north on Rte. 28 to the Rte. 151 exit. Take a right toward North Falmouth. Take a left at the intersection of Rte. 28A. Take the first right turn off the rotary and follow road to the beach. y 508/548-8623. A 1-day parking pass costs $20.

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he only place on Cape Cod that resembles a city, Hyannis is actually a village in the town of Barnstable. It is the commercial and transportation hub on the Cape and the main port of departure for Nantucket. Main Street is a bustling place with several interesting museums within walking distance. In the summer, there are free concerts scheduled 3 nights a week at the harborfront park.

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1 ★★ John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum. The Cape’s most popular attraction—besides the beaches—this museum contains a photographic history of the Kennedys at their summer home in Hyannis Port. The building, which used to serve as town hall, doubles as the office of the Chamber of Commerce. It is flanked by two handy buildings, the Hyannis Public Library and the Hyannis Post Office. Behind the museum and just down the road on South Street is St. Francis Xavier Church, where Caroline Kennedy and many other Kennedys have been married. Rose Kennedy attended Mass here every day. Also on South Street, behind the post office is the Hyannis Armory, 225 South St., which is where on November 7, 1960, then President-elect John F. Kennedy gave his victory speech. @ 20 min. 397 Main St., Hyannis. y 508/790-3077. www. jfkhyannismuseum.org. Admission $6 adults, $3 children.

2 ★ Cape Cod Maritime Museum. Appropriately, since this small museum overlooks Hyannis Inner Harbor, it displays artifacts of ships that wrecked off the coast of Cape Cod. It also exhibits a collection of items from the U.S. Lifesaving Service, the precursor to the Coast Guard. @ 1⁄2 hr. 135 South St., Hyannis. y 508/775-1723. www. capecodmaritimemuseum.org.

Take A Break

3 Common Ground Café. Everything is made fresh at this New

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Memorabilia from JFK’s presidential campaign is on display at the Hyannis museum.

Age-y sandwich shop. If the staff look like members of a cult, that’s because they are (well, members of a New Age-y commune). Booths are set up to look like treehouses. Children will be intrigued, adults perplexed. Good grub though. @ 1⁄2 hr. 420 Main St., Hyannis. y 508/7788390. $.

4 Aselton Park. Above Hyannis Harbor on Ocean Street, this park is quite busy in the summer. There are musical performances 3 nights a week, Shakespeare in the Park by high schoolers, and local artists in the seven artist shanties just steps away. A little farther down Ocean Street is Veterans Park, where the John F. Kennedy Memorial is a popular spot for tourists. @ 10 min.

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5 Hyannisport. Drive on Gosnold Street to Scudder Avenue and south to Sea Street to get the lay of the land in Hyannisport. The unique tower above the beach is part of a private home owned by local artist Sam Barber, who paints colorful Impressionist-style paintings. Farther down is Eugenia Fortes Beach, which was renamed to honor a local African-American woman who said that when she was growing up in Hyannisport, this beach was closed to minorities. Opposite the beach entrance is a small boulder and a rose garden, dedicated to Rose Kennedy. Driving up Irving Avenue to Sunset Hill, past the stone church and tower of St. Andrew’s-by-theSea to the Hyannisport Golf Course gives you a wonderful view of Nantucket Sound. @ 20 min. From Main St., Hyannis, travel west to the West End Rotary & continue straight through the rotary to West Main St. Melody Tent is on the left.

6 ★★ Cape Cod Melody Tent. This blue big top has hosted the

major performers of the past halfcentury, from jazz greats to comedians and crooners to rockers. Every seat is a winner in this oval space. Shows start 8pm nightly from June through early September. There’s also children’s theater Wednesday mornings at 11am. @ 2–3 hrs. 21 W. Main St., Hyannis. y 508/775-5630 or Ticketmaster 800/745-3000. www. melodytent.org. Tickets $18–$45.

Take A Break ★ Lamberts Rainbow Fruit. This produce market and deli has the best fruits and veggies around. The deli is the perfect place to pick up picnic supplies. @ 15 min. 1000

7

West Main St., Centerville. y 508/ 790-5954. $.

8 ★ Zion Union Heritage Museum. The only museum in the region devoted to the story of African Americans and Cape Verdeans on the Cape, this museum tells a compelling story. Because it is a labor of love, you’ll usually find

Artists’ shanties are open for browsers near the harbor in Hyannis.

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The Boston Pops comes to Hyannis for “Pops by the Sea” each summer.

docents standing by to give private tours of the exhibits. Recent exhibits have included American slave artifacts from a private collection. The permanent exhibit includes tribal themed work by local artist Carl Lopes, and display cases with photos of prominent African Americans from the town of Barnstable. @ 45 min. 276 North St., Hyannis (1 block north of Main St.). y 508/790-9466. $5 adults, $2 students, under 10 free. Open Tues–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun noon–4pm.

9 Hyannis Youth & Community Center. This spanking new center has two ice rinks, two basketball courts, a teen center with pool

tables, and, outside, a skateboard park. There is also an indoor walking track. The parking lot is the site of a weekly farmers market on Wednesday mornings in the summer. Friday Night Rock Night is for students in grades 3 to 7. There are various tournaments here open to the public, including hockey, college volleyball championships, and a figure-skating championship. The rink is also the home of the Cape Cod Cubs, a junior hockey league team. 141 Bassett Lane. y 508/790-6345. A day pass costs $5. Skating $7 adults, $5 students, $2 seniors. Rental skates $5. Open Mon–Thurs noon–9pm, Fri & Sat noon–10pm.

Some Beer with your Potato Chips? You’ll find manufacturers of both in Hyannis, along with free samples. Cape Cod Potato Chips at 100 Breeds Hill Rd. (at Independence Way off Rte. 132) in Hyannis (y 508/775-7253; www. capecodchips.com) really are the world’s best. Long a local favorite, they originate right here. Free 15-minute factory tours are offered Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm in July and August. Cape Cod Beer (y 508/790-4200; www.capecodbeer.com) at 1336 Phinney’s Lane, Hyannis, gives free tours of its brewery on Saturdays at 1pm and Tuesdays at 11am.

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aid by some to be the prettiest town on the Cape and among the wealthiest, Chatham is known for its picturesque Main Street, lined with interesting shops, and manicured residential areas, where beach roses wrap around white picket fences. From Lighthouse Beach near the end of Main Street, you can look beyond a barrier beach, a favorite of seals, to the Atlantic Ocean beyond. one end of Main Street to the other, you’ll pass art galleries, bookstores, gift shops, candy-making shops, clothing, toys, and jewelry. The town makes it easy for wanderers. There are three large public parking lots, no parking meters, and two public restrooms. Information booth

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(summer only), 533 Main St.

Take a Break

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The Chatham Squire. One of the quintessential taverns on the Cape. At the end of the day, everyone ends up at the Squire where fishermen rub elbows with CEOs and college students. @ 1 hr. 487

Satisfy your sweet tooth shopping along Chatham’s Main Street.

1 Main Street. Chatham’s treeshaded Main Street, lined with specialty stores, offers a terrific opportunity to shop and stroll. Walking its 1-mile (1.6km) length from

Main St. y 508/945-0945. www. thesquire.com. $–$$.

3 ★★ Chatham Lighthouse. A quarter-mile (.4km) south from the end of Main Street, Chatham Light is an 1876 beacon run by the Coast Guard that is visible 15 miles (24km)

See the Seals in Chatham An enormous gray seal colony that used to hang out on Monomoy Island south of Chatham now seems to prefer being closer to shore. Several outfits operate seal cruises out of Chatham’s harbors and from nearby Harwich. One of the best outfits to check out the seals—which number in the hundreds—is the Beachcomber, which typically stays in the area between North Beach and the lighthouse. You park in their satellite lot on Crowell Rd., north of Rte. 28, a few miles west of the center of town. y 508/9455265. One-and-a-half hour tours cost $27 adults, $25 seniors, $23 children.

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take a shuttle to Lighthouse Beach. Parking is restricted to 30 minutes at a time and swimming is at your own risk. The “risk” is not just the rip tides. The large seal population that likes to frolic near the barrier beach has become an attraction for great white sharks. @ 1⁄2 hr.

Everybody goes to the Chatham Squire.

out to sea. Though not open for viewing, this is a great spot to take in views of the Atlantic Ocean—telescopes are provided—and the “break,” the point where the ocean broke through the barrier beach in 1987. A second break opened up a few years ago. If shopping on Main Street has tired you out, you can

4 ★★ Chatham Bars Inn. Begun as a private hunting lodge in 1914, this property has turned into one of the premier lodging destinations on the Cape. Stroll through the lobby, reminiscent of the grand hotels of yesteryear. Linger on the porch over coffee or a co*cktail while you gaze out on the fabulous view.

@ 20 min. 297 Shore Rd., Chatham. y 508/945-0096. 5 ★★ Chatham Fish Pier. Chatham has the last remaining commercial fishing fleet on the Cape. From noon on, trawlers bring in the catch of the day from fishing grounds miles offshore. You can watch the haul from an observation deck. Check out The Provider, a

The Chatham Lighthouse provides a great vantage point (and telescopes) to view the Atlantic.

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The uninhabited nature reserve known as Monomoy—annual shoaling (tides breaking up the sand) determines whether there are one or two islands—offers 2,750 acres (1,113 hectares) of brushcovered sand favored by some 285 species of migrating birds. Monomoy stretches south from Chatham with Nantucket Sound on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other. The summer and fall are the best times to watch the birds as they embark on their migration. Monomoy Island Ferry (y 508/237-0420) offers cruises to Monomoy from the Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge Headquarters on Morris Island. The price for a 90-minute cruise is $30 adults, $25 children. Massachusetts Audubon Society’s Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary conducts guided natural history tours of Monomoy throughout the year (y 508/349-2615 for information or reservations). Cape Cod Museum of Natural History (y 508/8963867; p 38) also offers guided tours to Monomoy Island, including overnight stays at the restored lighthouse on South Monomoy. To reach Monomoy headquarters on Morris Island, take Route 6 east to Route 137 south to Route 28. A left turn takes you through downtown Chatham (about 3 miles [4.8km]). Turn right at the stop sign, to the Chatham Lighthouse and Coast Guard Station. Take the first left after the lighthouse, then the first right. Follow Morris Island Road to signs for the Refuge on the left.

sculpture by Wood Hole artist Sig Purwin. @ 1⁄2 hr. Corner Shore Rd. &

Chatham

Monomoy, A Wildlife Reserve

Kids can monkey around on the playground in Chatham.

Barcliff Ave., about 1⁄4 mile (.4km) north of Main St. Parking for visitors is in the upper lot.

6 ★ = Chatham Railroad Museum. Constructed in a whimsical “railroad gothic style,” this 1887 train station has been filled with railroading memorabilia, including models from the 1939 New York World’s Fair. A 1910 caboose is out back. @ 1⁄2 hr. 1 block north of Main St. at the west end of town. 153 Depot St., Chatham. Open mid-June to mid-Sept Tues–Sat 10am–4pm. Donations accepted.

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he town at the tip of the Cape—a 100-year-old art colony, a Portuguese fishing village, a beachy dune-filled wilderness, a restaurant and shopping mecca, and a GLBT vacationland—is many things to many people. Throughout history, the place has thrilled just about everyone who has come here, including the Pilgrims, who landed here in 1620. They did the first laundry in the New World and wrote the Mayflower Compact, in that order.

1 ★★★ Provincetown Art Association & Museum. This museum features exhibits from upand-coming artists, established locals, and legendary figures from old Provincetown who made it

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nationally. Its permanent collection contains works going back to the beginnings of this art colony more than 100 years ago. The sophisticated building, mixing modern architecture with old Provincetown,

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Some of the galleries on the East End of Commercial Street worth a visit, from east to west, are a The Schoolhouse Gallery (494 Commercial St. y 508/487-4800. www. schoolhouseprovincetown.com), which often has provocative photography exhibits; and in the same building, b artStrand (y 508/487-1153. www.artstrand.com), which specializes in cutting-edge contemporary work; c Julie Heller East (465 Commercial St. y 508/487-2169. www.juliehellergallery.com), the new

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100 m

gallery from the doyenne of old Provincetown art features contemporary artists; d Albert Merola Gallery (424 Commercial St. y 508/4874424. www.albertmerolagallery. com), who represents some of the top names in the art world; and e Rice/Polak Gallery (430 Commercial St. y 508/487-1052. www. ricepolakgallery.com), which has maintained its top reputation over the decades for displaying intriguing works in a variety of genres and mediums. @ 1hr.

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is also beautiful. The Art Association was founded in 1914 by Charles Hawthorne. In the early days, there were rivalries between the figurative painters and the abstract expressionists. @ 40 min. 460 Commercial St. (take 1st Provincetown exit off Rte. 6, Snail Rd. Drive 1 mile [1.6km].). y 508/487-1750. www. paam.org.

Near the Art Association on Commercial Street are about a dozen galleries worth a visit. These are a fraction of the three dozen or so galleries in town—and there are several good ones on or near Bradford Street too—but these will give you a good dose of a range of styles of artwork displayed in town. Gallery stroll nights are Friday nights in summer, when all the galleries have wine-and-cheese openings and stay open ’til 10pm or so. ★ Angel Foods. This deli and specialty foods store in the far East End is the best in town. It’s a great place to stock a picnic basket before going to the beach. @ 10

2

min. 467 Commercial St. y 508/4876666. $.

3 ★★ Provincetown Public Library. The second floor of the library, built as a church in 1860, has a half-scale replica of the schooner,

Rose Dorothea, which won the Lipton Cup, a race from Boston to Gloucester, in 1907. The statue, Tourists, by Chaim Gross is out front.

@ 15 min. 356 Commercial St. y 508/487-7094. www.ptownlib. com. Open Mon & Fri 10am–5pm, Tues & Thurs noon–8pm, Wed 10am– 8pm, Sat 10am–2pm, Sun 1–5pm. 4 ★★★ Macmillan Wharf. In the 19th century, there were 52 piers jutting into Provincetown Harbor. This, the site of the town’s huge municipal parking lot, is one of a few that remain. It is the home of what remains of Provincetown’s fishing fleet. Walk out to the end of the westerly pier to check out the fishing boats, the whale-watching fleet, charter boats, and pleasure boats moored in the harbor. You can also tour the pricey Whydah museum (y 508/487-8899. Open in summer daily 10am–7pm. Admission $10 adults, $8 seniors and children), at the end of the pier, which contains a small number of artifacts from the discovery of the pirate ship Whydah off Wellfleet in 1984. At the end of the pier, by looking across at Fisherman’s Wharf, you can see a permanent ★★★ art exhibit by photographer Norma Holt and artist Ewa Nogiec, called They Also Faced The Sea. A tribute to Provincetown’s Portuguese fishing community, the exhibit is composed of five

Provincetown: The town at the tip of the Cape.

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Provincetown Everyone spends time strolling (or riding) on Commercial Street, P-town’s main drag.

large black-and-white portrait photos that are mounted on buildings and depict Provincetown women of Portuguese descent. @ 30 min.

5 ★★ Provincetown Town Hall. After a recent renovation, the historic Town Hall is worth a look— see it just for the 1930s murals, commissioned by the Works Progress Administration in the 1930s, that show scenes of old Provincetown when it was a fishing village.

@ 15 min. 260 Commercial St. y 508/487-7000. 6 ★ Unitarian Universalist Meeting House. Steps from the

Town Hall is the “UU,” where Sunday night concerts are a summer highlight. The church, built in 1847, has a sanctuary painted in trompe l’oeil fashion. The lower level also doubles as a theater in summer and services are held there in the winter.

@ 15 min. 236 Commercial St. y 508/487-9344. 7 Whalers Wharf. Across the street from the UU is a multi-story shopping complex, which was reconstructed after being burned to the ground by a fire in February 1998. It has a theater, a finedining restaurant, and a number

Historic Houses You can discover a lot of history in P-town just by reading plaques on buildings. Blue plaques contain the dates that historic homes were constructed and some give the names of famous people who lived there. Look for the garage in the East End, which sits on a site where playwright Eugene O’Neill once lived. Some plaques show a house on a raft. That indicates the house was floated over from Long Point, at the tip of P-town, where there was a tiny village before creeping erosion caused the populace to give up the site. A couple dozen of the Long Point houses can be found in the West End of town.

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After sundown, Provincetown continues to party.

of shops and artist studios. @ 20

9 ★★ Julie Heller Gallery. Visit

min. 237 Commercial St.

this gallery set right on the beach in an old fishing shack. Artwork from old Provincetown is stacked 10 deep leaning against every wall. You’ll find all the early P-town masters, Hawthorn, Avery Hofmann, Lazzell, Hensche, as well as contemporary artists. @ 1⁄2 hr. 2 Gosnold St.

8 The Crown & Anchor. Close by Whaler’s Wharf is the town’s biggest nightclub, actually several nightclubs, bars, a restaurant, and a cabaret in a complex that also includes an inn. You’ll see performers promoting their shows in front during the day. @ 1–3 hours. 247 Commercial St. y 508/487-1430. www.onlyatthecrown.com. The Julie Heller Gallery is one of Provincetown’s most respected.

y 508/487-2169. 0 ★★ The West End. Beginning at the Coast Guard Station, you have entered the West End of Provincetown. Here is where you will see houses marked with plaques indicating they were floated over from Long Point across the harbor in the mid19th century. Tourists like to take photos at Captain Jack’s Wharf, a few blocks down, one of the last remaining wharfs in P-town harbor and a colorful jumble of shacks that are actually individual condominiums rented out by the week. @ 1 hr. At the far west end of Commercial St.

! ★★ The Red Inn. At the far end of Commercial Street is the Red Inn, a picturesque historic property with a white picket fence with climbing roses. This is a great place to have a co*cktail at the end of the day. @ 1 hr. 15 Commercial St.

y 508/487-7334.

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Provincetown has two beaches within the National Seashore: Herring Cove, which faces Cape Cod Bay, and Race Point, which faces the Atlantic Ocean. A day pass for $20 gets you in either one or both. A season pass is $45. If you want to get into the water, Herring Cove is the place on all but the hottest days. Race Point’s waters tend to be frigid, though there is great surf here for frolicking. Both have lifeguards, restrooms, and changing rooms. Nearby are miles of walking trails and a hilly bike path with sweeping dune views. The Province Lands Visitor Center has exhibits about this unique landscape and a variety of ranger-guided tours. @ 1⁄2 hr. (for a visit to the visitor center). Race Point Rd. y 508/487-1256. www.nps.gov/caco. Open mid-Apr to late Nov daily 9am–5pm. Free.

@ ★★★ Long Point. To get out

y 508/487-0898). The shuttle can

to Long Point, the uninhabited spit of sand that curls into Cape Cod Bay and is the very tip of Cape Cod, you can walk across the 1.5-mile (2.4km) West End Breakwater, the giant boulders separating the harbor from the marsh, at the far west end of Commercial Street, near the Provincetown Inn. You can also get to Long Point by taking a shuttle from Flyer’s Boat Rental (131A Commercial St.

pick up at Macmillan Pier or from their west end boatyard. There are two historic lighthouses on Long Point. Wood End Light is the one in the approximate middle of the spit. Long Point Light, a difficult walk of 2 miles (3.2km), is at the end. Shuttles run hourly in July and August and cost $15 round-trip. @ 1 hr. (round-

Provincetown

The Province Lands

trip on the Breakwater); 4 hr. (walking all the way to Long Point).

The old harbor station at Race Point Beach is now a visitor center.

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nce the whaling capital of the world, Nantucket, with its quaint cobblestoned streets and perfectly preserved 19thcentury buildings, is now a wedding and honeymoon destination. But it’s also a good vacation spot for those who like to do a lot of outdoor activities. Smooth bike paths loop throughout the island. Offshore, there’s boating, fishing, and kayaking, or try all three.

1 Main Street. Paved with cobblestones that once served as ballast on whaling ships and lined with 19thcentury buildings, Main Street is sure to charm. Strict preservation laws have meant that the town center has not changed much for the past 150 years when Nantucket was a prosperous whaling port, the third-largest city in Massachusetts and home port for 88 whaling ships. The Great Fire of 1846 destroyed much of the central business district, so most buildings date from the 1850s and after. An economic depression started by

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the decline of the whaling industry lasted until tourists discovered these shores in the late 19th century. The Main Street shopping area ends, appropriately, at the imposing Pacific National Bank building, and you may find use for its handy ATM. @ 1–2 hr.

2 ★ Ropewalk. The only outside raw bar on Nantucket Harbor, this is where the yachting crowd hangs out. @ 1 hr. 1 Straight Wharf.

y 508/228-1116. www.therope walk.com. $$.

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ntucket

Harbor Straight Wharf

Old South Wharf

The Trustees of Reservations, a private statewide conservation organization that oversees the bulk of the Coskata-Coatue Wildlife Refuge, offer a 3-hour naturalist-guided tour twice a day. The trip is over sand dunes via Ford Expedition out to the Great Point Lighthouse, a partly solar-powered replica of the 1818 original. Those interested can also tour the inside of the lighthouse. During the trip through this rare habitat, you might spot snowy egrets, ospreys, terns, and oystercatchers. Departs from Wauwinet parking lot, 120 Wauwinet Rd. y 508/228-6799. $40 adults, $15 children 12 and under. Call for reservations. Mid-May to mid-Oct daily 9:30am and 1:30pm. Closed mid-Oct to mid-May.

Nantucket

Seeing the Wildlife on a Natural History Tour

Commercial Wharf

3 The Hub. The primary newsstand on the island, this is a good place to get the lay of the land on Main Street. Looking across Main Street here, the water trough in the middle of the road, now filled with flowers, is where horses used to stop to quench a thirst. It wasn’t until 1918 that cars were allowed on the island and that was after much of the railroad was destroyed during a storm. The famous Compass Rose on the side of the building on the corner of Union Street now occupied by Ralph Lauren gives the distance from Nantucket to a myriad

of places all around the globe. @ 5 min. 31 Main St. y 508/325-0200.

4 ★★ The Three Bricks. In 1836, Joseph Starbuck, a whale-oil merchant and shipowner, built three identical and elaborate brick houses next to each other for his three sons. Across the street is the Hadwen House, which is owned by the Nantucket Historical Association and is open for tours (p 35). @ 5 min. 93–97 Main St.

5 ★ Maria Mitchell sites. Nantucket native Maria Mitchell (1818– 89), was the first female astronomer

Brant Point Lighthouse, on the west side of Nantucket, is a favorite destination for visitors.

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Fortunes made in the whaling industry led to the building of fine houses like the Three Bricks.

to reach acclaim, and several sites honor her achievements. On clear nights in July and August, Loines Observatory, at 51 Milk St. Ext., is open Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 9pm for viewing the stars. Hinchman House Natural Science Museum is at 7 Milk St. (at Vestal St.). The Mitchell House at 1 Vestal St., the astronomer’s birthplace, offers tours. The tiny aquarium at 28 Washington St. is best for young children. @ 1⁄2 hr. Besides the observatory, the sites are open Tues–Sat

10am–4pm. Admission $6 adults, $5 children or a pass ($10 adults, $8 children) gets you into all of them. y 508/228-9198. www.mmo.org.

6 Centre Street. In the 19th century, the several blocks of Centre Street, stretching from Main to Broad streets, used to be known as Petticoat Row, for the many women who owned and operated the shops. Women traditionally ran the town of Nantucket, as their husbands traveled the seas for years at

An Island Festival: Nantucket Noel The island stirs from its winter slumber for the Christmas Stroll: one last shopping/feasting spree attended by costumed carolers, Santa in a horse-drawn carriage, and a “talking” Christmas tree. This event is the pinnacle of Nantucket Noel, a month of festivities starting in late November. Ferries and lodging establishments book up months in advance, so plan well ahead. Call y 508/228-1700 for more info.

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Costumed carolers bring the holiday spirit to Nantucket Noel.

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Nantucket

a time aboard whaling vessels. These days, Centre Street is one of the best shopping streets on the island because of the unique stores. Among them, you’ll find Dane Gallery at 28 Centre St., with exquisite hand-blown glass; Sweet Inspirations at 26 Centre St., with the town’s best chocolates; and Nantucket Natural Oils at 5 Centre St., an old-fashioned perfume counter.

@ 30–90 min. Take a Break

7 The Bean. The coffee here is Nantucket Coffee Roasters coffee, which is roasted on island and considered to be the best locally. With yummy baked goods too, this is the place to stop for a break. @ 20 min. 29 Centre St. y 508/228-6215. $. The Whaling Museum preserves the history of the industry that made Nantucket famous.

Sankaty Lighthouse is a beacon for visitors to Nantucket on and off-shore.

8 ★ Jared Coffin House. This brick manse, the island’s first threestory building, has long been a landmark in the center of town. It was built in 1845 to the specs of the social-climbing Mrs. Coffin, who abandoned Nantucket after 2 years and left the house to boarders. Now, 160-plus years later, it still serves as an inn and includes several nearby historic buildings. @ 20 min. 29 Broad St. y 508/228-2400. www.jaredcoffinhouse.com.

9 ★★ The Brotherhood of Thieves. This classic whaling pub is in a 19th-century building almost completely rebuilt after a fire in recent years. To feel some of the atmospheric affects of yore, you must have a drink in the lower-level bar. But if you prefer fresh air, there is outdoor seating on a raised terrace. @ 1 hr. 23 Broad St.

y 508/228-2551. $$. 0 ★★★ Whaling Museum. A can’t-miss attraction that charts the island’s whaling history. @ 1 hr. 13 Broad St. y 508/228-1894. www. nha.org. See p 9 in chapter 1.

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ak Bluffs, the Vineyard’s most bustling town, was begun as the location for revival meetings in the 19th century. Participants set up tents, which evolved over the years into cottages, decorated in the style of the time with colorful trim in the “carpenter gothic style.” With more than 300 of these “gingerbread” cottages, the town was known for years as Cottage City, until its growth necessitated a new name.

1 Ocean Park. The heart of Oak Bluffs, this large park with bandstand is where concerts and other events, like the fireworks, are held. It is surrounded by grand homes in the Victorian style. Across from the Steamship Authority pier. @ 10 min. 2 Oak Bluffs Harbor. From here, in season, you can get a ferry to Woods Hole, Falmouth Inner Harbor, Hyannis, New Bedford, and even New York City. On the strip beside the harbor, there is a row of restaurants and bars. The best food

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is at Coop de Ville, located in the Dockside Marketplace; the best drinks (accompanied by island music) at the Sand Bar & Grille, 6 Circuit Ave. Ext. The large building across the street at the head of the harbor is the Wesley Hotel, a 100-year-old inn that offers relatively reasonable rates. Fishing charters take off from the southwest end of the harbor. The Island Queen makes a 35-minute trip to Falmouth Inner Harbor four or five times a day in summer. @ 15 min.

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Oak Bluffs

On Martha’s Vineyard, horses fly! . Ave View Sea

Take a Break

3 Mocha Mott’s. For raspberry hot chocolate, peppermint mocha, or just the best iced coffee around, this is the place. Located below street level, down a flight of steps near the head of Circuit Avenue.

@ 20 min. 10 Circuit Ave. y 508/ 696-1922. $. 4 Flying Horses Carousel. Take a spin on the Flying Horses, the oldest continuously operating carousel in the country. You won’t be able to resist reaching for the brass ring to try for a free ride. It’s open Easter to Columbus Day, daily in the summer and weekends in the spring and fall. @ 15 min. Oak Bluffs Ave. (at the head of Circuit Ave.). $1.50 per ride.

5 Circuit Avenue. With shops, restaurants, and a little honky-tonk thrown in, this is the heart of Oak Bluffs. Come here to rock out (live music summer nights at the Ritz Café, Offshore Ale Company, and the Lampost), and then stroll through the cottage Camp Ground on a Sunday morning, for a musical church service in the open air Tabernacle. @ 30 min.

6 ★★★ Gingerbread Cottages & Tabernacle. The most famous buildings in Oak Bluffs are

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the over 300 cottages that make up the Camp Meeting grounds. People began coming here in 1835 for religious revival meetings. Over the decades, tents were replaced by cottages. The entire campground is lit up for Illumination Night held on a Wednesday in mid-August. In the center of the campground is the wrought-iron Tabernacle where concerts, community sings, and other events are held all summer long. Nearby Union Chapel, built in 1870, is an octagonal non-denominational church at the intersection of Kennebec and Narragansett avenues. Cottages are located just north of Circuit Avenue. @ 40 min.

y 508/693-0525. www.mvcma.org. 7 Oak Bluffs Art District. There are six hip galleries and shops here worth visiting. This relatively new arts district is anchored by the Alison Shaw Gallery (88 Dukes County Ave. y 508/696-7429. www.alisonshaw.com), where you’ll find extraordinary Vineyard photography; Dragonfly Gallery (91 Dukes County Ave. y 508/6938877. www.mvdragonfly.com), a fine-arts gallery representing 23 local artists; Periwinkle Studio (92 Dukes County Ave. y 508/6968304), displaying an array of mediums; Pik Nik Art & Apparel (99 Dukes County Ave. y 508/6931366. www.piknikmv.com), a funky

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lucindasheldon.com), featuring luminescent enameled jewelry. To get to the district, walk northwest of the Camp Ground 2 blocks along Dukes County Ave. @ 45 min. Strolls of the district when all the shops are open take place on a Sat in mid-July & mid-Aug 4–7pm. The galleries are open daily 11am–6pm late May to mid-Sept.

Take a Break

8

There’s always something interesting happening on Circuit Avenue.

selection of stuff; Red Mannequin (93 Dukes County Ave. y 508/6932858), representing island artists; and Lucinda’s Enamels (11 Vineyard Ave. y 508/696-7863. www.

Martha’s Vineyard Gourmet Café & Bakery. This bakery/deli is a perfect place to stop during the day for a pick-me-up. But it’s late night when this place really comes alive. After a night of carousing, follow the crowds to an alley behind Circuit Avenue to the back door of this establishment (off Kennebec Ave.), known as Back Door Donuts. You pay by the back door, and they bring you just-out-of-the-oven yummies. Along with chocolate-covered donuts, apple fritters are favorites. @ 10 min.

5 Post Office Sq. (just off Circuit Ave.). y 508/693-3688. $.

Looking like something out of a fairy tale, the gingerbread cottages are a much-loved Oak Bluffs landmark.

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Shopping Best Bets Best Antiquarian Bookstore

Best Antiques

★★★ Parnassus Book Service 220 Main St./Rte. 6A, Yarmouth Port (p 81)

★★ Antiques Center of Cape Cod, 243 Main St./Rte. 6A, Dennis Village (p 78)

Best Bathing Suits

Best Children’s Clothing

★★ Emily’s Beach Barn, 708 Main St./Rte. 6A, Dennis Village (p 83)

★ The Children’s Shop, 515 Main St., Chatham (p 82)

Best Handmade Candy

Best Women’s Clothing

★★ Cabot’s Candy Store, 276 Commercial St., Provincetown (p 81)

★★★ Maxwell & Co., 200 Main St., Falmouth (p 83)

Best Handmade Jewelry

Best Men’s Clothing

★★★ Ross Coppelman Goldsmith, 1439 Main St./Rte. 6A, East Dennis (p 87)

★★ Puritan Clothing Co., locations in Falmouth, Mashpee Commons, Hyannis, Chatham (p 83)

Previous page: Nautical gifts are de rigueur on the Cape and Islands, like these beautiful rugs from Nantucket Looms.

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Countryside Antiques 37 Pain d’Avignon 29 Crystal Pineapple 25 Pairpoint Glass Works 1 Eight Cousins 13 Parnassus Book Service 30 Emily’s Beach Barn 31 Puritan Clothing Co. 12 Pt. Gammon ‘g’ Green Design Center 18 Red Fish, Blue Fish 28 The Glass Studio 6 R Geering Pottery 8 Antiques Center of Cape Cod 32 Gone Chocolate 21 Ross Monomoy I. Coppelman Monomoy Goldsmith 36 Barnes & Noble 26 Hatchville Pottery 16 Sandwich Antiques Center 3 National Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium 11 Hot Chocolate Sparrow 41 Scargo Pottery 33 Wildlife Refuge AN C K Thomas E T Books & Prints 19 Birdwatchers GeneralN Store 42 T U Isaiah Soft as a Grape 9 Books by the Sea 22 Kaleidoscope Toys 14 Spyglass Antiques 38 Monomoy Pt. Stage Stop Candy 34 Booksmith 15 S O U Kemp N D Pottery 43 Booksmith/Musicsmith 40 Kindreds Antiques & Folk Art 20 Sydenstricket Glass 35 Borders Bookstore 27 Market Street Book Shop 17 Titcomb’s Bookshop 5 The Children’s Shop 44 Maxwell & Co. 10 The Weather Store 4 Christmas Tree Shops 2 McDermott Glass Studio & Gallery 7 West Barnstable Tables 24 Claire Murray 23 The Mews 39 Yellow Umbrella Books 45

Hyannis Port

Best Green Goods

Shopping for antiques is one of the great pastimes of Cape Cod.

★★★ ’g’ Green Design Center, 28 Bates Rd., Mashpee Commons (p 86)

Hyannis, W. Yarmouth, W. Dennis, Orleans (p 84)

Best Toys ★★ Kaleidoscope Toys, 208 Main St.,

Best T-Shirts ★★ Soft As A Grape, various locations Falmouth, Hyannis, Chatham (p 84)

Falmouth (p 88)

Best Souvenirs ★★ Crystal Pineapple, 1540 Main St./Rte. 6A, West

Best Gourmet Foods

Barnstable & 23 Rte. 134. S. Dennis (p 85)

★★ Angel Foods, 467 Commercial St., Provincetown (p 84)

Best Handblown Glass

Best Preppy Attire

★★★ McDermott Glass Studio & Gallery, 272 Cotuit Rd., Sandwich (p 86)

Best Bargains ★★ Christmas Tree Shops, various locations Bourne, Falmouth,

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★★★ Murray’s Toggery Shop, 62 Main St., Nantucket (p 83)

Best Scrimshaw ★★★ Edgartown Scrimshaw Gallery, 43 Main St., Edgartown (p 85)

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Bunch of Grapes 8 C.B. Stark Jewelry 5 Chilmark Chocolates 1 Chilmark Pottery 2 A T L A N T I Edgartown Books 8 Edgartown Scrimshaw O C E A N Gallery 8 Etherington Fine Arts 5 Field Gallery 2

Granary Gallery 3 Great Put On 8 Martha’s Vineyard C Glassworks 4 Midnight Farm 5 Murdick’s Fudge 7 Net Result/Larsen’s Fish Market 6 Petunia’s Shoes 8

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Cape & Islands Shopping A to Z Main St./Rte. 6A. y 508/385-6400. www.antiquecenterofcapecod.com. Map p 74.

★★ Countryside Antiques BREWSTER You’ll find items of English, Irish, French, Swedish, and Chinese provenance here. 2052 Main St./Rte. 6A. y 508/896-1444. www.countrysideantiquesinc.com. Map p 74.

Nautical antiques, like scrimshaw, can be found throughout the Cape and Islands.

Antiques ★★ Antiques Center of Cape Cod DENNIS This is the largest antiques center on Cape Cod. 243

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★ The Mews BREWSTER This store specializes in country furniture, primitives, and folk art. 2926 Main St./Rte. 6A y 508/896-4887. Map p 74. ★ Sandwich Antiques Center SANDWICH Nautical items, clocks, and decoys are among the specialties. 131 Main St./Rte. 6A. y 508/833-3600. Map p 74.

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★★ Spyglass Antiques BREWSTER This fine antiques store has a range of items, including folk art paintings, early American and European furniture, and, of course, spyglasses. 2257 Main St./Rte. 6A, Brewster (about 1 mile [1.6km] east of Rte. 124). y 508/896-4423. Map p 74.

Art ★★ Artists Association of Nantucket NANTUCKET Here

you’ll find the widest selection of work by locals. 19 Washington St.

y 508/228-0294. Map p 77. ★ Berta Walker Gallery PROVINCETOWN Berta Walker represents established talents with links to old Provincetown. 208 Bradford St. y 508/487-6411. www. bertawalker.com. Map p 76. ★ The Cove Gallery WELLFLEET Paintings and prints of well-known artists can be found here. 15 Com-

71 Main St., Vineyard Haven. y 508/ 693-9696. www.etheringtonfineart. com. Map p 77.

Current Cape & Islands Heading Shopping 1 A to Z

Ahoy, matey! I spy a telescope at Spyglass Antiques.

★★ Field Gallery MARTHA’S VINEYARD Look for the dancing sculptures of Tom Maley in a rural pasture to find this gallery across from the general store. 1050 State Rd., West Tisbury. y 508/693-5595. www.fieldgallery.com. Map p 77.

★★ Gallery Ehva PROVINCETOWN Historic Provincetown art is displayed alongside contemporary pieces at this gallery on the outskirts of town. 74 Shank Painter Rd. y 508/487-0011. www.galleryehva. com. Map p 76. ★★ Granary Gallery MARTHA’S VINEYARD Photos by Alison Shaw and Alfred Eisenstaedt are standouts. With galleries all over the Cape and Islands, you can find plenty of modern and vintage art.

mercial St. y 508/349-2530. www. covegallery.com. Map p 78.

★★ DNA Gallery PROVINCETOWN You’ll likely find something politically charged or avant-garde at this well respected gallery. 288 Bradford St. y 508/487-7700. www. dnagallery.com. Map p 76. ★★ Etherington Fine Arts VINEYARD HAVEN Representing artists of national acclaim, Mary Etherington’s selection is a giant step up from the usual seascapes.

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80 636 Old County Rd., West Tisbury. y 800/472-6279. www. granarygallery.com. Map p 77.

★★ Left Bank Gallery WELLFLEET Pottery, textiles, and collages share space with oil paintings at this reputable gallery. 25 Commercial St. y 508/349-9451. www. leftbankgallery.com. Map p 78.

Books Barnes & Noble HYANNIS You should be able to find any book you’re looking for at this chain. 769 Iyannough Rd./Rte. 132 (in the Cape Cod Mall). y 508/862-6310. Map p 74.

★★ Books By The Sea OSTERVILLE Local author readings and other events make this a lively place. 846 Main St. y 508/420-9400. Map p 74.

Booksmith FALMOUTH This small bookstore in the Falmouth Plaza has a large selection of beach reading, including mysteries. 33 Davis Straits. y 508/540-6464. Map p 74.

Booksmith/Musicsmith ORLEANS A relatively large branch of the chain, you’ll find a good selection here. In the Skaket Corners Shopping Center (Rt. 28 & Rte. 6A). y 508/255-4590. Map p 74. Crowds flock to Ben & Bill’s for their tasty chocolate treats.

You can find the perfect beach read at Yellow Umbrella Books in Chatham.

Borders Bookstore HYANNIS With a small cafe and a large music section, this chain store has lots more than books. 990 Iyannough Rd./Rte. 132. y 508/862-6363. Map p 74.

★★ Bunch of Grapes VINEYARD HAVEN This two-story bookstore is clearly a labor of love. 44 Main St., Vineyard Haven. y 508/693-2291. www.bunchofgrapes.com. Map p 77.

★ Edgartown Books EDGARTOWN Set back from the road, this shop has a large nautical section. 44 Main St., Edgartown. y 508/6278463. www.edgartownbooks.net. Map p 77.

★★ Eight Cousins FALMOUTH Children’s books and games are a specialty at this popular shop. 189 Main St. y 508/548-5548. Map p 74.

★★ Isaiah Thomas Books & Prints COTUIT This 60,000volume collection of antiquarian books includes many rare editions. 4632 Falmouth Rd./Rte. 28. y 508/ 428-2752. www.isaiahthomasbooks. com. Map p 74. ★ Market Street Book Shop MASHPEE Besides books, this shop has a large selection of magazines. 20 Steeple St. (in Mashpee Commons). y 508/539-6985. Map p 74.

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1080. www.mitchellsbookcorner. com. Map p 77.

★★ Nantucket Bookworks NANTUCKET This charming store is strong on customer service. 25 Broad St. y 508/228-4000. www.nantucket bookworks.com. Map p 77.

★ Now Voyager PROVINCETOWN New and collectible GLBT books are a specialty here. 357 Commercial St. y 508/487-0848. www. nowvoyagerbooks.com. Map p 76.

★★★ Parnassus Book Service YARMOUTH PORT The most colorful book shop on the Cape, Parnassus has teetering stacks of antiquarian classics stacked up practically to the ceiling. 220 Main St./Rte. 6A. y 508/362-6420. www. parnassusbooks.com. Map p 74.

St./Rte. 6A. y 508/888-2331. www. titcombsbookshop.com. Map p 74.

★★ Yellow Umbrella Books CHATHAM The new and used books are meticulously organized at this shop. 501 Main St. y 508/9450144. Map p 74.

Candy ★★ Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium FALMOUTH Handdipped candies showcased in a wraparound display, it’s a chocoholic’s dream come true! 209 Main St.

y 508/548-7878. www.benandbills. com. Map p 74. ★★ Cabot’s Candy Store PROVINCETOWN In business since 1927, this is the premier place for homemade taffy and fudge in P-town. 276 Commercial St. y 508/ 487-3550. www.cabotscandy.com. Map p 76.

★★ Provincetown Bookshop PROVINCETOWN A good selection of books about Provincetown, the region and local lore are in shelves near the door at this appealing shop. 246 Commercial St. y 508/487-

Chilmark Chocolates MARTHA’S VINEYARD This exquisite chocolate is made by with the help of people with special needs. 19 State Rd.

0964. www.provincetownpocket book.com. Map p 76.

★★ Gone Chocolate OSTERVILLE Tucked in an alley, this store is worth seeking out for the lovely handmade chocolates. 858 Main St.

★★★ Titcomb’s Bookshop SANDWICH Look for the statue of Ben Franklin in front for this charming

Cape & Islands Shopping A to Z

★ Mitchell’s Book Corner NANTUCKET A small room in the back is dedicated to regional and maritime titles. 54 Main St. y 508/228-

mix of new and used books. 432 Main

Aquinnah. y 508/645-3013. Map p 77.

Don’t forget to stock up on salt water taffy!

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find gourmet chocolates in creative shapes here. 334 Commercial St.

y 508/487-9100. www.thepurple feather.com. Map p 76.

★★★ Stage Stop Candy DENNIS PORT Called the best candy shop on Cape Cod, this place even has special “haute chocolate.” 411 Main St. y 508/394-1791. www.stage stopcandy.com. Map p 74. ★★ Sweet Inspiration of Nantucket NANTUCKET Satisfying

Petunia’s offers a bouquet of fashionable women’s shoes.

sweet tooths (teeth?) on Nantucket since 1981, this is artisan chocolate, carefully crafted on-site. 26 Centre St. y 508/228-5814. www.nantucket chocolatier.com. Map p 77.

y 508/420-0202. www.gone chocolate.com. Map p 74.

★★ Hot Chocolate Sparrow ORLEANS How to choose? Cases full of homemade fudge, candies, and chocolate await your decision. There are good hot (and cold) chocolate drinks too. 5 Old Colony Way. y 508/240-2230. www.hotchocolate sparrow.com. Map p 74.

Clothing ★ The Children’s Shop CHATHAM This shop caters to fashionable parents and their kids, from ages newborn to the early teens. 515 Main St. y 508/9450234. www.chathamchildrenshop. com. Map p 74.

★★ Murdick’s Fudge MARTHA’S VINEYARD Since 1887, the Murdick family has been serving fudge, candy bark, and brittle. 5 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs. y 508/627-8047. www. murdicks.com/fudge. Map p 77.

★★★ Current Vintage NANTUCKET Vintage gowns and accessories share space with special wines from small vineyards at this unique store. 4 Easy St. y 508/2285073. www.currentvintage.com. Map p 77.

★★ Purple Feather Café & Treatery PROVINCETOWN You’ll

★ Eccentricity WELLFLEET Among the clothing from Japan,

Puritan Clothing is a Cape Cod institution for smart, casual summer clothes.

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Cape & Islands Shopping A to Z

India, and Africa sold here are dramatic antique kimonos. 361 Main St.

y 508/349-7554. Map p 78. ★★ Emily’s Beach Barn DENNIS VILLAGE You’ll find the largest selection of bathing suits here, along with other summer wear. 708 Main St. y 508/385-8328. www. emilysbeachbarn.com. Map p 74.

★★ Giardelli/Antonelli Studio Showroom PROVINCETOWN

Jerry Giardelli’s unstructured clothing elements for women are in vibrant colors and inviting textures. 417 Commercial St. y 508/4873016. Map p 76.

★ Great Put On EDGARTOWN One of several terrific women’s clothing shops in Edgartown, this one is definitely fashion forward. 1 Dock St., Edgartown. y 508/6275495. www.thegreatputonmv.com. Map p 77.

★★ Karol Richardson WELLFLEET Karol has a feel for sensual fabrics and a knack for comfortable yet sophisticated fashion for women. 11 West Main St. y 508/349-6378. www. karolrichardson.com. Map p 78.

★★★ Maxwell & Co. FALMOUTH This high-priced clothier displays exquisite Italian fashions for men and women. 200 Main St. y 508/ 540-8752. www.maxwellandco.com. Map p 74.

There’s something on sale year-round at the Christmas Tree Shop.

★★★ Murray’s Toggery Shop NANTUCKET The third generation of the Murray family runs this shop that invented “Nantucket Reds,” a washed-out orange popular in Bermuda shorts. It doesn’t get more preppy than this. 62 Main St.

y 508/228-0437. www.nantucket reds.com. Map p 77.

★★ Petunia’s Shoes EDGARTOWN This colorful shop in the heart of Edgartown on Martha’s Vineyard has a terrific selection of stylish women’s shoes. 37 Main St. y 508/627-5677. Map p 77. ★★ Puritan Clothing Co. CAPE COD This long-standing Cape Cod institution specializes in a smart but

You can find just the right bauble or jewel at Crystal Pineapple.

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Food & Beverage ★★ Angel Foods PROVINCETOWN This gourmet specialty shop offers Italian specialties, among other prepared foods and beverages to go. 467 Commercial St.

y 508/487-6666. www.angelfoods. com. Map p 76.

The Islands’ whaling tradition is reflected in its art.

casual summer look for men and women. 199 Main St., Falmouth,

y 508/548-0116; 38 Market St., Mashpee Commons, y 508/4774333; 408 Main St., Hyannis, y 508/ 790-7701 573 Main St., Chatham,

y 508/945-0326. www.puritan capecod.com. Map p 74.

★★ Soft As A Grape CAPE COD The best- and highest-quality T-shirt selection on the Cape, bar none, can be found at this local chain. 251 Main St., Falmouth, y 508/4577480; Mashpee Commons, y 508/4775331; 462 Main St., Chatham, y 508/945-4988. Map p 74. ★★ Zero Main NANTUCKET Cutting-edge ladies’ clothing, shoes, and accessories, casual yet elegant, can be found here. 0 Main St.

★★★ Bartlett’s Farm NANTUCKET Just-picked strawberries, tomatoes, and other summer produce come straight from the fields to the shelves at this third-generation farm. 33 Bartlett Farm Rd. y 508/228-9403. www.bartlettsfarm.com. Map p 77. ★★★ Cisco Brewery NANTUCKET Home-brewed beer, locally made single-malt whisky and vodka, and a winery (using imported grapes) share space at this convivial establishment—called an alcohol amusem*nt park—where patrons bring a lunch and sit at picnic tables as they enjoy tastings of the products. 5 Bartlett Farm Rd. y 508/325-5929. www.ciscobrewers.com. Map p 77. ★★ Hatch’s Fish & Produce WELLFLEET This former fishing shack is where you can find freshpicked corn, home-smoked fish pâté, and lobsters from local waters, among other seasonal favorites. 310 Main St. y 508/349-2810. www. hatchsfishmarket.com. Map p 78.

y 508/228-4401. Map p 77.

★★ Net Result/Larsen’s Fish Market MARTHA’S VINEYARD

Discount Shopping ★★ Christmas Tree Shops

The Larsen family has been among the top seafood purveyors on the island for generations. 79 Beach Rd.,

VARIOUS LOCATIONS “Don’t you just love a bargain?” That’s the motto of this chain, and you’ll find many here. 5 Cranberry Hwy., Bourne, y 508/888-7010; Davis Straits (Falmouth Plaza), Falmouth, y 508/548-1414; Rte. 132, Hyannis, y 508/778-5521; Rte. 28, West Yarmouth, y 508/775-8151; Rte. 28, West Dennis, y 508/394-5557. Map p 74.

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Vineyard Haven. y 508/693-6071; & on the docks at Menemsha. www. mvseafood.com. Map p 77.

★★★ Pain d’Avignon HYANNIS This traditional French-style bakery specializes in bread, but also serves lunch and dinner at a hard-to-find spot near the airport. 15 Hinckley Rd. y 508/778-8588. www.pain davignon.com. Map p 74.

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★★ Provincetown Portuguese Bakery PROVINCETOWN Try a

inch is covered with something unusual and usually handmade.

traditional meat pie or other delicacy from this longtime establishment. Great breakfasts, too! 299

374 Main St. y 508/775-8700. www. redfishbluefish.com. Map p 74.

Commercial St. y 508/487-1803. Map p 76.

Glass ★★ The Glass Studio SANDWICH

Gifts ★★ Crystal Pineapple WEST

Michael Magyar’s hand-blown glass items, especially his “sea bubblies” series, have become much-soughtafter collectibles. 470 Main St./Rte.

BARNSTABLE For gifts and collectibles, this is the place that has the best selection. 1540 Main St./Rte.

6A. y 508/888-6681. www.capecod glass.net. Map p 74.

6A. y 508/362-1330. www.crystal pineapple.com. Map p 74.

★★★ Martha’s Vineyard Glassworks MARTHA’S VINEYARD

★★★ Edgartown Scrimshaw Gallery MARTHA’S VINEYARD The finest selection of scrimshaw in the region can be found here. 43 Main St., Edgartown. y 508/6279439. Map p 77.

Marbles, perfume bottles, and vases in eye-popping colors are among the contemporary art pieces produced by the acclaimed glass blowers at this studio. 683 State Rd., North

★★★ Jules Besch Stationers WELLFLEET A very special store, filled with the best selection of cards on Cape Cod. 15 Bank St.

Cape & Islands Shopping A to Z

Nautical gifts abound all over the Cape and Islands.

Craftsmen create new works of art at The Glass Studio in Sandwich.

y 508/349-1231. Map p 78. ★★ Midnight Farm MARTHA’S VINEYARD Singer Carly Simon’s shop features high-end gift items and furniture. 18 Water-Crowell Lane, Vineyard Haven. y 508/693-1997. www.midnightfarm.net. Map p 77. ★★ Red Fish, Blue Fish HYANNIS This small shop wins the “funky gift shop” award, hands-down. Every

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One-of-a-kind glass art can be found at Cape Cod studios.

Tisbury. y 508/693-6026. www. mvglassworks.com. Map p 77.

y 508/375-0331. www.claire

★★★ McDermott Glass Studio & Gallery SANDWICH Dave McDermott is considered one of the top glass blowers in the region. 272 Cotuit Rd. y 508/477-0705. www. mcdermottglass.com. Map p 74.

★★★ ‘g’ Green Design Center MASHPEE This store offers everything you need to convert your house into an environmentally friendly home. 28 Bates Rd., Mashpee Commons. y 508/477-7988. www.ggreendesign.com. Map p 74.

★ Pairpoint Glass Works SAGAMORE Watch artisans at work blowing glass here, continuing a tradition that goes back 100 years. 851 Sandwich Rd./Rte. 6A. y 800/899-0953. www.pairpoint.com. Map p 74. ★★ Sydenstricker Glass BREWSTER The kiln-fired process combined with concepts from the art of enameling produces unique glass plates and other pieces. 490 Main St. y 508/385-3272. www.sydenstricker. com. Map p 74.

Home Goods ★★★ Birdwatchers General Store ORLEANS This store stocks virtually every bird-watching accessory under the sun. 36 Rte. 6A.

y 800/562-1512. www.birdwatchers generalstore.com. Map p 74. ★★ Claire Murray WEST BARNSTABLE Often imitated but never matched, Claire Murray is the grand dame of hand-hooked rugs in summery patterns. 770 Main St./Rte. 6A.

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murray.com. Map p 74.

★★ Kindreds Antiques & Folk Art OSTERVILLE From traditional

to contemporary works, this shop presents a country/nautical aesthetic that fits well on the Cape. 845 Main St. y 508/420-7390. www.kindredsantiquesandfolkart. com. Map p 74.

★★★ Marine Specialties PROVINCETOWN Packed to the rafters with useful and useless stuff, this army navy-style store is one-ofa-kind. 235 Commercial St. y 508/4871730. www.ptownarmynavy.com. Map p 76. ★★★ Nantucket Looms NANTUCKET This is the place to ogle brushed mohair chaise throws and other woven items made on the looms on the second floor. 16 Federal St. y 508/228-1908. www. nantucketlooms.com. Map p 77. ★★★ Northern Lights Hammocks PROVINCETOWN Located near the shoreline, this tiny shack

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Jewelry ★★ C.B. Stark Jewelry MAR-

487-2385. www.northernlights hammocks.com. Map p 76.

THA’S VINEYARD Cheryl Stark began crafting her island motif charms in 1966. The rest is history.

★★★ Remembrances of Things Past PROVINCETOWN You must remember some of the many items found in this store from Bakelite bangles to True Confession magnets. 376 Commercial. y 508/ 487-9443. www.thingspast.com. Map p 76.

53A Main St., Vineyard Haven. y 508/693-2284. www.cbstark.com. Map p 77.

★★ Diana Kim England Goldsmiths NANTUCKET A team of

five goldsmiths makes the gold baskets and other iconic jewelry here.

★★★ Wa PROVINCETOWN A study in beiges and blacks, Wa specializes in an Asian aesthetic as it applies to home accessories. 220

56 Main St. y 508/228-3766. www. dianakimengland.com. Map p 77.

Commercial St. y 508/487-6355. www.waharmony.com. Map p 76.

ioned from lustrous 22-karat gold, the creations of Ross Coppelman tend to draw from the aesthetic of ancient civilizations. 1439 Main St./

★★★ The Weather Store SANDWICH Meteorological paraphernalia of all kinds can be found here. 146 Main St. y 800/646-1203. www. theweatherstore.com. Map p 74.

★★★ West Barnstable Tables WEST BARNSTABLE Salvaged antique lumber is turned into cupboards, tables, and chairs at this impressive studio. 2454 Meeting House Way/Rte. 149. y 508/3622676. www.westbarnstabletables. com. Map p 74.

Cape & Islands Shopping A to Z

stocks the best hammocks on the Cape. 361 Commercial St. y 508/

★★★ Ross Coppelman Goldsmith EAST DENNIS Mostly fash-

Rte. 6A. y 508/385-7900. www. rosscoppelman.com. Map p 74.

Pottery ★★ Chilmark Pottery MARTHA’S VINEYARD Taking his palette from the sea and the sky, Geoffrey Borr produces utilitarian and beautiful stoneware. 145 Field View Lane, off State Rd., West Tisbury. y 508/6936476. Map p 77.

A comfy keepsake is a pillow from Nantucket Looms.

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Scargo pottery offers a bounty of unique and beautiful ceramic wares and art objects.

★★ Hatchville Pottery EAST FALMOUTH Hollis Engley uses glazes influenced by Japanese glazes to make functional pots that are also quite striking. 494 Boxberry Hill Rd. y 508/563-1948. www. hatchvillepottery.blogspot.com. Map p 74.

★★ Kemp Pottery ORLEANS Steve Kemp’s turned and slab-built creations inspired by wildlife and seascapes provide an interesting contrast to the work of his son, Matthew, inspired by narratives of the human condition. 9 Cranberry Hwy./ Rte. 6A. y 508/255-5853. www. kemppottery.com. Map p 74.

by Harry Holl in 1952. His four daughters have all gotten into the act in the years since. 30 Dr. Lord’s Rd. S. y 508/385-3894. www. scargopottery.com. Map p 74.

Toys ★★ Kaleidoscope Toys FALMOUTH For a large and comprehensive selection of toys for every age group, this shop is top-notch. 208 Main St. y 508/548-5635. Map p 74. Artisans handcraft pottery to create a unique gift.

★★ R Geering Pottery FALMOUTH An unmistakable style marks the works of Ron Geering, whose pottery, including imposing chargers, is inspired by 17th- to 19thcentury pottery. 246 Woods Hole Rd.

y 508/457-0851. Map p 74. ★★★ Scargo Pottery DENNIS This magical place, with pottery birdhouses shaped like fanciful castles hanging from every tree, was begun

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The Cape’s Best Beaches Cahoon Marshfield Hollow Beach 14 Chapoquoit Beach MARSH FIELD 2 Coast Guard Beach 11 3A Corn Hill Beach 15 DUXBURY CorporationMillbrook Beach 7 Craigville Beach 5 Duxbury Flax3Pond Beach 8 Gray’s Beach South 6 Duxbury Head of the Meadow Beach 16 Herring Cove Beach 17 Kingston Plymouth Harbor 21 KJetties I N G S TBeach ON North Plymouth Joseph A. Sylvia State Beach 19 Lighthouse Beach 9 Plymouth Marconi Beach 12 44 Nauset Beach 10 Billington Sea Nauset Light Beach 13 Old Silver Beach 1 Great South Pd. Race Point Beach 18 Sandy Neck Beach 4 South Cape Beach 3 P L Y M O U T H South (Katama) Beach 20

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Previous page: It’s all about the beach (and a lot of other leisurely and active activities) on Cape Cod and the Islands.

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Beaches Best Bets Best for Swimming ★★★ Old Silver Beach, North Falmouth (p 95)

Best for Surfing ★★★ Cahoon Hollow Beach, Wellfleet (p 93)

Most Scenic ★★★ Coast Guard Beach, Eastham (p 93)

Best Family Beach ★★★ Sandy Neck Beach, Sandwich/ Barnstable (p 95)

Best for GLBT Beachgoers ★★★ Herring Cove Beach, Provincetown (p 94)

Best Place for a Picnic ★★★ Nauset Light Beach, Eastham (p 95) The Coast Guard station looms over the beach named for it in Eastham.

Best Beach Party ★★★ Cahoon Hollow Beach, Wellfleet (p 93)

Best for People-Watching ★★ Craigville Beach, Centerville (p 93)

Best for Communing with Nature ★★★ Head of the Meadow Beach, Truro (p 94)

Best for Kids ★★ Gray’s Beach, Yarmouth Port (p 94)

Best for Big Waves ★★★ Race Point Beach, Provincetown (p 95)

Most Secluded ★★★ South Cape Beach, Mashpee (p 96)

Most Peaceful ★★ Chapoquoit Beach, West Falmouth (p 93)

Follow the boardwalk to Grays Beach, for a scenic walk (and sunset).

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arking fees are collected on Cape Cod beaches in the summer only, late June to early September. The rest of the year, the beaches are free. There is no charge for walkers and bikers at Cape Cod beaches, except the Cape Cod National Seashore beaches, which charge $3 to walkers and bikers. ★★★ Cahoon Hollow Beach WELLFLEET This town-run beach is big with surfers. Like all oceanside beaches on the Outer Cape, there are large sand dunes bordering the beach, which is a wide-open and beautiful expanse. What makes Cahoon Hollow distinct is that there is a restaurant/nightclub, ★★★ The Beachcomber (p. 143), next to the beach parking lot. So you can go straight from your day at the beach to an evening of listening to live music and dancing. Parking costs $15 per day. Cahoon Hollow Rd. (off Rte. 6). ★★ Chapoquoit Beach WEST FALMOUTH One of the prettiest beaches in Falmouth and among the most serene, this is essentially a barrier beach between West Falmouth Harbor and Buzzards Bay. A beach parking sticker is needed in season (available also for renters and hotel guests). Chapoquoit Rd. (off Rte. 28A). ★★★ Coast Guard Beach EASTHAM With the historic white Coast Guard Station perched on a bluff nearby, this popular National Seashore beach often ranks among the top beaches in the country in nationwide surveys. It has lifeguards and restrooms. Bikers can access the beach from a bike path that starts at the Salt Pond Visitor Center on Rte. 6 that uses a scenic bridge over a marsh to access the beach. Big waves attract lots of boogie boarders. Rte. 6 to Doane Rd. to Ocean View Dr. There is a lot on

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Beaches A to Z

Beaches A to Z

Doane Rd. accessible by shuttle bus, which runs every 10 min. Parking is $15 for the day, $45 for the season.

★★ Corn Hill Beach TRURO This Cape Cod bay beach, near the hill where Pilgrims found the seed corn that ensured their survival, is open to non-residents for a fee. The enormous lot assures most visitors will get a spot. Be aware of the tide schedule. At low tide, the water is too shallow for swimming unless you venture far from shore. There are portable toilets on-site. Rte. 6 to Corn Hill Rd. Stay right & follow to beach. Parking fee $10 per day.

★★ Corporation Beach DENNIS This Cape Cod Bay beach was once a packet landing owned by a shipbuilding corporation. It has a number of amenities: lifeguards, snack bar, restrooms, children’s play area, and wheelchair-accessible boardwalk. Take Rte. 6A to Corporation Rd. & follow signs to the beach. Parking is $20 per day. ★★ Craigville Beach CENTERVILLE Known as “Muscle Beach,” this broad expanse of sand, which attracts teens and young adults, is the town of Barnstable’s most popular beach. There are lifeguards and restrooms. A neighborhood on the hill above the beach is a historic Methodist camp meeting site complete with Victorian “gingerbreadstyle” cottages. From Rte. 28, take Old Stage Rd. & follow signs to the beach. Parking costs $15 per day.

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94 ★★ Flax Pond Beach BREWSTER This large freshwater pond, surrounded by pines, has a bathhouse and offers watersports equipment rentals. Rte. 6A to Nickerson State Park. Follow signs in park. Parking is free.

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★★ Gray’s Beach YARMOUTH PORT This small beach is suitable for young children, but the best part of this site is the Bass Hole boardwalk, which offers one of the area’s most scenic walks. There’s also a picnic area with grills. Rte. 6A to Center St. Parking is free.

★★★ Head of the Meadow Beach TRURO This spot is known for its excellent surf. Sand dunes bordering the beach are about 100 feet (30.5m) tall. Half is a town beach and half is controlled by the National Seashore, which has lifeguard coverage. You’ll likely see seals on an offshore sand bar on the south end of the beach. The parking lot is connected to the beach with a short boardwalk. The Pilgrim Heights bike path also starts here. Rte. 6 to Head of the Meadow Rd. Parking costs $15 per day. ★★★ Herring Cove Beach PROVINCETOWN Facing west, this Cape Cod National Seashore beach on Cape Cod Bay is known for its spectacular sunsets; observers often applaud. Because it faces the bay, the waters are warmer than they are at the other Provincetown Beach, Race Point. There is a bathhouse with restrooms and changing rooms, and there are lifeguards. This beach is popular with same-sex couples, particularly in the southernmost section of the beach, closer to town. Rte. 6 to the end, look for beach signs. Parking costs $15 per day, $45 per season.

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★★★ Jetties Beach NANTUCKET Located a half-mile (.8km) beyond Children’s Beach, Jetties is a

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20-minute walk from town or an even shorter bike ride. The parking lot fills up early on summer weekends. It’s a family favorite for its mild waves, lifeguards, bathhouse, and restrooms. Facilities include the town tennis courts, volleyball nets, a skate park, and a playground; watersports equipment and chairs are also available to rent. There is also The Jetties, a full-service restaurant (4 Bathing Beach Road, y 508/2282279, www.thejetties.com). The Fourth of July fireworks display is held here. Every August, Jetties hosts an intense sand-castle competition. From town, take North Beach St. to the beach. Beach parking is free.

★★★ Lighthouse Beach CHATHAM Located across the street from the Coast Guard–operated Chatham Lighthouse, this is a scenic spot. Telescopes are provided so you can look across the water to North Beach and beyond to the Atlantic Ocean. There is a huge seal colony that likes to hang off on the coast of North Beach. You can also see where the ocean has broken through the barrier beach. Because of dangerous rip tides (and sharks that prey on the seals), this beach can be closed to swimming, but it’s a beautiful spot nonetheless. Main St. to Shore Rd. Take a right turn to get to the beach. Parking is free but limited to 30 min.

★★★ Marconi Beach SOUTH WELLFLEET This National Seashore property is lined with 50- to 100foot (30.5m) dunes. The bluffs are so high that the beach is in shadow in the afternoon. There are restrooms, showers, and lifeguards. Rte. 6 to Marconi Rd. Parking costs $15 per day.

★★★ Nauset Beach EAST ORLEANS Stretching southward all the way to Chatham, this 10-mile (16.1km) long barrier beach is

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Wellfleet’s Marconi Beach is known for its massive dunes.

owned by the Cape Cod National Seashore but managed by the town. It has long been one of the Cape’s gonzo beach scenes: big crowds, big surf, lots of young people. There are full facilities including snack bar serving great fried fish. A special section is reserved for surfing. There’s live music at the gazebo Mondays in July and August 7 to 9pm. Parking costs

a shallow area near a marsh. Amenities include bathhouse with toilets and showers, food concessions, and lifeguards. Sailboards are available for rent. Rte. 28 to Rte. 151 to Rte. 28A to Curley Blvd. & follow signs to beach. Parking costs $20 per day.

★★★ Nauset Light Beach EASTHAM Next to the picturesque Nauset Lighthouse (which has a bold red stripe) is this popular Cape Cod National Seashore Beach. There are lifeguards and restrooms. A nearby shady park with picnic tables is the location of the Three Sisters Lighthouses, three identical small lights.

★★★ Race Point Beach PROVINCETOWN Of all the National Seashore beaches, this one sticks the farthest out into the Atlantic Ocean. With long stretches of pristine sand, this is a popular spot. The surf is rough, and you may spot seals or even a whale offshore. This is also the site of the Old Harbor Lifesaving Museum, open daily 2:30 to 5pm in July and August. Nearby is also the Cape Cod National Seashore Visitor Center, which exhibits about the ecology here. Rte. 6 to

Rte. 6 to Doane Rd. to Ocean View Dr. Parking costs $15.

Provincetown. Follow signs to the beach. Parking costs $15 per day.

$15 (ticket also good for Skaket Beach on Cape Cod Bay).

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★★★ Old Silver Beach NORTH FALMOUTH This westernfacing beach (great for sunsets) is where beachgoers can enjoy the warmish waters of Buzzards Bay. Because of relatively calm waters, good sand, and a location close to the Bourne Bridge, this is a very popular spot, particularly with teenagers and young adults. Toddlers are often taken to the other side of the street where a sand bar creates

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★★★ Sandy Neck Beach SANDWICH This 6-mile (9.7km) stretch of barrier beach on Cape Cod Bay is one of the Cape’s prettiest and most unspoiled. With low dunes, warm bay waters, and calm surf, this is a popular spot for families with children. Off-road vehicles are allowed here when it is not the nesting season of the endangered piping plovers. It is usually closed to off-road vehicles in June and July. At

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Sandy Neck Beach is popular with families for its warm, calm waters.

the end of Sandy Neck, there is a remote cottage colony of summer houses off-the-grid and a lighthouse that marks the entrance to Barnstable Harbor. Rte 6A (east from Sandwich, to Sandy Neck Rd. Follow signs to beach). Parking costs $15 per day.

★★★ South Cape Beach MASHPEE This isolated and pristine Nantucket Sound beach, with both a town-run and a state-run section, is part of the 450-acre (182.1-hectare) South Cape Beach State Park. There are miles of hiking trails. Rte. 28 to the Mashpee rotary. Take Great Oak Rd. for 5 miles (8km) to the end. Parking costs $7 per day.

★★★ South (Katama) Beach MARTHA’S VINEYARD If you have time for only one trip to the beach, this popular 3-mile (4.8km) barrier strand boasts great wave action, sweeping dunes, and relatively ample parking. It’s also accessible by bike or shuttle bus. Lifeguards patrol some sections. Families tend to head to the left, college students to the right. From Edgartown, take Katama Rd. 4 miles (6.4km) south. Parking is free.

= Joseph A. Sylvia State Beach MARTHA’S VINEYARD

★★

Stretching a mile (.8km) and flanked by a paved bike path, this placid beach on the eastern shore of the island has views of Cape Cod across Nantucket Sound. Gentle and relatively warm waters make it ideal for swimming. The wooden drawbridge is a local landmark for jumping. In midsummer, this is a very busy beach. There is a shuttle bus stop. There are no toilets. Lifeguards are posted at the Edgartown side of the beach. Midway btw. Oak Bluffs & Edgartown on Seaview Ave. Parking is free.

South Cape beach is a great place to get away from it all.

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Fishing is a way of life for many on Cape Cod, whether it is a hobby or a vocation, for the few who have survived regulations in the region meant to prevent overfishing. New fishing rules require a license for saltwater fishing, as well as fresh water fishing. Bait and tackle stores and town halls all sell fishing licenses. Once you have a license and gear, you can surf-cast from most any beach or dock, though some are preferred. A safer bet is to take a charter fishing tour, either near shore on a so-called “party boat” or on a charter boat for a half-day voyage where you’re likely to catch bass or blues, and sometimes flounder and scup. The fishing tackle and bait is supplied. In Falmouth, you can head out on Patriot Party Boats for either “bottom fishing” close to shore, which costs $40 for an adult, $25 for children, or charter fishing at $70 for adults, $40 for children. Call y 508/548-2626 or check out www.patriotpartyboats. com for details. Out of Hyannis Harbor, there is Capt. Gary Brown on the Bass Ackwards (y 508/790-FISH [3474], or 774/487-7174). The number to call to book on a vessel that is part of the Orleans sportfishing fleet is y 508/255-9757. The fleet heads out of Rock Harbor. A 4-hour trip costs $550. On Martha’s Vineyard, you can arrange a charter on the Summer’s Lease out of Oak Bluffs (y 508/693-2880) or North Shore Charters out of Menemsha (y 508/645-2993; www.bassnblue. com). Half-days start at $500. Among the charter captains on Nantucket are Ty Anderson of Ty One On Sportfishing Charter (y 508/423-5126; www.tyone on.com), Peter Kaizer of Althea K Sportfishing Charter (y 508/ 325-2167; www.altheaksportfishing.com), Bob DeCosta of The Albacore (y 508/228-5074; www.albacorecharters.com), and Josh Eldridge of Monomoy Charters y 508/228-6867; www.monomoy chartersnantucket.com). Half-day trips start at $800.

Beaches A to Z

Best Fishing on the Cape & Islands

Fishing is both a profession and a pleasure sport on Cape Cod.

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n August 7, 1961, President John F. Kennedy signed a bill designating 27,000 acres (10,926.5 hectares) in 40 miles (64.3km) along the coast from Chatham to Provincetown as a new national park, the Cape Cod National Seashore. Along with its famous beaches, there are some great hiking and biking trails for you to explore. If you’re biking, Massachusetts state law requires children 16 and younger to wear protective helmets when operating or riding as a passenger on a bicycle.

1 ★★★ Pilgrim Spring Trail and Small Swamp Trail TRURO These two interlocking trails at Pilgrim Heights are high points of the Cape Cod National Seashore. Pilgrim Spring is where the parched Pilgrims just off the Mayflower sipped their first fresh water in months. Small Swamp is named for Thomas Small, an overly optimistic 19th-century farmer who tried to cultivate fruit trees in soil more suited to salt hay. Each trail is a .75-mile (1.2km) loop, and both trails overlook Salt Meadow, a freshwater marsh favored by hawks and osprey. Rte. 6 to Pilgrim Heights Rd.

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Follow signs to the trails. Picnic tables & toilets. Free.

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PROVINCETOWN This 1-mile (1.6km) self-guided trail gives you the lay of the land of the Province Lands,

which are dunes interspersed with beech forests. This shaded path circles a shallow freshwater pond blanketed with water lilies before heading into the woods. Among the wildlife you may see are turtles, sunning themselves beside the pond. At the edge of the trail, you can see the shifting dunes gradually encroaching on the forest, and vice versa. Rte. 6

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to Race Point Rd. Follow signs. There are picnic tables & toilets. The trail is a short drive from the Cape Cod National Seashore Province Lands Visitor Center at Race Point. Free.

3 ★★★ Pamet Trail TRURO This trail is among the more isolated parts of the Cape Cod National Seashore. You are likely not to see another person on this lovely halfmile (.8km) trail through the woods and a meadow to dunes and the beach. Start the self-guided trail at

Pamet Trail comes out on the dunes overlooking Pamet Beach. Town Cove

Orleans

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Hikes on the Islands • Sanford Farms NANTUCKET This 300-acre (121.4-hectare) conservation property is popular with runners, walkers, dog walkers, mountain bikers, and horseback riders. The trail borders Ram Pasture and The Woods. The Loop trail is 1.7 miles (2.7km) and passes Waquataquaib Pond. A 3-mile (4.8km) loop trail called The Barn brings you to Pasture Overlook, with views of Hummock Pond, Cisco Beach, Madaket Beach and, of course, the Atlantic Ocean. Follow signs from the Whaling Museum to Madaket. Take North Water St. to Cliff Rd. to Madaket Rd., which has a great bike trail. Sanford Farm is to the left off Madaket Rd. Picnic area and water fountain. Free. • Felix Neck Sanctuary MARTHA’S VINEYARD Nesting pairs of osprey and a tree swallow colony are just some of the wildlife you may see at this Mass Audubon sanctuary in Edgartown, about 2 miles (3.2km) from the center of town. Ducks and other waterfowl can be seen in the pond in the shoulder seasons. The self-guided trails from the visitor center take you through woods, meadows, and beside marshlands and Sengekontacket Pond. The orange trail leads to Waterfowl Pond, which has an observation deck with bird-sighting info. Most trails are wheelchair accessible. Off Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Rd., down a 1-mile (1.6km) dirt road. y 508/627-4850. www.massaudubon.org.

the kiosk, where maps are available. The former Coast Guard building near the trail head on the bluff is now a youth hostel. Walk across the road, and down North Pamet Road about 500 feet (152.4m) to find the trail head. The beginning of the trail passes an abandoned cranberry bog, which is now a marsh, and an old bog building. The trail comes out of a wooded area and crosses a meadow before coming to dunes overlooking the beach. Exit Rte. 6 at

at Race Point Beach, this trail runs between 5 and 7 miles (8–11.3km), depending on whether you take the spurs to Herring Cove or Race Point beaches, and it will take you up and down dunes to give you a great sense of this terrain. You’ll pass through the Beech Forest, and view several ponds. Access from Province

Pamet Roads exit. Take North Pamet Rd. to the end. (South Pamet Rd. brings you to Ballston Beach, part of the Cape Cod National Seashore but requires town sticker for parking.) No facilities. Free.

5 ★★★ Fort Hill Trail EAST-

Lands Visitor Center, also from Beech Forest, or Race Point or Herring Cove Beach (fees may apply in beach areas).

4 ★★★ Province Lands Bike

HAM In Eastham, off Rte. 6, you’ll find this trail, which has one of the best scenic views over fields and marshes to the ocean. It runs 1.25 miles (1.6 m), and it connects with the Red Maple Swamp Trail. Exit Rte.

Trail PROVINCETOWN Beginning

6 at the brown Fort Hill sign on

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Governor Prence Rd. in Eastham. Continue to parking area on left, across from the Captain Penniman House. The trail may also be accessed from Hemenway Landing, just north of Fort Hill on Rte. 6.

6 ★★ The Nauset Marsh Trail EASTHAM This 1-mile (1.6km) hike begins at the Salt Pond Visitor Center in Eastham. It winds along the edge of Salt Pond and Nauset Marsh, crosses fields, and returns to the Salt Pond Visitor Center through a recovering forest. Adjacent to Salt Pond Visitor Center amphitheater, off Rte. 6.

7 ★★ The Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail WELLFLEET Located at the Marconi Station site in Wellfleet, this trail is just over a mile (1.6km), and considered of “moderate” difficulty. It descends through a stunted oak and pine forest into a mature woodland, leads to a boardwalk that winds through the swamp, and returns via the historic “Wireless Road” (a sand road) to the starting location. At stop light, turn east off Rte. 6 into the Marconi Station Area, South Wellfleet. Follow brown signs to the Marconi Site & White Cedar Swamp.

Access the Province Lands Bike Trail from the Visitor Center.

For more information about the trails at Cape Cod National Seashore call y 508/255-3421. www.nps.gov/ caco. Beach parking $15 per day, $3 for walkers/bikers, $45 per season. Fees are collected late June to early Sept. No fees the rest of the year.

The Cape Cod National Seashore bike trails will take you through dunes, small forests, and down to the ocean.

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Kayaking Three Bays, Osterville 1 Old Shore Road

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n this watery tour, a kayaker can paddle through three connected bays comprising one of the most scenic of the Cape’s waterways to a barrier beach and out to Nantucket Sound. This trip makes a pleasing 6-mile (9.7km) loop that can be accomplished within several hours.

1 Old Shore Road in Cotuit Bay. This is the launch location for this tour. To get to the put in site from Route 28 in the town of Barnstable, take Main Street in Cotuit to Lowell Avenue to Old Shore Road. Parking is scarce, so this is a good trip for the shoulder seasons when you will have the ramp to yourself.

2 Grand Island, Osterville. The island just across the harbor from the launch site is the location Kayakers carry their boats down to the water.

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Sliding through calm waters in a kayak is one of the best ways to see the Cape Cod coast.

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of a private gated neighborhood called Oyster Harbors, and you will see some of these grand estates from the water as you circumnavigate the island. Head clockwise around the island to start the tour.

3 North Bay. The second bay you will arrive in after leaving Cotuit Bay is North Bay. You will pass Tim’s Cove and a narrow channel where Point Isabella sticks out before arriving in the bay. 4 West Bay. In order to paddle into West Bay, the third bay on the tour, you have to pass under the drawbridge that connects the mainland to Little Island, which is part of Grand Island. Since this area is a busy boat passage, you need to stay close to the edge of the channel.

5 ★★★ Dead Neck. This barrier beach with the scary name is actually the highlight of the tour. You can pull your boats onto the beach and have a picnic and go for a swim on the bay side of the beach or on the Nantucket Sound side, which is called ★ Oyster Harbors Beach, where you’ll find cooler temperatures and a little more surf. The far west side of the island is called Sampsons Island. It is a bird sanctuary where access is restricted.

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6 Seapuit River. The waterway squeezed between the barrier beach and Grand Island is called the Seapuit River. It will take you back to Cotuit Bay where the trip started. That was fun. Want to try a second loop?

Safety First It goes without saying that all kayakers must know how to swim and be outfitted with safety gear. In fact, it is against the law in Massachusetts to kayak between September and June without a life jacket and flare or whistle. No matter what time of year you go, you want to be wearing gear that you will be comfortable in if you capsize and must swim to shore. A life jacket is a must, but in chilly waters in this part of the world, I also wear a half wetsuit (short pants) in July and August and a full wetsuit the rest of the year. A nautical map of whatever area you are exploring is also a critical tool, as are extra food and water, a hat, and sunscreen.

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ou can admire that unique 7-mile-long (11.3km) barrier beach called Sandy Neck from afar with its picturesque cottage colony and lighthouse or you can paddle up to it to take a closer look. This is a great trip from a naturalist’s point of view because Sandy Neck and the 4,000-acre (1,618.7-hectare) Barnstable Great Marsh nearby are such lush habitats.

1 ★ Millway Beach. Put in at high tide, so that you can navigate the kayak through the marshes. You can unload the boat at Blish Point and then park on the far side of the harbor where a permit is not required. Barnstable Marina is a busy place, so hug the edge of the channel to let boats come and go, including whale-watching vessels headed all the way to Stellwagen Bank.

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3 ★ Scorton Creek. Depending on how high the tide is, you can explore the 4-mile-long (6.4km) Scorton Creek, which has dozens of tributaries. As the tide lowers, you will see the ground is made of salt marsh hay, which used to be used as feed for cattle. Navigating the creek can be confusing, and this is where a nautical map comes in

handy. Be careful to keep your bearings so you can find your way out.

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4 ★★★ Sandy Neck. On your way back from exploring the marshes, stop on Sandy Neck to stretch your legs. The area with the highest dune, almost directly across the harbor from your launch site is called the Dromedary. You can stop here and have a picnic. Back in the boat, hug the shoreline as you paddle past Great Thatch Island, Green Point, which sticks out into the harbor and shelters a creek, Mussel Point, on the far end of that creek, and finally the tip of Sandy Neck. From here, you can get a close look at the cottage colony and ★★ Sandy Neck Lighthouse at the point. Feel free to get out and walk around. It is all soft sand, no pavement.

5 Back to Millway. Save some energy for the trip back across the harbor to Blish Point. There is a lot of boat traffic that you will need to stay clear of and a pesky current coming from Cape Cod Bay. This crossing is perhaps the hardest part of the trip, so you’ll need to save some energy for it.

Join a group of kayakers for a tour around Barnstable Harbor.

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he Cape Cod Canal was constructed 100 years ago to provide a shorter and safer route than the trip around the peninsula. The waters off the Outer Cape were known as the grave of the Atlantic for the number of ships that wrecked off the hazardous shoals surrounding the Cape. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers operates the canal and maintains the canal bike trails.

CH

ANDWICH

Cape Cod Canal Bike Trail

T

owell est

D S

Biking along the Cape Cod Canal, you can see the railroad bridge that spans it.

Where To Find It: Both sides of the Cape Cod Canal have a paved flat bike trail—about 7 miles (11.3km) long between the Bourne and Sagamore bridges—perfect for family outings or casual riders. The trail offers views of the canal and boats passing through. To reach the trail head from the Bourne Bridge on the Cape side, take the first right off the rotary, then take a right at the T intersection for the parking area under the bridge. There is a picnic area and toilets in season. Cape Cod Canal Visitor Center. y 508/833-9678. 1 ★★★ The Railroad Bridge.

Completed in 1935, the Railroad Bridge, a vertical lift bridge, replaced an earlier bridge that had two tracks. With a center span of 544 feet (165.8m), it is one of the

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largest vertical lift bridges in the world. Passenger rail service to the Cape ended about 20 years ago, and the bridge is used these days to haul trash off-Cape.

2 ★ Aptucxet Trading Post Museum. Before the canal was dredged, the Manamet River, a popular trading route, flowed through the area. Miles Standish of Plymouth Colony was said to have recognized the importance of the trade route and was an early voice to suggest the dredging of a canal. The site that had one of the first trading posts in the New World is now Aptucxet Trading Post Museum. See p. 26.

3 ★ The Bourne Bridge. The first Bourne Bridge, a drawbridge, was built in 1911. It had trolley

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tracks, providing service from Monument Beach in Bourne to New Bedford. After the canal was widened, this bridge was completed in 1935. Its construction resulted in the hiring of more than 700 people during the Great Depression. The length of the bridge is 2,384 feet (726.6m), almost 1,000 feet (304.8m) longer than the Sagamore Bridge.

4 The Wreck of the Stephen R. Jones. On June 28, 1942, while en route from Virginia to Boston, the 354-foot-long (107.9m) coal ship Stephen R. Jones struck ground on the northern bank of the canal. The ship sank not far from the Bourne Bridge, making the Canal impassable. Officials decided to solve the problem by blowing up the submerged ship with dynamite. On July 4, 1942, a crowd gathered to watch the explosions, which continued for 28 days.

5 Mixing the Two Bays. The waters of Cape Cod Bay and Buzzards Bay came together on April 29, 1914 in a special ceremony. This was where the last earthen dike separating the two bays was located. The canal’s architect said,

“May the meeting of these waters bring happiness and prosperity to our country and save some of the misery which the waters of the Cape have caused in the past.”

6 ★ Herring Run. In 1936, the Army Corps of Engineers built a herring run along the mainland side of the canal south of the Sagamore Bridge to restore herring populations that were cut off from their spawning grounds by the canal. Herring migrate in the spring up the Herring River into Great Herring Pond in Plymouth to lay their eggs and then return to the ocean. Juvenile herring make their first trip to the ocean at the end of the summer. Herring are an important part of the food chain, and they are used for a range of products from bait to fertilizer. A ban on taking herring has been in place for several years because their numbers have fallen sharply.

7 ★ Sagamore Bridge. The Sagamore Bridge and Bourne Bridge were both built between 1933 and 1935 with an elevated design to improve the movement of cars above and boats below. The bridge

The Cape Cod Canal bikepath runs right behind the Aptucxet Trading Post Museum in Bourne Village.

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The Cape is a golfing mecca of sorts, and duffers in the know are well aware there are some very special courses here. There are several standouts for unique Cape Cod scenery. The 9-hole ★★ Cotuit High Grounds Country Club is an especially scenic course in the town of Barnstable, not far from the Mashpee town line. For tee times, call y 508/428-9863 or check out www.cotuithighground.com. Greens fees are $20, with reduced fees for seniors and after 4pm. The championship 18-hole ★★★ Cranberry Valley Golf Course is considered one of the top courses on the Cape. To get a tee time, call y 508/430-5234, or check out www.cranberrygolfcourse.com. Greens fees for non-members range from $34 to $64, depending on the season. The oldest golf course on Cape Cod is the 1892 Scottish-style 9-hole ★★★ Highland Links in North Truro (y 508/487-9201; www.truro-ma.gov), which shares a lofty and windblown bluff with the 1853 Highland Light. You may be distracted by the views of the Atlantic surf crashing onto the beaches below the course. Greens fees at Highland Links, which is part of the Cape Cod National Seashore, are $33 for 9 holes, $55 for 18. On Martha’s Vineyard, there are the 18-hole ★★★ Farm Neck Golf Club in Oak Bluffs (y 508/693-3057; www.farmneck.net, greens fees $30–$45) and the 9-hole Mink Meadows Golf Course in Vineyard Haven (y 508/693-0600; www.minkmeadowsgc.com, greens fees $35–$55). On Nantucket, the action is at the 18-hole ★★★ Miacomet Golf Course (y 508/325-0333; www.miacometgolf.com), which costs $125 for 18 holes. A less expensive round can be found at the 9-hole Siasconset Golf Club, which charges $35 per round.

has recently undergone repairs that necessitated narrowing the bridge to one lane. The resulting traffic has led some to suggest it is time to build a third bridge.

tanker docked at the plant unloading oil. One of those tankers ran aground in the canal several years ago and spilled about 100,000 gallons of oil into Buzzards Bay.

8 Canal Electric Plant. To the west of Sandwich Marina is a power plant that generates most of its electricity by burning crude oil. Because of the pollution from the plant, it has been suggested that it could be removed if the region relied on wind power for electricity. It is not uncommon to see a large

9 ★ Scusset Beach Breakwater. In May of 1909, The Boston,

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Cape Cod Canal Bike Trail

Best Golfing Cape & Islands

Cape Cod & New York Canal Company began work on the canal. Large granite boulders from Maine were placed at the east end of the Canal to help control sediment build up across the canal entrance. The length of the breakwater is 3,000 feet (914.4m).

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Cape Cod Rail Trail 1 Trail Head, Route 134, South Dennis

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he 28-mile (45km) Cape Cod Rail Trail is one of New England’s longest and most popular bike paths. Once a bed of the Penn Central Railroad, the trail is relatively flat and straight. If you want to venture away from the coast and see some of the Cape’s countryside without dealing with cars, this is one way to do it.

The Cape Cod Rail Trail was once the bed of a train line.

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Cape Cod Rail Trail

OD NAL HORE

ham

You can cool off at Marconi Beach during your trip along the Cape Cod Rail Trail.

1 Trail Head at Route 134 in

4 ★★★ Orleans. The trail contin-

South Dennis. The trail starts at a

ues straight through Orleans. Near the Orleans rotary, you can stop at Mandy’s Cape Creamery (next to Wendy’s, 4 Canal Rd., y 508/2401618) for a sandwich or a frozen yogurt treat. You can explore Main Street in Orleans or continue on.

parking lot along busy Route 134, which is about .5-mile (.8km) from the ramp from exit 9 off Route 6. The parking lot is past the Patriot’s Square shopping plaza and Cumberland Farms. You may want to decide in advance how far you are going and if you don’t want to double back, have one person from your group park a car at the end spot. From the trail head in South Dennis to the Pleasant Lake General Store in Harwich is 5.9 miles (9.5km). About halfway to the store, you’ll get to a bike rotary, where you can take a 7.5-mile (12km) side trip to Chatham or continue on to Harwich.

2 ★ Harwich. You’ll travel alongside Route 124, passing farmland. The Harwich bike bridge takes you over Route 6 between exits 9 and 10. The structure serves to link between Headwaters Drive and Queen Anne Road. ★ Pleasant Lake General Store (Pleasant Lake Ave., Harwich, y 508/432-5305) is a good place to stop for picnic supplies. From the general store to Nickerson State park is 5.7 miles (9.2km).

3 ★★★ Brewster. Peddle through Brewster, passing Seymour, Long, and Hinckleys ponds. Once you hit ★★★ Nickerson State Park, where there are restrooms, you can explore the ponds and a side route trail or continue on to Orleans. To Orleans

To Marconi Beach is 6 miles (9.7km).

5 ★★★ Salt Pond Visitor Center, Eastham. There are restrooms here and interesting exhibits. If you want to get off your bike and walk around a bit, you can stroll the 1.6-mile (2.6km) Nauset Marsh Trail. You can also jump on a bike path to Coast Guard Beach (considered one of the Cape’s best) from here. To Marconi Beach is 3 miles (4.8km).

6 ★★★ Marconi Beach, Wellfleet. You’ll pass close to Marconi Beach. There are restrooms here. You can check it out or continue on the couple of miles to the trail end.

7 ★★ Lecount’s Hollow Road, South Wellfleet. The trail ends (or starts) here near the South Wellfleet General Store, where you can stock up on snacks. Just down the road is Lecount’s Hollow Beach, a very pretty Cape Cod National Seashore Beach. Travelling through Wellfleet in season is one of the prettiest parts of the trail. You’ll see purple wildflowers, flowering dogwood, and small maples where red-winged blackbirds and goldfinches nest.

Center is about 3 miles (4.8km).

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Nantucket Detours

India St. . Liberty St Gardner St.

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Maria Mitchell Observatory

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4 Jethro Coffin House

Union St.

Main St.

2 African-American Meeting House 3 Old Mill

t. in S Ma

Fair St.

Ct. Rays

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. Quince St . Hussey St

Nantucket Lightship 1Steamboat Wharf Basket Museum Easy St.

4 Broad St.

Gay St.

Whaling Museum

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Ash St.

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bike ride around Nantucket is not only a great way to tour the island, but also will give you an opportunity to see some of the more remote historic sites and museums. On the way to ’Sconset, Madaket, and Surfside by means of the island’s excellent bike paths, you can detour to these unique sites (making this sort of a “untour”!) From Main Street, take Union Street a few blocks south to the museum if you’re heading for a trail south of town.

1 Nantucket Lightship Basket Museum. The exhibits here explain the history of the famous Lightship Baskets, a trade unique to the island that began around 1850. The traditional baskets were tightly woven rattan with a mahogany base. The top is typically an elaborate scrimshaw piece. There are historic and contemporary baskets on display, as well as demonstrations and lectures by basket makers,

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weavers, historians, scrimshanders, and restoration experts. @ 20 min. 49 Union St. y 508/228-1177. www. nantucketlightshipbasketmuseum. org. Admission $4 adults. Open late May to mid-Oct Tues–Sat 10am–4pm.

A detour on the way to Surfside Beach: Take Main Street to Orange Street to York Street.

2 African-American Meeting House. Built in the 1820s, this historic landmark was restored in 1999. Available at the site is a brochure that gives a self-guided walking tour

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Nantucket Detours

of the neighborhood, pointing out heritage sites significant to the African-American community in the 18th and 19th centuries on Nantucket.

@ 5 min. (longer for walking tour). 29 York St. y 508/228-9833. Continue on York Street to West York Street to Prospect Street.

uth

3 Old Mill. Located at the inter-

Commercial Wharf

antucket

Harbor

section of Prospect and West York streets, the Old Mill, built in 1746, is the oldest windmill in America still in operation. Used as a gristmill until 1892, the original hand-crafted wooden gears are still used to grind corn. y 508/228-1894. Mill Hill &

Nantucket’s Old Mill is the oldest in the U.S. still in operation.

t. nS

Prospect sts.

A detour on the way to Madaket: Take Main St. to Centre St. to West Chester St. & walk up the hill to the house.

St. ion

4 Jethro Coffin House, the island’s oldest house, is worth a visit (p 35). 6 Sunset Lane (off West Chester St.).

When you’re coming back from a ride to ‘Sconset, take the Polpis Road path, which passes by this museum.

5 Nantucket Shipwreck and Lifesaving Museum. Housed in a replica of the Nantucket Lifesaving Station (the original serves as the island’s youth hostel), the museum has loads of interesting photos and exhibits, including one of the last remaining Massachusetts Humane Society surf boats and its horse-drawn carriage.158 Polpis Rd. (3 miles [4.8km] from town). y 508/ 228-1885. www.nantucketlifesaving museum.com. Admission $5 adults, $3 children. Open mid-June to midOct 10am–4pm.

Bikers can get their bearings at the Compass Rose in Nantucket.

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Shining Sea Bikeway 1 County Road, North Falmouth 1

2 Cranberry bogs 4 West Falmouth Harbor

NORTH FALMOUTH

5 West Falmouth Market 6 Chapoquoit Beach 7 Great Sippewissett Marsh 8 Goodwill Park

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he newly expanded Shining Sea Bikeway, which stretches for 12 miles (19.3km) along the west side of town from North Falmouth to Woods Hole, is already a top regional attraction. If you bike the entire route, you’ll pass cranberry bogs, a historic farm, the Great Sippewissett Marsh, which is a bird-watcher’s dream, a Buzzards Bay beach along Surf Drive, and finally the atmospheric fishing village of Woods Hole. A relatively non-strenuous ride, the trail was built on a former railroad right-of-way, and is level nearly the entire distance.

From the Bourne Bridge, take Rte. 28 toward Falmouth to the Rte. 151 exit (about 5 miles [8km] from the bridge). Continue on Rte. 151 toward North Falmouth. The bike path parking lot is a couple hundred yards down the road on the right after the traffic light.

1 County Road in North Falmouth. There is plenty of parking. Hop on your bike and travel south for about 2 miles (1.6km).

2 Cranberry bogs. The tart red berries have been harvested each fall for more than a century on Cape Cod. Continue about a half-mile

Mares Pd.

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(.8km) farther.

3 ★ Bourne Farm. This local historic site features a pond and an 18th-century house and barn. The

ws Pd.

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cattle tunnel is a main trail crossing to 49 acres (19.8 hectares) owned by Salt Pond Bird Areas Sanctuaries. Continue for another half-mile (.8km).

4 ★ West Falmouth Harbor. The trail passes within a half-block of the harbor, where you can look out over Buzzards Bay, and stop for a swim at the nearby beach (if the water’s not too cold for you!). Return to Rte. 28A for your next stop.

5

West Falmouth Market, at 623 Rte. 28A (y 508/548-1139). This local grocery offers picnic supplies, as well as deli sandwiches and homemade pizza, and locally sourced products like fresh bread and in-season fresh cranberries. When you’ve finished your break, return to the trail and head south about another quarter-mile (.4km).

6 ★★ Chapoquoit Beach. In West Falmouth, one of the town’s prettiest public beaches, and among the most serene, is a barrier beach between West Falmouth Harbor and Buzzards Bay. Follow the trail south & inland.

7 ★★★ Great Sippewissett

D

Marsh. Keep an eye out for osprey, which dive for fish in this 140-acre (56.7-hectare) salt marsh, an important habitat for the Buzzards Bay ecosystem. Continue about 2 miles (3.2km) south, where the bike path is intersected by a crosswalk to help

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Batter Up: The Boys of Summer Nothing says summer on Cape Cod like attending a Cape Cod Baseball League game. There are 10 teams playing in two leagues. Teams are in Wareham (just over the bridge), Bourne, Falmouth, Cotuit, Hyannis, Yarmouth, Harwich, Chatham, Brewster, and Orleans. The ballparks are typically in the center of town, walking distance to Main Street with snack bars and toilets. A couple are particularly scenic: Cotuit and Chatham. Players are college hotshots and Major League scouts are at most games. There are four or five games almost every afternoon for the 6 summer weeks in June and July that the league plays. Admission is free, though they pass a hat for donations. For league schedule, check out www.capecodbaseball.org. Summer baseball on Cape Cod has a long and storied history.

bikers cross Palmer Ave/Rte. 28 (which can be very busy).

8 Goodwill Park. You can take a freshwater swim here in Grew’s Pond. Surrounded by town forest, the pond is a favorite spot for families with small children. Keep heading south, looking for a landmark a few miles down: a found art sculpture of bicycles by a local artist as the path crosses Depot Avenue. If you want to visit Main Street, Falmouth, this is the place to head off the path. Return to the bike path and keep heading south.

9 ★★ Trunk River Beach. This is a pebbly beach about halfway to Woods Hole (11⁄2 miles [2.4km]), where you’ll find this great place to

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take a dip and cool off. The Trunk River (really a stream) flows back and forth here under a little bridge bringing the waters of Vineyard Sound into brackish Oyster Pond and vice versa. Head south another 11⁄2 miles (2.4km) to the end of the trail in Woods Hole.

★★ The Captain Kidd Bar. A classic New England pub at 77 Water St. (y 508/548-8563; www. thecaptainkidd.com), the Captain Kidd is a great place to have a snack in the scenic fishing village of Woods Hole. There’s a tavern menu serving appetizers, salads, sandwiches, and fried seafood (of course!).

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Cape Cod Dining Abba 21Marshfield Landfall Restaurant 3 Brant Rock MARSH Aqua Grille 4F I E L D Moonakis Café 6 Green Harbor Bee-Hive Tavern 5 Norabella 11 3A Bleu 7 Ocean House 12 DUXBURY The BrambleMillbrook Inn & Phusion Grille 2 Restaurant Red Nun Bar & Grill 16 Duxbury 18 3 Brewster Fish House 19 Regatta of Cotuit 9 South Buca’s TuscanDuxbury Roadhouse 14 twenty-eight Atlantic 15 The Chart Room 1 Villa Roma 13 Chatham Squire 17 Wicked Fire Kissed Pizza 8 Kingston Plymouth Harbor 20 Wicked Oyster 24 KChillingsworth INGSTON North Plymouth Inaho 10 Winslow Tavern 23 Plymouth Land Ho! 22 44

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Previous page: Eating fresh seafood on the water is one of the joys of Cape Cod.

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Dining Best Bets Best Diner

★★★ Home Port $$$ 512 North St., Menemsha, Martha’s Vineyard (p 135)

★★ Art Cliff Diner $ 39 Beach Rd., Vineyard Haven, Martha’s Vineyard (p 135)

Best Waterfront

Best Sandwiches

★★★ Ocean House $$$ 3 Chase Ave., Dennisport (p 127)

★★ Box Lunch $ various locations (p 129)

Best Clam Chowder

Best For Families

★★ Chatham Squire $$ 487 Main St., Chatham (p 129)

★★ Captain Frosty’s $ 219 Rte. 6A, Dennis (p 136)

Best Ice Cream

Best Burgers

★★ Four Seas Ice Cream $ 360 S. Main St., Centerville (p 134)

★★ Red Nun Bar & Grill $ 746 Main St., Chatham (p 129)

Best Seafood

Best When Money Is No Object

★★★ Straight Wharf Restaurant $$$ 6 Harbor Square, Nantucket (p 133)

★★★ twenty-eight Atlantic $$$$ 2173 Rte. 28, Harwich (p 129)

Best Raw Bar

★★ The Red Inn $$$$ 15 Commercial St., Provincetown (p 130)

★★ The Naked Oyster Bistro & Raw Bar $$$ 410 Main St., Hyannis (p 127)

Best Clam Shack ★★ Moby Dick’s Restaurant $$ 3225 Rte. 6, Wellfleet (p 136)

Best Lobster ★★★ The Galley $$$$ 54 Jefferson Ave., Nantucket (p 132)

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Best Italian ★★★ Osteria La Civetta $$ 133 Main St., Falmouth (p 126)

Best Mexican ★★ Lorraine’s $$ 133 Commercial St., Provincetown (p 130)

Best Romantic ★★★ Devon’s $$ 4011⁄2 Commercial St., Provincetown (p 130)

The Clam Shack in Falmouth on the harbor is a favorite stop for fresh fried seafood.

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Upper Cape ★★ Aqua Grille SANDWICH NEW

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AMERICAN Overlooking Sandwich’s picturesque marina, this dining spot specializes in fish, with grilled or fried the obvious choice.

rf

Straight Wharf

Old South Wharf

Commercial Wharf

14 Gallo Rd. (next to Sandwich Marina). y 508/888-8889. Entrees $10–$24. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily; closed Nov to late Apr. Map p 118.

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★★ Bee-Hive Tavern SANDWICH TAVERN This modern-day tavern offers atmosphere plus wellpriced standards like burgers, sandwiches, and salads. 406 Rte. 6A. y 508/833-1184. Entrees $8–$16. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 118. ★★ Bleu MASHPEE FRENCH BISTRO Authentic French dishes like escargots and lapin au moutard await at this sophisticated venue. 10 Market St. (Mashpee Commons). y 508/539-7907. Entrees $16–$29. AE, MV, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 118. ★★ The Chart Room CATAUMET SEAFOOD Great sunset views over Red Brook Harbor and fresh fish are the reason people come to this restaurant at Kingman Marina. 1 Ship-

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★★★ The Glass Onion FALMOUTH NEW AMERICAN This upscale fine-dining establishment features locally sourced foods, like Barnstable little neck clams, and professional service in a charming setting. 37 North Main St. (in the

Dining A to Z

Dining A to Z

Queens Buyway). y 508/540-3730. Entrees $16–$33. AE, MC, V. Dinner Mon–Sat. Map p 121.

★★★ La Cucina Sul Mare FALMOUTH SOUTHERN ITALIAN Hearty Italian fare is featured at this charming family-owned restaurant on Main Street. 237 Main St. y 508/ 548-5600. Entrees $15–$25. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 121.

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★★ Landfall Restaurant WOODS HOLE SEAFOOD A terrific harbor setting and decor of colorful salvage distinguishes this landmark seafood spot. Luscombe Ave. y 508/548-1758. Entrees $9–$28. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Closed Nov to mid-Apr. Map p 118.

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★★ Moonakis Café WAQUOIT DINER This popular place serves the best breakfast in Check out the specials at Falmouth’s Osteria La Civetta.

yard Lane (off Shore Rd.). y 508/ 563-5350. Entrees $14–$28. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Closed Oct to mid-May. Map p 118.

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★★ The Flying Bridge FALMOUTH AMERICAN Seafood is the specialty at this harborfront megarestaurant. Deckside seating is best. 220 Scranton Ave. (on Falmouth Inner Harbor). y 508/548-2700. Entrees $10–$28. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Closed Nov to mid-Apr. Map p 121.

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town, with a large list of omelets and pancake specials each morning. 460 Waquoit Hwy./Rte. 28. y 508/ 457-9630. All items under $15. MC, V. Breakfast & lunch daily. Map p 118.

★★ Mezza FALMOUTH MEDITERRANEAN This place has the best thin-crust brick oven pizza in town and delicious pasta and Middle Eastern–inspired dishes. 75 Davis Straits/Rte. 28. y 508/540-6992. Entrees $15–$25. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 121.

★★★ Osteria La Civetta FALMOUTH NORTHERN ITALIAN European-style dining and service are featured at this excellent restaurant where homemade pasta is the specialty. 133 Main St. y 508/540-1616. Entrees $15–$26. MC, V. Lunch Wed– Sat & dinner nightly. Map p 121. ★★ Peking Palace FALMOUTH ASIAN Serving Chinese, Japanese and Thai food, this established restaurant offers many unique dishes, especially on the specials board. 452 Main St. y 508/540-8204. Entrees $7–$18. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 121. ★★★ Phusion Grille WOODS HOLE INTERNATIONAL Located on Eel Pond and with floor-to-ceiling windows, this is an appealing

atmosphere to sample creative, mostly Asian and Hawaiian-inspired, cuisine featuring fresh fish. 71 Water St. y 508/457-3100. Entrees $21– $27. AE, MC, V. Breakfast Sat & Sun; lunch & dinner daily. Closed Oct to mid-May. Map p 118.

★★ RoöBar FALMOUTH NEW AMERICAN Creative cuisine in an arty urban setting with brick-oven pizzas a specialty. 285 Main St. y 508/ 548-8600. Entrees $11–$26. AE, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Map p 121.

★★ Wicked Fire Kissed Pizza MASHPEE PIZZA Gourmet Neapolitan-style stone-oven pizzas are served in a stylish setting with a large bar. 680 Falmouth Rd. y 508/ 477-7422. Entrees $9–$26. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 118.

Mid-Cape ★★ Alberto’s Ristorante HYANNIS NORTHERN ITALIAN Consistency when it comes to very good food and service is the hallmark at this elegant restaurant. 360 Main St.

y 508/778-1770. Entrees $11–$27. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 121.

★★ Barolo Italian Steakhouse HYANNIS ITALIAN With an oldworld Italian atmosphere, this romantic place delivers hearty

RoöBar features an excellent menu as well as all kinds of beverages.

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127 157 Rte. 6A. y 508/362-5522. Entrees $13–$23. MC, V. Mon–Sat dinner. Map p 118.

★★ The Naked Oyster Bistro & Raw Bar HYANNIS SEAFOOD

Dining A to Z

cottage is the Cape’s best sushi bar.

Provender includes local shellfish from the owner’s own aquaculture operation in Barnstable Harbor at this excellent and very hip venue. 410 Main St. y 508/778-6500. Entrees $24–$35. AE, MC, V. Tues–Fri & Sun lunch; Tues–Sun dinner. Map p 121.

Italian cuisine and Angus steaks with a contemporary New American flair. 297 North St. y 508/778-4200.

★★ Norabella WEST DENNIS SOUTHERN ITALIAN This chefowned establishment is a slice of olde Cape Cod, when chefs would come out to check on diners and meals were homemade start to finish. 702 Rte. 28. y 508/398-6672.

Entrees $16–$36. AE, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Map p 121.

Entrees $15–$22. MC, V. Dinner nightly. Map p 118.

Alberto’s Ristorante offers Italian specialties and alfresco dining.

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★ Baxter’s Boat House HYANNIS CLAM SHACK This Hyannis harborfront shack is the place to go for fried clams and the like. 177 Pleasant St. y 508/775-7040. Entrees $9–$15. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Closed mid-Oct to early May. Map p 121. ★★ Black Cat Tavern HYANNIS SEAFOOD The top harborfront restaurant in Hyannis, this casual spot focuses on seafood, burgers, and steaks, as well as piano bar entertainment most nights in season. 165

★★★ Ocean House DENNIS PORT NEW AMERICAN Set on the beach overlooking Nantucket Sound, and styling itself a New American Bistro and Bar, this fine-dining venue has always had a stellar reputation for getting local seafood preparations just right. 3 Chase Ave. (at Depot St.). y 508/394-0700. Entrees $22–$34. MC, V. Dinner Tues–Sun. Map p 118. The oysters are naked (except for the sauce) at Hyannis’s Naked Oyster Bistro & Raw Bar.

Ocean St. y 508/778-1233. Entrees $17–$31. AE, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 121.

★★ Eclectic Café HYANNIS NEW AMERICAN Hidden down an alley, this is a tiny gem of a restaurant featuring creative dishes involving fresh-caught seafood. 606 Main St. y 508/771-7187. Entrees $19–$28. AE, DISC, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Map p 121. ★★ Inaho YARMOUTH PORT JAPANESE Inside this Cape Cod–style

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Its genteel, period setting adds to the experience at the Bramble Inn & Restaurant.

★★ The Paddock HYANNIS CONTINENTAL With a solid reputation for good food and service, this is a sure bet for special occasions or early dinners before a night at the Melody Tent next door. 20 Scudder Ave. (at the West End Rotary). y 508/ 775-7677. Entrees $17–$28. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Closed Nov–Mar. Map p 121.

★★★ Regatta of Cotuit COTUIT NEW AMERICAN This fine-dining restaurant set in a stately 1790 home has long been one of the finest restaurants on the Cape. Now it also has a less expensive “tap room” menu. 4631 Rte. 28 (near Rte. 130). y 508/428-5715. Entrees $24– $34; tap menu $10–$27. AE, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Map p 118.

★★★ Roadhouse Café HYANNIS NEW AMERICAN/NORTHERN ITALIAN American standards like oysters Rockefeller and Italian cooking, heavy on the garlic, are the hallmarks here. 488 South St. y 508/775-2386. Entrees $15–$26. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Map p 121.

Lower Cape ★★★ Abba ORLEANS INTERNATIONAL One of the best restaurants on the Lower Cape, this is where to go for fusion cuisine, a little Middle Eastern, a little European, a

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little New American, plus some Thai and New England thrown in. 90 Old Colony Way (at West Rd.). y 508/ 255-8144. Entrees $18–$27. AE, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Map p 118.

★★★ The Bramble Inn & Restaurant BREWSTER NEW AMERICAN Often named as one of the best restaurants on Cape Cod and set in an antique home, this restaurant continues to impress with food that combines Mediterranean influences with exotic touches. 2019 Main St./Rte. 6A (1⁄2 mile [.8km] east of Rte. 124). y 508/896-7644. $20– $37. AE, DISC, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Closed Jan–Mar. Map p 118. ★★ Brewster Fish House BREWSTER NEW AMERICAN This intimate eatery, a nondescript roadhouse on Route 6A, is famous for its inspired way with fresh locally caught seafood. 2208 Main St./Rte. 6A (exit 12 off Rte. 6). Entrees $17–$29. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 118. ★★ Buca’s Tuscan Roadhouse HARWICH NORTHERN ITALIAN With an atmosphere that’s somehow romantic and festive at the same time, this place serves homemade pastas, off-the-boat fish, and tender cuts of meat, all in an authentic Italian style. 4 Depot Rd. (just off Rte. 28, near Chatham border). y 508/4326900. Entrees $18–$25. AE, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Map p 118.

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★★★ Chillingsworth BREWSTER FRENCH A longtime contender for title of fanciest restaurant on the Cape, this is where to go for a sevencourse table d’hote menu that will challenge the most shameless gourmands. A bistro offers lighter fare. 2449 Main St./Rte. 6A (From Rte. 6, take exit 10 & a right on 6A for 11⁄2 miles [2.4km]). Fixed price $60–$75, bistro $17–$36. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 118. ★ Land Ho! ORLEANS TAVERN A longtime hit with locals, this pub offers good food, easy on the budget. Rte. 6A & Cove Rd. y 508/2555165. Entrees $9–$22. AE, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 118.

★ Red Nun Bar & Grill CHATHAM PUB This is the place for comfort food: Mama’s meatloaf and cheeseburgers. 746 Main St. (next to Monomoy Theater). y 508/348-0469. All Fried clams are one of the “must have” dining experiences on Cape Cod.

Dining A to Z

★ Chatham Squire CHATHAM TAVERN The unofficial center of Chatham, this is where generations of summer residents mix with year-rounders, fishermen, and landed gentry to have the best clam chowder in these parts. 487 Main St. y 508/945-0945. $11–$23. AE, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 118.

Everyone turns up at the Chatham Squire for clam chowder and other New England dishes.

under $15. AE, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 118.

★★★ twenty-eight Atlantic HARWICH NEW AMERICAN This elegant and expensive restaurant at the Wequassett Inn is a place to come for special occasions. This is fine dining to the hilt, amuse bouche and all. A casual poolside Outer Bar is also on the property. 2173 Rte. 28.

y 508/430-3000. Entrees $21–$44. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Closed Dec to mid-Apr. Map p 118.

★ Villa Roma HARWICH ITALIAN An old-style roadhouse with nothing fancy Italian fare. 278 Rte. 28. y 508/ 432-6868. Entrees $10–$20. AE, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Map p 118.

Outer Cape ★ Box Lunch VARIOUS LOCATIONS SANDWICH SHOP Home of the pita “rollwiches,” good and fast picnic food. Main sts. in Falmouth, Hyannis, Eastham, Wellfleet, Provincetown. Under $10. MC, V. Lunch daily.

★★ Café Edwidge PROVINCETOWN NEW AMERICAN Wooden booths, rafters, and close-set tables create an intimate atmosphere here where most specialties of the house come from the waters off-shore. 333 Commercial St. y 508/487-2008.

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y 508/487-1500. Entrees $18–$29. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Sun brunch. Map p 122.

★★ Napi’s PROVINCETOWN INTERNATIONAL A rococo-hippie decor complements the far-out cuisine: Chinese dumplings, Syrian falafel, and flambéed feta shrimp, to name a few. 7 Freeman St. (at Bradford St. near town hall). y 800/571-6274. Entrees $17–$33. DISC, MC, V. Dinner nightly, lunch Oct–Apr. Map p 122. Step up to the bar at the Red Nun for comfort food and a brew.

Entrees $18–$29. MC, V. Breakfast & dinner daily. Map p 122.

★★ Chach PROVINCETOWN DINER A diner run by a chef means everything is brought up a notch or two. 73 Shank Painter Rd. y 508/4871530. Under $15. No credit cards. Breakfast & lunch daily. Closed Mar. Map p 122. ★★★ Devon’s PROVINCETOWN NEW AMERICAN A former boat shack where Devon—your chef, waiter, host, and sometime dishwasher—does everything right, especially with the elegantly prepared food. 4011⁄2 Commercial St. y 508/487-4773. Entrees $18–$25. DISC, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Closed Nov–Apr. Map p 122.

★★ The Red Inn PROVINCETOWN NEW AMERICAN Nothing beats the view of the restaurant seemingly at the end of the earth. Start with a glass of champagne and end with a soufflé. 15 Commercial St. (far west end). y 508/487-7334. Entrees $26– $46. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Closed Nov–Apr. Map p 122. ★★★ Ross’ Grill PROVINCETOWN NEW AMERICAN BISTRO The place to go for an intimate dinner, this second-floor bistro has large windows overlooking the harbor and a menu with highlights like steak frites and shellfish risotto. 237 Commercial St. y 508/487-8878. Entrees $22–$40. Lunch & dinner Thurs–Mon. Map p 122. The tasty “rollwich” at Box Lunch is a cheap and delicious choice for a quick meal.

★★ Lorraine’s PROVINCETOWN MEXICAN Even those who shy away from Mexican restaurants should try Lorraine’s for novel taste sensations, like sea scallops sautéed with tomatillos. 133 Commercial St. (far west end). y 508/487-6074. Entrees $17–$26. DISC, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Map p 122. ★★ The Mews Restaurant & Café PROVINCETOWN NEW AMERI-

CAN You can count on fine food and suave service at this beachfront restaurant, a perennial favorite. 429 Commercial St. (east end).

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★★ Wicked Oyster WELLFLEET SEAFOOD A cool and casual yearround restaurant serving three squares, from omelets, to burgers, to spring risotto and grilled tenderloin. 50 Main St. (just off Rte. 6).

y 508/349-3455. Entrees $15–$30. MC, V. Breakfast & dinner daily. Lunch off season only. Map p 118.

★★ Winslow Tavern WELLFLEET BISTRO This upscale bistro offers summertime treats, such as grilled lobster and bistro classics like steak frites. 316 Main St. y 508/3496450. Entrees $13–$23. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 118.

Nantucket ★★ American Seasons NANTUCKET REGIONAL AMERICAN This romantic little restaurant features regional food styles like New England, Pacific Coast, Wild West, or Down South, with an emphasis on sustainable and locavore-type cuisine. 80 Centre St. y 508/228-8768. Entrees $34–$56. AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Closed Nov–Apr. Map p 124.

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★ Arno’s NANTUCKET NEW AMERICAN This casual restaurant packs surprising style with preparations involving steaks, fresh fish, and pasta a specialty. 41 Main St. y 508/ 228-7001. Entrees $9–$17. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Closed Jan–Mar. Map p 124. ★★★ Black-Eyed Susan’s NANTUCKET INTERNATIONAL This funky diner is the place to enjoy surprising food like spicy Thai fish cake

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Dining A to Z

★★ Victor’s PROVINCETOWN NEW AMERICAN/TAPAS A contemporary and stylish atmosphere adds to the ambiance of the town’s only tapas joint. Try the lobster spring rolls for an intense treat. 175 Bradford St. (at W. Vine St.). y 508/487-1777. Tapas $9–$21. MC, V. Dinner nightly; brunch Sat–Sun. Map p 122.

People-watching from the patio is part of the experience dining at Devon’s.

and tandoori chicken with green mango chutney. BYOB. 10 India St. (off Centre St.). y 508/325-0308. Entrees $12–$25. No credit cards. Dinner nightly. Closed Nov–Mar. Map p 124.

★ Brotherhood of Thieves NANTUCKET PUB The downstairs is what is left that is authentic at this classic whaling bar. Upstairs has been fancified. Burgers and fries are a specialty. 23 Broad St. y 508/2282551. Entrees $9–$18. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Closed mid-Oct to mid-May. Map p 124.

★★ Centre Street Bistro NANTUCKET NEW AMERICAN This tiny restaurant, owned by a team of top chefs, is a hidden gem with reasonable prices, by Nantucket standards. BYOB. 29 Centre St. y 508/2288470. Entrees $19–$25. MC, V. Dinner nightly; breakfast & lunch weekends. Map p 124. ★★★ The Chanticleer NANTUCKET FRENCH This rose-covered cottage in ’Sconset has the atmosphere of a private club and the menu of a brasserie moderne, with dishes like moules frites. 9 New St., Siasconset (south side of island).

y 508/257-4499. Entrees $24–$43. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Closed mid-Oct to May. Map p 124.

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Dine by candlelight at Nantucket’s romantic Company of the Cauldron.

★★★ Cinco Restaurant & Bar NANTUCKET SPANISH The premier place to get tapas on the island and a very stylish boite indeed. 5 Amelia Dr. (1⁄4 mile [.4km] from rotary, just off South Rd.). y 508/325-5151. Tapas $9–$18, Entrees $19–$28. AE, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Closed Jan– Mar. Map p 124. ★★ The Club Car NANTUCKET CONTINENTAL A fine place to come for lunch or the late-night piano bar scene; both take place in the antique first-class rail car. This feels like old Nantucket. 1 Main St. y 508/228-1101. Entrees $24–$45. Have a drink before dining at the Galley at Cliffside Beach Club.

AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Closed late Oct–Apr. Map p 124.

★★★ Company of the Cauldron NANTUCKET CONTINENTAL The island’s most romantic restaurant—think candlelight and harp music—serves four-course fixed price meals in two seatings. 5 India St. (btw. Centre & Federal sts.). y 508/228-4016. Fixed price $60– $62. Except Mon, Lobster 4-ways for $79. MC, V. Dinner nightly. Seatings at 6:45 or 8:45pm, except Mon at 7pm. Closed mid-Oct to mid-Apr. Map p 124. ★★★ Corazon Del Mar NANTUCKET LATIN Featuring a seafood and raw bar, as well as a tequila bar, this place offers taste sensations you can’t get anywhere else on the island. 21 S. Water St. y 508/2280815. Entrees $22–$32. AE, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Closed Jan–Mar. Map p 124. ★★★ The Galley NANTUCKET NEW AMERICAN This beachfront restaurant is where you go if you want to feel like you are in a Travel & Leisure photo spread. 54 Jefferson Ave. (at the Cliffside Beach Club, 1 mile [.8km] east of Main St.). y 508/228-9641. Entrees $29–$39 AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Closed late Sept to late May. Map p 124.

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y 508/228-2552. Entrees $18–$36. AE, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Tues–Sun lunch (in season). Closed mid-Dec to mid-May. Map p 124.

★★★ Oran Mor Bistro NANTUCKET NEW AMERICAN Climb the copper steps to the second floor of a historic building to visit this contender for best island restaurant. This sophisticated venue offers topnotch food and service. 2 S. Beach St. y 508/228-8655. Entrees $26– $32. AE, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Closed mid-Dec to mid-Apr. Map p 124. ★★★ Straight Wharf Restaurant NANTUCKET NEW AMERICAN This fine-dining waterfront venue has a pair of acclaimed chefs who turn out summer favorites like watermelon gazpacho and clambake with all the fixings. There’s a less expensive bar menu available. 6 Harbor Sq. (on Straight Wharf). y 508/228-4499. Entrees $26–$39.

★★ Sushi by Yoshi NANTUCKET JAPANESE Nantucket’s best source of sushi is tucked on a side street in a tiny storefront. 2 E. Chest-

Dining A to Z

★★ Le Languedoc Bistro NANTUCKET FRENCH Nantucket’s most authentic French cafe serves the best burger on island, as well as more classically Continental dishes. Downstairs is the casual cafe; upstairs is more fancy. 24 Broad St.

AE, MC, V. Lunch/brunch Tues–Sun & dinner daily. Closed late Sept to late May. Map p 124.

nut St. y 508/228-1801. Sushi rolls (6 pieces) $6–$22. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 124.

★★★ Topper’s at the Wauwinet NANTUCKET NEW AMERICAN You can take a free water shuttle to this restaurant at a secluded resort, the island’s fanciest. Dinner here is a major event. 22 Wauwinet Rd. (off Squam Rd.). y 508/228-8768. Entrees $34, $56 3-course fixedprice dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Closed Nov–Apr. Map p 124.

Martha’s Vineyard ★★ Alchemy EDGARTOWN FRENCH BISTRO A slice of Paris on Main Street, this bistro serves up escargot and lapin moutarde with aplomb. 71 Main St. y 508/6279999. Entrees $22–$33. AE, MC, V. Lunch Mon–Sat; dinner nightly. Map p 123.

A lobster roll is the quintessential Cape Cod sandwich.

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We All Scream for Ice Cream! For ice-cream lovers visiting the Cape and Islands, a few parlors stand out above the rest: ★★ Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium (y 508/548-7878), with

locations on Main Street in Falmouth and Circuit Ave. in Oak Bluffs, is home of the area’s most unusual flavor: lobster ice cream. Big portions too. ★★ Smitty’s Homemade Ice Cream (326 E. Falmouth Hwy./Rte. 28; y 508/457-1060) is the real thing, creamy and smooth. ★★ Twin Acres Ice Cream Shoppe (21 Rte. 6A, Sandwich; y 508/888-0566) is right out of a Norman Rockwell illustration. ★★ Ben & Jerry’s, with locations in the center of Hyannis, Eastham, and Provincetown, is the classic homemade sweet stuff in beguiling flavors. ★★ Four Seas Ice Cream (360 S. Main St., Centerville; y 508/7751394), exotic flavors like cantaloupe and beach plum are a specialty. ★★ Sundae School, with locations on Lower County Road in Dennisport and Main Street in Harwich Port, is an old-fashioned ice-cream parlor that is a favorite among many. ★ Mad Martha’s, with locations in Edgartown and Oak Bluffs (y 508/693-9151), is pricey, but many islanders say these homemade scoops are worth it. ★★ The Juice Bar (12 Broad St.; y 508/228-5799) is Nantucket’s premier place for homemade ice-cream. A tasty treat brings smiles to faces of ice-cream lovers of all ages.

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Have a rowdy good time at Sharky’s Cantina on Martha’s Vineyard.

=

★★ Art Cliff Diner VINEYARD HAVEN DINER The best diner around serves dishes containing off-the-boat seafood and out-of-thegarden vegetables. 39 Beach St. y 508/693-1224. All under $15. No credit cards. Breakfast & lunch Thurs– Tues. Map p 123. ★★★ Atria EDGARTOWN NEW AMERICAN This fine-dining venue set in a sea captain’s house is considered one of the best restaurants on island. 137 Main St. y 508/6275850. Entrees $30–$48. AE, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Map p 123. ★★ Détente EDGARTOWN NEW AMERICAN The theme at this small and romantic fine-dining restaurant is seasonal specials from local farms. Off Winter St. (in Nevin Sq., behind Colonial Inn). y 508/627-8810. Entrees $29–$35. AE, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Closed Feb–Mar. Map p 123. ★★ Espresso Love EDGARTOWN AMERICAN Breakfast and lunch have deli standards, like muffins and sandwiches; dinner is low-key fine dining at this casual off-the-beatentrack cafe. 17 Church St. (off Main St. behind visitor center). y 508/

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627-9211. Entrees $12–$18. AE, MC, V. 3 meals daily. Map p 123.

=

★★ Home Port MENEMSHA SEAFOOD Lobster and sunsets are the specialty at this casual harborside shack. BYOB. 512 North St. y 508/ 645-2679. Complete dinners $30–$50. MC, V. Dinner nightly. Closed Labor Day to mid-May. Map p 123. ★★★ Le Grenier VINEYARD HAVEN FRENCH Classic French cuisine in a romantic attic setting. 96 Main St. y 508/693-4906. Entrees $22–$32. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Map p 123. ★★★ L’etoile EDGARTOWN CONTEMPORARY FRENCH One of the Vineyard’s most acclaimed chefs creates an evolving menu heightened by delicacies from around the world. 22 N. Water St. y 508/627-9999. Entrees $36–$49. AE, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Closed Dec–Apr. Map p 123. ★ = The Newes From America EDGARTOWN AMERICAN This

historic tavern serves up good burgers and fish and chips. 23 Kelley St. (at the Kelley House). y 508/6274397. Entrees $8–$16. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 123.

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136 ★★ Oyster Bar Grill OAK BLUFFS STEAK/SEAFOOD A long oak bar and a large open kitchen frame this ample restaurant, the only island venue to specialize in steak. 57 Circuit Ave. y 508/693-6600. Entrees $19–$39. AE, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Closed Dec–Apr. Map p 123. ★ Sharky’s Cantina OAK BLUFFS MEXICAN A let-the-good-times-roll kind of place, this is OB’s rowdiest

restaurant. 31 Circuit Ave. y 508/ 693-7501. Entrees $7–$18. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 123. ★★★ Sweet Life OAK BLUFFS NEW AMERICAN Garden seating is preferred at this fine-dining restaurant set in a Victorian house. 63 Circuit Ave. y 508/696-0200. Entrees $32– $40. AE, DISC, MC, V. Dinner nightly. Closed Nov–Apr. Map p 123.

Cape Cod For Seafood Lovers People may spend years in search of the perfect clam shack on the Cape and Islands. Eating on picnic tables using paper plates, this is low-key dining. This list of the best makes the search easier. It’s the location, set on the harbor with a rooftop deck for dining, that makes ★ = The Clam Shack (227 Clinton Ave., off Scranton on Falmouth Inner Harbor; y 508/540-7758) a preferred spot for enjoying fried treats. At ★★ = Captain Frosty’s (219 Rte. 6A, Dennis; y 508/3858548), the breading is light and the fish the freshest available. Family-owned and operated, ★ = Marathon Seafood (231 Rte. 28, West Dennis; y 508/394-3379) holds its own among the clam shack competition, offering heaping portions of clams, fries, and onion rings. ★ = Cobie’s (3260 Rte. 6A, Brewster; y 508/896-7021) is convenient to the Rail Trail and a favorite since 1948. On the Outer Cape, ★★ = Arnold’s Lobster & Clam Bar (3580 Rte. 6, Eastham; y 508/255-2575) is the place to order succulent whole clams, fried just right. ★★ Mac’s Shack (91 Commercial St., Wellfleet; y 508/4876333) is an attempt to run the best darn clam shack on Cape Cod. Go early or late; crowds are intense. People say ★★ = Moby Dick’s Restaurant (3225 Rte. 6, Wellfleet; y 508/349-9795) wins the clam shack competition hands-down. It sure has the crowds to prove it. Is Moby Dick’s the finest clam shack on Cape Cod? You’ll have to taste for yourself!

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Best Alfresco Gay Pick Up Joint

★★ Casino Wharf FX, 286 Grand Ave., Falmouth Heights (p 145)

★★ Tea Dance at the Boatslip, 161 Commercial St., Provincetown (p 144)

★★★ The Beachcomber, 1220 Old Cahoon Hollow Rd. (at Cahoon Hollow Beach), Wellfleet (p 143)

★★★ Crown & Anchor, 247 Commercial St., Provincetown (p 144)

Best Old Cape Cod Pub

Best Bar Food

★★★ The Captain Kidd Bar, 77 Water St., Woods Hole (p 141)

★★★ Cinco Restaurant & Bar, 5 Amelia Dr., Nantucket (p 132 in The Best Dining)

★★ Slip 14, 14 Old South Wharf, Nantucket (p 143)

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Best Drag Show

Best Late-Night Noshing ★★ Peking Palace, 452 Main St., Falmouth (p 126 in The Best Dining)

Previous page: Enjoy a cool libation at Hyannis’s RoöBar, or one of many other watering holes on the Cape and Islands.

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The Irish Pub 17 Joe’s Beach Road Bar & Grill 23 Land Ho! 21 The Beachcomber 24 Liam Maguire’s Irish Pub 4 The Boat House Restaurant & O’Shea’s Olde Inne 14 Lounge 9 Outer Bar & Grille 18 British Beer Company 6 Monomoy I. Monomoy Quahog Republic Dive Bar 10 The Captain Kidd Bar 2 National RooBar Wildlife 5 Casino Wharf FX 7 Refuge The Sandbar 12 The Chatham Squire 19 Dollar Bar & Grill 16 Compass Rose Summer Shanty 15 Sand Monomoy Pt. Sundancers 13 Courtyard Restaurant & Pub 1 The Wicked Oyster 24 Dino’s Sports Bar 11 The Woodshed 20 Falmouth Raw Bar 8 The Yardarm 22 Grumpy’s Pub 3

Best Happy Hour

Best Location

★★ Embargo, 453 Main St., Hyannis (p 142)

★★★ Outer Bar & Grille, 2173 Rte. 28, Harwich (p 142)

Best Dive Bar

Best Rock Club

★★ The Ritz Café, 4 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs, Martha’s Vineyard (p 145)

★★ Sundancer’s, 116 Main St./Rte. 28, West Dennis (p 144)

Best Piano Bar

Best Comedy Club

★★ The Club Car, 1 Main St., Nantucket (p 145)

★★ The Sandbar, 1 Lighthouse Inn Rd., West Dennis (p 145)

Best Irish Pub

Best Jazz

★★ Liam Maguire’s Irish Pub, 273 Main St., Falmouth (p 146)

★★★ The Roadhouse Café, 488 South St., Hyannis (p 128 in The Best Dining)

Best Gay Scene ★★ The Atlantic House, 6 Masonic Place, Provincetown (p 144)

Beat Deal

Best Sports Bar ★ Dino’s Sports Bar, 401 Nathan Ellis Hwy., Mashpee (p 146)

★★ Grumpy’s Pub, 29 Locust St., Falmouth (p 144)

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Nightlife A to Z Bars ★★★ The Captain Kidd Bar WOODS HOLE Great atmosphere here: meet a lobsterman or a Nobel Prize winner from the local scientific institutions. 77 Water St. y 508/ 548-9206. Map p 138.

They pull a mean pint at Embargo in Hyannis.

★★ The Chatham Squire CHATHAM This local institution attracts everyone from fishermen to CEOs. 487 Main St. y 508/9450945. Map p 138. ★ Courtyard Restaurant & Pub CATAUMET Local bands draw a crowd of young adults here. 1337 County Rd. y 508/563-1818. No cover. Map p 138.

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142 ★★ Embargo HYANNIS Great happy hour deals can be had at this tapas bar popular with singles in the 30 to 50 age group. 453 Main St. y 508/771-9700. Map p 140.

restaurant and a round gazebo poolside bar called LiBAYtion. 2173

★ Falmouth Raw Bar FALMOUTH A large bar plus tables outside on the deck overlooking Falmouth Inner Harbor are the pluses here.

★★ Patio PROVINCETOWN A large outdoor seating area on Commercial Street makes this a terrific people-watching spot. Good food too. 328 Commercial St. y 508/4874003. Map p 140.

56 Scranton Ave. y 508/548-7729. Map p 138.

★ Governor Bradford PROVINCETOWN It’s a good old bar featuring pool tables, drag karaoke, and disco. 312 Commercial St. y 508/ 487-2781. No cover. Map p 140. ★ The Lampost/Dive Bar OAK BLUFFS Young and loud are the watchwords at these clubs, one upstairs, one in the basem*nt. DJs and occasionally bands provide the music. 111 Circuit Ave. y 508/696-

Rte. 28 (at the Wequassett Inn, 5 miles [8km] NE of Chatham Center). y 508/432-5400. Map p 138.

★ Quahog Republic Dive Bar FALMOUTH Proudly calling itself a dive, this place hopes to establish itself as a hangout with cheap drinks. 97 Spring Bars Rd. y 508/ 540-4111. Map p 138. ★★ RoöBar FALMOUTH Sleek and sophisticated, come here to sip a martini while watching the crowds on Main Street. 285 Main St. y 508/

9352. No cover. Map p 141.

548-8600. www.theroobar.com. Map p 138.

★★ Land Ho! ORLEANS The best pub in town that also happens to be the social center. Rte. 6A & Cove Rd.

★ Rose & Crown NANTUCKET A fun, not-too-fancy bar that has live music in season. 23 S. Water St.

y 508/255-5165. Map p 138.

y 508/228-2595. www.theroseand

★★★ Outer Bar & Grille HARWICH A great place for a drink overlooking Pleasant Bay, this resort offers a bar that is part of a casual

★★ Sand Bar & Grill OAK BLUFFS This cool cat bar on the harbor is the place to hang out for a lively

crown.com. No cover. Map p 141.

Enjoy the view at the Falmouth Raw Bar.

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143

Nightlife A to Z

Karaoke is anything but a drag at the Governor Bradford.

singles scene. 6 Circuit Ave. Extension. y 508/693-7111. Map p 141. ★★ Slip 14 NANTUCKET A fun bar—a younger attractive crowd hangs out here in the summer. 14 Old South Wharf. y 508/228-2033. Map p 141.

★ The Wicked Oyster WELLFLEET This old warehouse-style building houses a hip and casual bar and restaurant. 50 Main St. y 508/ 349-3455. Map p 138. ★ The Yardarm ORLEANS A rowdy bar with great chowder in an old Cape Cod roadside shack. 48 Rte. 28. y 508/255-4840. Map p 138.

★ The Muse NANTUCKET A popular year-round club with live rockers in the summer. 44 Surfside Rd.

y 508/228-1471. Cover $5–$10. Map p 141.

★★★ Nector’s EDGARTOWN The island’s only major nightclub, this dance hall at the airport features top musicians, comedy, theme nights, and even teen nights. 17 Airport Rd. (At the Martha’s Vineyard Airport; take W. Tisbury/Edgartown Rd. & follow signs.) y 508/6931137. www.nectarsmv.com. Cover free to $17. Map p 141. RoöBar provides an excellent vantage point to people-watch in Falmouth.

Dance Clubs ★★★ The Beachcomber WELLFLEET Arguably the best dance club on Cape Cod, the ’Comber, set in an 1897 lifesaving station, is definitely the most scenic, set on Cahoon Hollow Beach. 1220 Old Cahoon Hollow Rd. (off Ocean View Dr. at Cahoon Hollow Beach). y 508/ 349-6055. www.thebeachcomber. com. Cover $5–$10. Map p 138.

★★ The Chicken Box NANTUCKET A rowdy venue popular with everyone, depending on the music act, from hip rockers to aging reggae heroes. 14 Dave St. (near the rotary, across from Stop & Shop). y 508/228-9717. www.thechicken box.com. Cover $7–$10. Map p 141.

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144 ★★ Sand Dollar Bar & Grill DENNIS PORT This is the place where the young, collegiate, preppy crowd hangs out to hear live music. Karaoke, rock, folk, and reggae are among the offerings. 244 Lower County Rd. y 508/398-4823. www.sanddollarbg.com. No cover. Map p 138. ★★ Sundancer’s WEST DENNIS This club overlooking the Bass River attracts a young to middle-aged crowd for music and dancing. There are karaoke, ’80s, and reggae nights. 116 Main St./Rte. 28. y 508/ 394-1600. Map p 138.

Gay & Lesbian Bars & Clubs ★★ The Atlantic House PROVINCETOWN This is one of the nation’s most famous gay bars, featuring disco and lots of sweaty dancing. The leather-oriented Macho Bar is upstairs. 6 Masonic Place (off Commercial St.). y 508/ 487-3821. Map p 140.

★★★ Crown & Anchor PROVINCETOWN Five specialty bars here include leather (the Vault), disco, comedy, drag, and cabaret. There is a pool bar and game room.

247 Commercial St. y 508/4871430. www.onlyatthecrown.com. Cover $5 and up. Major acts $25plus. Map p 140.

★★ Post Office Café & Cabaret PROVINCETOWN One of P-town’s top clubs, the small Post Office hosts great drag and comedy shows. 303 Commercial St. y 508/ 487-0006. Cover $15. Map p 140. ★★ Tea Dance at the Boatslip PROVINCETOWN P-town’s biggest outdoor dance party starts at 4pm sharp daily poolside at this club in the west end of town. 161 Commercial St. y 508/487-1669. No cover. Map p 140.

★★ Vixen PROVINCETOWN This chic women’s bar has jazz, blues, and comedy on the roster. Pool tables too. 336 Commercial St. (at the Pilgrim House). y 508/4876424. www.ptownvixen.com. Cover $20. Map p 140.

Live Music: Blues & Roots ★★ Grumpy’s Pub FALMOUTH This old-school bar features live music (mostly rock and blues) yearround. 29 Locust St. y 508/5403930. Cover free to $10. Map p 138.

Get your groove on at Nector’s on Martha’s Vineyard.

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The “A-House” is a Provincetown favorite.

★★ Island Merchant HYANNIS A hip cafe with live entertainment nightly from rock to folk to blues. 302 Main St. (at Barnstable Rd.). y 508/771-1337. www.the islandmerchant.com. No cover. Map p 140. ★★ Joe’s Beach Road Bar & Grill ORLEANS An old barn of a bar that is a great place to listen to live rockin’ local music. 5 Beach Rd. (at the Barley Neck Inn). y 508/2550212. www.barleyneck.com. No cover. Map p 138. ★★ The Ritz Café OAK BLUFFS A down and dirty hole-in-the-wall that features fun local bands yearround. Pool tables too. 4 Circuit Ave. y 508/693-9851. www.theritzcafe. com. No cover. Map p 141. ★★ The Woodshed BREWSTER Hot local bands take the tiny stage seasonally at this low-key bar. 1993 Rte. 6A (at the Brewster Inn & Chowder House). y 508/896-771. No cover. Map p 138.

Live Comedy & Music ★★ The Sandbar WEST DENNIS This shack—a throwback to old Cape Cod—is the place to hear Rock King, a boogie-woogie pianist and vaudeville-style comedian. It’s a

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hoot. At the Lighthouse Inn. y 508/ 398-7586. No cover. Map p 138.

Live Music: Rock & Jazz ★ The Boat House Restaurant & Lounge FALMOUTH This harborfront club features live bands in season from classic rock to jazz, and dancing is popular. 88 Scranton Ave. (on Falmouth Inner Harbor). y 508/ 548-7800. Cover varies. Map p 138.

★★ Casino Wharf FX FALMOUTH HEIGHTS The view can’t be beat from the 2nd or 3rd floor of this beachfront bar and restaurant. Live music all year. 286 Grand Ave.

y 508/540-6160. http://casino wharf.weebly.com. Cover free to $12. Map p 138.

★ Compass Rose Summer Shanty WEST DENNIS A small bar

in the middle of a marina alongside Bass River is a great place to hang out on the deck on a clear night. Music is a mixed bag. Bass River Marina (off Rte. 28). y 508/3980400. www.summershanty.com. No cover. Map p 138.

Piano Bar ★★ The Club Car NANTUCKET The place to go for late-night piano bar action, this place set in a historic

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railway car is loads of fun. 1 Main St.

y 508/228-1101. No cover. Map p 141.

Pubs with Music ★★ British Beer Company FALMOUTH HEIGHTS Select from 18 drafts from the British Isles and take in the view of the beach across the street. Live music on weekends year-round. 263 Grand Ave. y 508/ 540-9600. www.britishbeer.com. No cover. Map p 138.

★★ The Irish Pub WEST HARWICH This premier Irish bar offers a variety of live entertainment, including Irish music and karaoke. Dancing is de rigueur. 126 Main St./Rte. 28.

★★ O’Shea’s Olde Inne WEST DENNIS Terrific Irish “sessions,” traditional Irish music, at this old Cape cottage, a step back in time. 348 Main St./Rte. 28. y 508/3988887. www.osheasoldeinne.com. No cover. Map p 138.

★ Tommy Doyle’s Irish Pub HYANNIS There’s always lots going on from live music to beer pong to karaoke at this pub. 334 Main St. (at Barnstable Rd.). y 508/862-9430. www.tommy doyles.com. No cover. Map p 140.

Sports Bars ★ Dino’s Sports Bar MASHPEE

y 508/432-8808. www.capecods

The biggest sports bar with the most TVs in the area. 401 Nathan

irishpub.com. No cover before 9:30pm. Map p 138.

Ellis Hwy./Rte. 151. y 508/4777030. Map p 138.

★★ Liam Maguire’s Irish Pub FALMOUTH Irish music by Liam himself, plus other bands, enliven this comfortable Irish pub that doubles as a sports bar. 273 Main St.

★ The Squealing Pig Pub & Oyster Bar PROVINCETOWN

y 508/548-8563. www.liammaguire. com. No cover. Map p 138.

★★ Offshore Ale Company OAK BLUFFS A rustic brewpub with live acoustic performers 6 nights a week in season, this place gets high marks. 30 Kennebec Ave.

y 508/693-2626. www.offshoreale. com. No cover. Map p 141.

Attracting straights and gays who like sports, this is a kind of good old bar with great bar food. Live entertainment Saturday nights in season. 335 Commercial St. y 508/4875804. No cover. Map p 140.

★ The Steak House & Sport Bar HYANNIS High def TVs (32 of

them), live music, and a lively bar scene make this a popular spot. 72 North St. y 508/775-7100. www. steakhousecapecod.com. No cover. Map p 140.

O’Sheas offers traditional Irish music sessions.

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Cape Cod Arts & Entertainment Academy of Performing Arts Playhouse 20 Harwich Junior Theatre 16 Marshfield Brant Rock M A R S27 HFIELD Hyannis Youth & Community Center 13 Art House Green Harbor Kate Gould Park 18 Aselton Park 11 3A Monomoy Theatre 17 Bandshell at Marine Park 4 DUXBURY Payomet Performing Arts Center 24 Barnstable Comedy Millbrook Club 8 Pops by the Sea 10 Cape Cinema Duxbury14 3 Provincetown Theater 25 Cape Cod Melody Tent 9 South Regal Cinemas Nickelodeon 5 Cape Cod Symphony Duxbury Orchestra 12 Guret Pt. Third Fret Coffee House 7 Cape Cod Theatre Project 3 Unitarian Universalist Meeting House of CapeKingston Playhouse 15 Plymouth Harbor Provincetown 26 Cape Rep Theatre 19 KINGSTON North Plymouth Wellfleet Drive-In 22 College Light Opera Company 2 W.H.A.T. 23 Cotuit Center forPlymouth the Arts 6 Woods Hole Folk Music Society 1 Falmouth Theatre Guild 2 First Encounter Coffee House 21 White Horse

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Arts & Entertainment Best Bets Best Acoustics

Best Family Theater

★★★ Trinity Park Tabernacle, Oak Bluffs Campground, Martha’s Vineyard (p 153)

★★ Falmouth Theatre Guild, Highfield Theatre, 33 Highfield Dr.,

Best Annual Concert

Best Avant-Garde Theater

★★★ Pops by the Sea with the Boston Pops, Hyannis Village Green, early August (p 152)

★★★ W.H.A.T. (Wellfleet Harbor Actors Theatre), 2357 Rte. 6,

Best Concert Venue with a View

Best Children’s Theater

★★ Aselton Park, intersection of Ocean & South streets, Hyannis Harbor (p 153)

Best Town Band Venue ★★★ Kate Gould Park, Main St., Chatham (p 153)

Falmouth (p 155)

Wellfleet (p 156)

★★ Cape Rep Theatre, Brewster (p 155)

Best Coffee House ★★ First Encounter Coffee House, Eastham (p 152)

Best Music Series ★★★ Woods Hole Folk Music Society, Woods Hole Community Hall, Woods Hole (p 154)

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Almost every town on Cape Cod has its own band that performs free concerts throughout the summer in a community bandshell. Selections are typically a range of Big Band, jazz, Broadway, and classical music. The following is the schedule: • Upper Cape: Bourne, Thurs 7pm, Buzzards Bay Park, Main Street; Sandwich, Thurs 7:30pm, gazebo behind Henry T. Wing School, Water St.; Falmouth, Thurs 8pm, Marina Park, Scranton Ave. • Mid-Cape: Hyannis, Wed 7:30pm and Sat 6pm Village Green, Main St.; Yarmouth, Mon 7:30pm Mattacheese Middle School, Higgins Crowell Rd., W. Yarmouth; Dennis, Mon 7:30pm Dennis Village Green, Rte. 6A; Dennis Port, Tues 7pm Dennis Port Village Green. • Lower Cape: Harwich, Tues 7pm bandshell at Brooks Park; Brewster, Sun 6pm Drummer Boy Park; Chatham, Fri 8pm Kate Gould Park, Main St.; Orleans, Mon 7pm, Nauset Beach, Beach Rd. • Nantucket: Sun 6pm Band Shell at Children’s Beach, off S. Beach St. • Martha’s Vineyard: Sun 8pm alternating between Owen Park, Vineyard Haven, and Ocean Park, Oak Bluffs.

Best Theater Venue ★★★ Cape Playhouse, Main St./ Rte. 6A, Dennis Village (p 155)

Best Sports Venue ★★★ Hyannis Youth & Community Center, Bassett Lane, Hyannis (p 154)

Best Family Entertainment

Arts & Entertainment Best Bets

Free Summer Band Concerts

Best Art House Movie Theater ★★★ Cape Cinema, Main St./Rte. 6A, Dennis (p 152)

Best Drive-in Theater ★★ Wellfleet Drive-In, Rte. 6, Wellfleet (p 152)

★★★ Cape Cod Baseball League games, various venues (p 116) Chatham’s Town Band plays in Kate Gould Park throughout the summer.

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Arts & Entertainment A to Z Annual Concerts ★★★ Boston Pops at Jetties Beach NANTUCKET This annual event in early August is the most anticipated event of the season on Nantucket. y 508/228-1700. www. nantuckethospital.org/Events/Pops. html. Map p 150.

★★★ Pops by the Sea with the Boston Pops HYANNIS The first Sunday in August, this event attracts thousands of people to the Hyannis Village Green. Hyannis Chamber. y 508/362-5230. www. artsfoundation.org/pops-by-the-sea. Tickets $15 adults, $5 children. Map p 148.

Cinemas ★★★ Cape Cinema DENNIS

★★ Wellfleet Drive-In WELLFLEET Built in 1957, it’s the only drive-in left on Cape Cod and a fun family tradition. It shows double features all summer long. 51 Rte. 6 (just north of the Eastham border). y 508/349-7176. www.wellfleet drivein.com. Tickets $8.50 adults, $5 kids & seniors. Map p 148.

Classical Music ★★★ Cape Cod Symphony Orchestra HYANNIS This topnotch professional orchestra performs at the Barnstable Performing Arts Center, the Cape’s top auditorium, which is located at Barnstable High School. 744 Main St. y 508/ 362-1111. www.capesymphony.org. Tickets $28–$60. Map p 148.

Running art house films, this 1930s cinema with an Art Deco ceiling mural by Rockwell Kent and leather armchairs for seats is a true delight.

Coffee Houses ★★★ First Encounter Coffee House EASTHAM On a monthly

35 Hope Lane (off Rte. 6A, on the grounds of the Cape Playhouse). y 508/385-2503. www.capecinema. com. Tickets $10. Map p 148.

varying schedule, this venue at the Chapel in the Pines is a simple 1899 church, but it attracts some big names on the folk circuit. 220

★★ Regal Cinemas Nickelodeon FALMOUTH The Cape’s only art house multiplex with six small screens. 742 Rte. 151 (west of Sandwich Rd.). y 508/563-6510. Tickets $12. Map p 148.

Samoset Rd. (take a left at the Town Hall traffic lights). www.first encounter.org. Tickets $15–$20. Map p 148.

★★ Third Fret Coffee House MARSTONS MILLS Local musicians

The Boston Pops journeys to Hyannis each summer for Pops by the Sea.

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perform at the 100-seat Liberty Hall, a historic meeting house, monthly September to May. Coffee and baked goods are included with admission. 2150 Main St. No phone. www.trespassmusic.org/thethirdfret. Ticket prices vary. Map p 148.

Concert & Performance Venues ★★ Art House PROVINCETOWN This theater in a former cinema mounts avant-garde productions in season such as a drag version of Romeo and Juliet. Films are shown here off season. Cafe on-site. 214 Commercial St. y 508/487-9222. www.ptownarthouse.com. Tickets $12–$30. Map p 148.

★★ Aselton Park HYANNIS This sloping park facing Hyannis Harbor is the perfect place to see free concerts three times a week all summer long. Check local listings. Corner Ocean & South streets. y 508/3625230. www.hyannis.com. Free. Map p 148.

Arts & Entertainment A to Z

The Cape Cod Symphony performs outdoor pops concerts in the summer.

★★★ Kate Gould Park CHATHAM Almost every town on the Cape has a town band that performs on the Village Green, but Chatham’s concerts on Friday nights at 8pm are arguably the best. Off Chatham Bars Ave. (near Main St.). y 508/945-5199. Free. Map p 148. ★★★ Old Whaling Church EDGARTOWN, MARTHA’S VINEYARD This magnificent 1843 Green Revival Church serves as a 500-seat performing arts center offering lectures and concerts. 89 Main St. y 508/627-4442. www. mvpreservation.org/whale.html. Ticket prices vary. Map p 150.

★★★ Trinity Park Tabernacle OAK BLUFFS, MARTHA’S VINEYARD This open-air wrought-iron and wood church is the site of Oak Bluffs’ Trinity Park Tabernacle is the site of community sings throughout the summer.

★★ Bandshell at Marina Park FALMOUTH This new bandshell by the harbor is where the town band plays Thursdays in the summer and other events take place throughout the year, including an acclaimed jazz festival in the fall. Scranton Ave.

y 508/548-8500. www.falmouth chamber.com. Map p 148.

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Performance spaces include an outdoor natural amphitheater. Middle Rd. (off Beetlebung Corner). y 508/ 645-9662. www.dancetheyard.org. Tickets free to $50. Map p 150.

Popular Music ★★★ Cape Cod Melody Tent

Spend a pleasant evening at a Cape Cod Baseball League game.

community sings on Wednesdays in summer and concerts on summer weekends. Trinity Park (in the Camp Meeting Grounds). y 508/693-0525. Ticket prices vary. Map p 150.

★★ Unitarian Universalist

Meeting House of Provincetown PROVINCETOWN This glori-

HYANNIS Built as a summer theater in 1950, this big blue tent has hosted the major performers of the past 50 years, from jazz greats to comedians. Every seat is a winner. Children’s theater is on Wednesday mornings. 21 West Main St. (just west of the rotary). y 508/7755630. www.melodytent.org. Tickets $18–$45. Map p 148.

Spectator Sports ★★★ Cape Cod Baseball League CAPEWIDE See p 116.

vary. Map p 148.

★★★ Hyannis Youth & Community Center HYANNIS This state-of-the-art center has two ice rinks, a basketball court, walking track, teen room, and snack bar. It is the home rink for a junior professional hockey team. 141 Bassett Lane (1 block north of North St.). y 508/ 790-6345. www.town.barnstable. ma.us/hycc. Day pass $5. Map p 148.

Concert Series ★★★ Woods Hole Folk Music Society WOODS HOLE Off sea-

Theater ★★ Academy of Performing Arts Playhouse ORLEANS The

son, the society mounts concerts twice a month attracting a grassroots crowd to the Community Hall just over the Eel Pond Drawbridge.

162-seat arena-style stage is housed in the old town hall. Performances include musicals, drama, and poetry readings in season. Children’s theater is on Friday and Saturday mornings. 120 Main St. (3⁄4 mile [1.2km]

ous space is given over to a range of performances from plays to cabaret. Upstairs is an acoustically superb concert hall. Downstairs is an intimate theater. Summer Sunday classical music series is a highlight. 236 Commercial St.

y 508/487-9344. Ticket prices

Water St. y 508/540-0320. www. arts-cape.com/whfolkmusic. Tickets $10. Map p 148.

Dance ★★★ The Yard CHILMARK, MARTHA’S VINEYARD A rural venue that attracts nationally known and local performers in the fields of dance, theater, music, and opera.

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from town center). y 508/255-1963. www.apacape.org. Tickets $10–$22. Map p 148.

★★ Barnstable Comedy Club BARNSTABLE VILLAGE A local favorite since 1922, the oldest amateur theater group in the country offers a mix of old chestnuts and

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155 6A. y 508/362-6333. Tickets $15– $20. Map p 148.

★★ Cape Cod Theatre Project FALMOUTH At this playwrights’ workshop, staged readings are performed for the public for a few weeks in July. The choices tend to be provocative, and well known actors often participate. At Falmouth Academy. Depot Ave. (off Palmer Ave./Rte. 28). y 508/457-4242. www.capecodtheatreproject.org. Tickets $20. Map p 148. ★★★ Cape Playhouse DENNIS The oldest continuously active straw-hat theater in the country, this enterprise was started in 1927. Stars who have performed here include Bette Davis, Humphrey Bogart, and Jane Fonda. Performances mid-June to early September. Children’s theater performances are held on Friday mornings. 820 Rte. 6A. y 508/385-3911. www.cape playhouse.com. Tickets $25–$55. Children’s theater $10. Map p 148. ★★ Cape Rep Theatre BREWSTER There are performances of plays year-round from Eurydice to Frankie and Johnny in the Clair de Lune at both an indoor theater and an outdoor theater on the old Crosby estate. Summer matinees are geared for children. 3299 Rte. 6A (about 21⁄2 miles [4km] east of Brewster center). y 508/8961888. www.caperep.org. Tickets $28. Map p 148.

★★★ College Light Opera Company FALMOUTH Top talents from colleges across the country perform a musical a week for 13 weeks in the summer at historic Highfield Theater. 33 Highfield Dr. (at the end of Depot Ave., off Palmer Ave.). y 508/548-0668. www. collegelightopera.com. Tickets $30. Map p 148. ★★★ Cotuit Center for the Arts COTUIT One of the top venues on the Cape, this theater in a huge barnlike structure doubles as an art gallery and general performance space for musicians. The schedule here is often full of can’t-miss events and the most talked about goings-on in the region. 4404 Rte. 28 (1 mile [.8km] east of Rte. 130). y 508/4280669. www.cotuitarts.org. Ticket prices vary. Map p 148.

Arts & Entertainment A to Z

original farces off season. 3171 Rte.

★★ Falmouth Theatre Guild FALMOUTH This 50-year-old theater company puts on three shows a year, mostly musicals, at the historic Highfield Theater. Casts are made up of talented locals. 33 Highfield Dr. y 508/548-0400. www. falmouththeatreguild.org. Tickets $16. Map p 148.

★★ Harwich Junior Theatre WEST HARWICH This troupe has been pleasing audiences with creative productions since 1952. Summer performances are geared to children; winter to children and adults. 105 Division St. (Take exit 9A, Rte. 134 to Rte. 28, follow 11⁄2 miles

The famous Cape Playhouse has been presenting summer theater since 1927.

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P-town traditions of Eugene O’Neill and Tennessee Williams, who both once lived and wrote plays here. It serves as a concert hall, dance studio, and cinema. 238 Bradford St. (east end of town). y 508/487-7487. www.provincetowntheater.com. Map p 148.

You’ll see vibrant productions of new plays at Wellfleet Harbor Actors Theater.

[2.4km] to Division St. in Harwich, take a right to theater.) y 508/ 432-2002. www.hjtcapecod.org. Tickets $20–$25 adults, $15 children. Map p 148.

★★ Monomoy Theatre CHATHAM Every summer since 1958, the Ohio University Players have commuted to this 1930s theater to put on a play a week from musicals to Shakespeare. In late July, they take a week off for the Monomoy Chamber Ensemble. 776 Rte. 28 (1⁄4 mile west of the rotary). y 508/9450945. www.monomoytheatre.org. Tickets $20–$30. Map p 148.

★★ Payomet Performing Arts Center NORTH TRURO This home

for music, film, and theater is nestled near the dunes of Truro. From a Celtic Music Festival to concerts, plays, and experimental films, this tented venue provides fascinating programming. Old Dewline Rd. (Rte. 6, right on S. Highland Rd., follow signs). y 508/487-2300. www. ppactruro.org. Ticket prices vary. Map p 148.

★★ Provincetown Theater PROVINCETOWN This state-of-theart theater helps to continue the

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★★★ Theatre Workshop of Nantucket NANTUCKET Actor John Shea, a Nantucket summer resident, is artistic director for this group that performs year-round works by Broadway-caliber writers and composers in the basem*nt space in the United Methodist Church. 2 Centre St. y 508/2284305. www.theatreworkshop.com. Tickets $10–$25. Map p 150. ★★★ Vineyard Playhouse VINEYARD HAVEN, MARTHA’S VINEYARD Equity professionals put on a rich season of shows at this 112-seat black box theater. Children’s theater is performed Saturdays at 10am. Outdoor Shakespeare productions get a 3-week run beginning mid-July at Tashmoo Amphitheatre, on State Rd. (1 mile west of town). 24 Church St. y 508/696-6300. www.vineyard playhouse.org. Tickets $15–$30. Shakespeare tickets $15 adults, $10 children. Map p 150.

★★★ W.H.A.T. (Wellfleet Harbor Actors Theater) WELLFLEET Begun in 1985 by a few aspiring actors and playwrights, the W.H.A.T. has turned its shows into must-see events of the season. The state-ofthe-art 220-seat theater, named the Julie Harris Stage, opened in 2007. The harbor stage, which is near Mayo Beach, is still used for productions too. Children’s shows are mounted in a tent on the Route 6 property. 2357 Rte. 6 (next to the post office), Wellfleet. y 508/3499428. www.what.org. Ticket prices $10–$34 for regular shows. Map p 148.

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Lodging Best Bets Best on Cape Cod

Most Romantic

★★★ Wequassett Resort & Golf Club $$$$$ 2173 Rte. 28, Harwich (p 166)

★★★ Captain’s House Inn $$$ 369 Old Harbor Rd., Chatham (p 165)

Best on Nantucket

★★ Lighthouse Inn $$$ Lighthouse Inn Rd., West Dennis (p 165)

Best on Martha’s Vineyard ★★★ Charlotte Inn $$$$ 27 S. Summer St., Edgartown, Martha’s Vineyard (p 171)

Best Views ★★ Land’s End Inn $$$$ 22 Commercial St., Provincetown (p 168) Previous page: A simple cottage on the beach is a favorite lodging for many visitors to Cape Cod.

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★★★ Cliffside Beach Club $$$$$ 46 Jefferson Ave., Nantucket (p 169)

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Best Grand Old Hotel ★★★ Chatham Bars Inn $$$$$ 297 Shore Rd., Chatham (p 165)

Best Boutique Hotel ★★ The Veranda House $$$$ 3 Step Lane, Nantucket (p 170)

Best Pool ★ Cape Codder Resort & Spa $$ 1225 Iyannough Rd./Rte. 132, Hyannis (p 164)

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Lodging Best Bets

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Coonamessett Inn 7 New Seabury Resort 8 Corsair and Cross Rip Resort Ocean Edge Resort & Club 34 Motels 25 Ocean Mist Motor Lodge 21 The Cove 36 Old Sea Pines Inn 33 Pt. Gammon Dan’l Webster Inn & Spa 9 Orleans Inn 37 Anchor In 20 Days Cottages 40 Red Jacket Resort 20 Ashley Manor Inn 19 Even’tide 40 Sands Time Motor Inn & Monomoy I. of Monomoy Baileys by the Sea 5 Inn on the Sound 6 Harbor House 2 National Wildlife Beach Breeze Inn 3 Isaiah Jones Homestead Sandy Neck Motel 13 Refuge K E& Breakfast T Beechwood Inn 14 N A N T U C Bed 11 Simmons Homestead Inn 18 Belfry Inne & Bistro 10 Kalmar Village 40 Spring Hill Motor Lodge 12 Cape Codder Resort & Spa S 16 O U N Lamb D and Lion Inn 15 Monomoy Pt. Surfside Cottages 40 Captain Farris House 23 Lighthouse Inn 24 Tides Motel 4 Captain Freeman Inn 32 Little Inn on Pleasant Bay 31 Wequassett Resort & Golf Club 30 Captains House Inn 29 Long Dell Inn 17 Whalewalk Inn & Spa 35 Winstead Inn & Beach Resort 26 Chatham Bars Inn 28 Nauset House Inn 38 Nauset Knoll Motor Lodge 39 Woods Hole Inn 1 Chatham Wayside Inn 27

Hyannis Port

21 22

Best Access to the Water ★ The Masthead $$$ 31–41 Commercial St., Provincetown (p 168)

Best Moderately Priced Inn ★ Nauset House Inn $$ 143 Beach Rd., East Orleans (p 166)

Best Cheap Bed Surfside Motel $$ 7 Oak Bluffs Ave., Oak Bluffs, Martha’s Vineyard (p 172)

Best Gracious New England Style ★★ Hob Knob $$$$$ 128 Main St., Edgartown, Martha’s Vineyard (p 171)

Best In-Town Location ★★ Woods Hole Inn $$ 28 Water St., Woods Hole (p 164) Wequassett Resort’s twenty-eight Atlantic restaurant offers outstanding dining.

Most Comfortable ★★★ Brass Key Guesthouse $$$$$ 67 Bradford St., Provincetown (p 167)

Best Spa ★★ Carpe Diem Guesthouse & Spa $$$ 12–14 Johnson St., Provincetown (p 167)

Best Hotel Restaurant ★★★ 28 Atlantic at Wequassett Resort $$$ 2173 Rte. 28, Harwich (p 129 in the Best Dining)

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Anchor Inn 6 Beachside at Nantucket 2 Brass Lantern Inn 8 Cliff Lodge 4 Cliffside Beach Club 1 The Cottages/Woof Cottages 12 Jared Coffin House 11 Martin House Inn 5 Nantucket Whaler Guest House 9 Nesbitt Inn 10 Robert B. Johnson Youth Hostel 15 Ships Inn 14 Union Street Inn 13 The Veranda House 7 The Wauwinet 16 White Elephant 3

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Upper Cape ★ Baileys By The Sea FAL-

27 units. Doubles $170–$250 w/ breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 158.

MOUTH HEIGHTS A few steps from Falmouth Heights Beach, this casual B&B has a summery feel and welcoming innkeepers. 321 Grand Ave.

★★ Dan’l Webster Inn & Spa SANDWICH This large lodging and dining spot in the center of Sandwich village is a dependable bet for a comfortable stay or a hearty meal.

y 866/548-5748 or 508/548-5748. www.baileysbythesea.com. 6 units. Doubles $205–$310 w/breakfast. MC, V. Map p 158.

cket

★ Beach Breeze Inn FALMOUTH Across the street from Surf Drive Beach, guests here beat the summertime traffic blues. There’s an (unheated) pool too. 321 Shore St. y 800/828-3255 or 508/548-1765. www.beachbreezeinn.com. 20 units. Doubles $179–$289. MC, V. Map p 158.

or

Straight Wharf

Old South Wharf

Commercial Wharf

★★ Belfry Inne & Bistro SANDWICH This lodging option with three historic buildings in the center of the village features antique beds and claw-foot tubs. 8 Jarves St. y 800/844-4542 or 508/888-8550. www.belfryinn.com. 22 units. Doubles $149–$315 w/ breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 158. ★★ Coonamessett Inn FALMOUTH This gracious inn on 7 acres overlooking a pond has a good restaurant as well. 311 Gifford St. y 508/548-2300. www.capecod restaurants.org/coonamessett.

Lodging A to Z

Lodging A to Z

149 Main St. y 508/800/444-3566 or 508/888-3622. www.danlwebster inn.com. 46 units. Doubles $199– $249 w/breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Map p 158.

★★ Inn on the Sound FALMOUTH HEIGHTS High on a bluff near Falmouth’s premier sunning beach, this stylish (not frilly) B&B has a sweeping view of Vineyard Sound. 313 Grand Ave. y 800/5649668 or 508/457-9666. www.innon thesound.com. 10 units. Doubles $135–$345 w/breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 158. ★ Isaiah Jones Homestead Bed & Breakfast SANDWICH

The innkeepers have appointed this 1848 Victorian with fine antiques and reproductions. 165 Main St.

y 800/526-1625 or 508/888-9115. www.isaiahjones.com. 7 units. Doubles $175–$275 w/breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 158.

★★ New Seabury Resort MASHPEE Only 28 of the 1,600

Falmouth’s Coonamessett Inn offers a gracious atmosphere.

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condos in this 2,300-acre resort are available for vacationers to rent on this private beach on Nantucket Sound. Amenities include two pools, tennis courts, and nearby golf course. 20 Red Brook Rd. y 800/

the charming fishing village of Woods Hole. 28 Water St. y 508/

999-9033 or 508/539-8322. www. newseabury.com. 28 units. Doubles $347. AE, DC, MC, V. Map p 158.

Mid-Cape ★★ Anchor In HYANNIS This

★ Sands of Time Motor Inn & Harbor House WOODS HOLE Across the street from the ferry to Martha’s Vineyard and an easy walk to the village, this inn—part ’50s motel with small pool, part 19thcentury B&B—can satisfy many tastes. 549 Woods Hole Rd. y 800/ 841-0114 or 508/548-6300. www. sandsoftime.com. 35 units. Doubles $160–$225 w/breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Map p 158. ★ Sandy Neck Motel SANDWICH Sitting at the entrance to Sandy Neck, the best beach in these parts, this motel has it made. 669 Rte. 6A.

y 800/564-3992 or 508/362-3992. www.sandyneck.com. 12 units. Doubles $129. MC, V. Map p 158.

★ Spring Hill Motor Lodge SANDWICH This motel boasts amenities like an outdoor heated pool and a night-lit tennis court. 351 Rte. 6A (about 21⁄2 miles [4km] east of town center). y 800/647-2514 or 508/888-1456. Doubles $135–$185. www.springhillmotorlodge.com. 24 units. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Map p 158.

★ Tides Motel FALMOUTH A basic motel with a great location: on a beach at the head of Falmouth Harbor, facing Vineyard Sound. Clinton Ave. (where Grand Ave. hits the beach). y 800/628-3811 or 508/5483126. www.tidesmotelcapecod.com. 29 units. Doubles $165–$175. MC, V. Map p 158.

★★ Woods Hole Inn WOODS HOLE This is the place for people who want to be in the thick of it in

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495-0248. www.woodsholeinn.com. 5 units. Doubles $150–$275 w/breakfast. MC, V. Map p 158.

motel on Hyannis Harbor is well run and with a great location. Rooms are a step above the usual motel and there is a harbor-front pool. 1 South St. y 508/775-0357. www. anchorin.com. 42 units. Doubles $219–$289 w/breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 158.

★★ Ashley Manor Inn BARNSTABLE VILLAGE This pretty historic inn is on a 2-acre property that includes a tennis court. 3660 Rte. 6A. y 888/535-2246 or 508/ 362-8044. www.ashleymanor.net. 6 units. Doubles $175 w/breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 158. ★★ Beechwood Inn BARNSTABLE VILLAGE This Queen Anne Victorian is dripping with antique charm. 2839 Rte. 6A (about 11⁄2 miles [2.4km] east of Rte. 132). y 800/ 609-6618 or 508/362-6618. www. beechwoodinn.com. 6 units. Doubles $185–$210 w/breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 158. ★ Cape Codder Resort & Spa HYANNIS Not very scenic, but there are a lot of amenities for families, including a wave pool with two water slides. It has two restaurants on-site as well. 1225 Iyannough Rd./ Rte. 132. y 888/297-2200 or 508/ 771-3000. www.capecodderresort. com. 260 units. Doubles $159–$198. AE, MC, V. Map p 158.

★★ Captain Farris House BASS RIVER A sumptuous B&B with a peaceful garden just off bustling Rte. 28 and close to the scenic Bass River. 308 Old Main St. y 800/350-9477 or 508/760-2818.

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y 508/398-2633. www.innseason resorts.com. 63 units. Doubles $169– $309. MC, V. Map p 158.

★ Corsair and Cross Rip Resort Motels DENNIS PORT Fresh contemporary decor put these motels above the others along this strip of Nantucket Sound beach. 41 Chase Ave. y 800/3455140 or 508/398-2279. www.corsair crossrip.com. 47 units. Doubles $22– $300. AE, MC, V. Map p 158.

★★ Red Jacket Resort SOUTH YARMOUTH Of the many huge resorts lining Nantucket Sound, this one has the best location, overlooking a private beach and Parker’s River. 1 S. Shore Dr. y 800/ 672-0500 or 508/398-6941. www.red jacketresorts.com. 170 units. Doubles $285–$450. MC, V. Map p 158.

★★ Lamb and Lion Inn BARNSTABLE VILLAGE Part B&B, part motel with pool, this inn is set on a knoll in a charming section of the Old King’s Highway. 2504 Rte. 6A. y 800/909-6923 or 508/362-6823. 10 units. Doubles $189–$275 w/ breakfast. MC, V. Map p 158.

★ Simmons Homestead Inn HYANNIS One of the highlights of this quirky bed-and-breakfast is the museum on-site, Toad Hall, a collection of 50 red sports cars. 288 Scudder Ave. (1⁄2 mile [.8km] south of West End Rotary). y 800/637-1649 or 508/778-4999. www.simmons homesteadinn.com. 14 units. Doubles $180–$240 w/breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 158.

★★ Lighthouse Inn WEST DENNIS This popular resort on a private Nantucket Sound beach and with a historic lighthouse on-site feels like old Cape Cod. 1 Lighthouse Inn Rd. y 508/398-2244. www.lighthouse inn.com. 68 units. Doubles $255– $280 w/breakfast. MC, V. Map p 158. ★★ Long Dell Inn CENTERVILLE This handsome 1850s sea captain’s home has been welcoming guests for 80 years. 436 S. Main St. y 508/ 775-2750. www.longdellinn.com. 7 units. Doubles $155–$180 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 158.

★ Ocean Mist Motor Lodge SOUTH YARMOUTH This large motel on a Nantucket Sound beach has an indoor pool. 97 S. Shore Dr.

Lodging A to Z

www.captainfarris.com. 8 units. Doubles $185–$239 w/breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 158.

Lower Cape ★★★ Captain’s House Inn CHATHAM You’ll find great hospitality at this historic inn plus carriage house and converted barn on 2 meticulously maintained acres that include a pool. 369–377 Old Harbor Rd. (about 1⁄2 mile [.8km] from rotary). y 800/315-0728 or 508/9450127. www.captainshouseinn.com. 16 units. Doubles $260–$475 w/breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 158.

★★★ Chatham Bars Inn CHATHAM This grand historic resort property with inn and cottages is

Sail on up to the Anchor In on Hyannis Harbor.

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set on a private beach separated by a barrier beach from the Atlantic Ocean. Pool, tennis courts, 9-hole golf course, spa, and restaurants are among the amenities. 297 Shore Rd. y 800/527-4884 or 508/9450096. www.chathambarsinn.com. 205 units. Doubles $455–$725. AE, DC, MC, V. Map p 158.

★ Chatham Wayside Inn CHATHAM This former stagecoach stop has been thoroughly modernized, though it’s a bit generic. 512 Main St. y 800/242-8426 or 508/ 945-5550. www.waysideinn.com. 56 units. Doubles $265–$325. DISC, MC, V. Map p 158. ★ The Cove on the Waterfront ORLEANS Fronting the town cove, this motel complex includes a heated pool. 13 S. Orleans Rd./Rte. 28. y 800/343-2233 or 508/2551203. www.thecoveorleans.com. 47 units. Doubles $157–$196. AE, DC, DISC, MC. V. Map p 158. ★★ Little Inn on Pleasant Bay SOUTH ORLEANS On the coast of Pleasant Bay, between Chatham and Orleans centers, this charming inn has a peaceful aura. 654 S. Orleans Rd. y 888/332-3351 or 508/255-0780. www.alittleinnon pleasantbay.com. 9 units. Doubles $245–$315 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 158. ★ Nauset House Inn EAST ORLEANS A half-mile (.8km) from Enjoy the comfy rooms at Barnstable’s Beechwood Inn.

Nauset Beach, this value-priced country inn is a cozy setting for a quiet retreat. 143 Beach Rd. (about 1 mile [1.6km] east of town center). y 800/771-5508 or 508/255-2195. www.nausethouseinn.com. 14 units. Doubles $120–$185 w/breakfast. DISC, MC, V. Map p 158.

★ Nauset Knoll Motor Lodge EAST ORLEANS Overlooking Nauset Beach, this nothing-fancy motel with huge picture windows will suit minimalists to a T. It is owned by the National Park Service. 237 Beach Rd.

y 508/255-2364. www.capecod travel.com/nausetknoll. 12 units. Doubles $175. MC, V. Map p 158.

★★ Ocean Edge Resort & Club BREWSTER This resort has a contemporary country club style with amenities like a private Cape Cod Bay beach, a golf course, 11 tennis courts, 8 pools, and 4 restaurants. 2907 Rte. 6A. y 508/896-9000. www.oceanedge.com. 335 units. Doubles $265–$445. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 158. ★ Old Sea Pines Inn BREWSTER This reasonably priced large historic inn is a great choice for families because of the casual atmosphere. 2553 Rte. 6A. y 508/896-6114. www.oldseapinesinn.com. 24 units. Doubles $110–$165 w/breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Map p 158. ★★ Orleans Inn ORLEANS This historic mansard-roofed beauty on Town Cove includes a family-style restaurant. 3 Old Country Rd./Rte. 6A (just south of the Orleans rotary). y 800/863-3039 or 508/255-2222. www.orleansinn.com. 11 units. Doubles $175–$250 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 158. ★★★ Wequassett Resort & Golf Club HARWICH This 22-acre

resort set on placid and pretty Pleasant Bay has tennis, golf, swimming, sailing, and a fantastic

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167

Lodging A to Z

The Chatham Bars Inn is a seaside resort in the grand old style.

restaurant. 2173 Rte. 28 (5 miles [8km] north of Chatham center). y 800/225-7125 or 508/432-5400. www.wequassett.com. 120 units. Doubles $525–$825. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Map p 158.

★★ Winstead Inn & Beach Resort HARWICH This property

comprises a Nantucket Sound beachfront inn and a second intown property with a saltwater pool. 4 Braddock Lane. y 800/870-4405 or 508/432-4444. www.winsteadinn. com. 21 units. Doubles $325–$525 w/breakfast. MC, V. Map p 158.

Outer Cape ★★ Aerie House & Beach Club PROVINCETOWN With one building set on one of P-town’s tallest hills on Bradford and the other on the harbor beach, this comfortable B&B offers a wide range of rooms for guests. 184 Bradford St. y 800/ 487-1197 or 508/487-1197. www. aeriehouse.com. 11 units. Doubles $220–$320 w/breakfast. MC, V. Map p 161.

★★ Bayshore and Chandler House PROVINCETOWN This beachfront complex in the far east end of town is made up of small apartments. 493 Commercial St. y 508/487-9133. 25 units. Doubles $140–$199. MC, V. Map p 161. ★★★ Brass Key Guesthouse PROVINCETOWN This compound of six buildings around a pool is the place to stay in Provincetown, the most luxurious property and very professionally run. 67 Bradford St. y 800/842-9858 or 508/487-9005. www.brasskey.com. 42 units. Doubles $400–$500 w/breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 161. ★★ Carpe Diem Guesthouse & Spa PROVINCETOWN This topnotch guesthouse has the most deluxe spa in town that includes a Finnish sauna. 12–14 Johnson St. The Brass Key guesthouse offers luxe lodgings in Provincetown.

★★ Anchor Inn Beach House PROVINCETOWN This centrally located waterfront property has very comfortable rooms, many with whirlpool tubs. 175 Commercial St.

y 800/858-2657 or 508/487-0432. www.anchorinnbeachhouse.com. 23 units. Doubles $275–$385 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 161.

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The Land’s End Inn offers spectacular views from high above Provincetown.

y 800/487-0132 or 508/487-4242. www.carpediemguesthouse.com. 18 units. Doubles $225–$245 w/breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 161.

★★ Crowne Pointe Historic Inn and Spa PROVINCETOWN Perched high on Bradford Street, this deluxe lodging option includes a full-service spa. 82 Bradford St. y 877/276-9631 or 508/487-6767. www.crownepointe.com. 35 units. Doubles $299–$529 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 161. ★★ Days Cottages TRURO Stay in one of these famous tiny cottages lined up on a North Truro beach for an old-fashioned Cape vacation. 271 Rte. 6A. y 508/487-1062. www.days cottages.com. 23 units. Doubles $150– $180. No credit cards. Map p 158. ★ Even’tide WELLFLEET Set back from Route 6, this large motel is connected by a wooded path to a National Seashore ocean beach. 650 Rte. 6 (1 mile [.8km] north of Eastham border). y 800/368-0007 or 508/349-3410. www.eventidemotel. com. 40 units. Doubles $155–$180. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 158.

★★ Kalmar Village TRURO Spiffier than many of the motels and cottages along this spit of sand, this 1940s complex has little white cottages with black shutters surrounding a 60-foot (18.3m) pool. 674 Shore Rd. y 508/487-0585. DISC, MC, V. Map p 158.

★★ Land’s End Inn PROVINCETOWN With a prime 1-acre perch

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on Gull Hill at the far west end of town, this whimsical 1907 bungalow with million-dollar views is oneof-a-kind. 22 Commercial St. y 800/ 276-7088 or 508/487-0706. www. landsendinn.com. 16 units. Doubles $305–$420 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 161.

★ The Masthead PROVINCETOWN This is the best-priced waterfront lodging in town. Some rooms are dowdy, others are stylish. 31–41 Commercial St. (far west end of town). y 800/395-5095 or 508/487-0523. www.themasthead. com. 21 units. Doubles $225–$245. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Map p 161. ★★ Surfside Cottages WELLFLEET Just steps from a spectacular beach with 50-foot (15.2m) dunes, these 1950s cottages prove that life’s a beach. Ocean View Dr. (off Lecount Hollow Rd.). y 508/ 349-3959. www.surfsidecottages. com. 18 units. Doubles $1,200– $2,500 weekly. MC, V. Map p 158. ★ Surfside Hotel & Suites PROVINCETOWN With one building overlooking the beach and another across the street, this generic motel has comfortable and updated rooms. 543 Commercial St.

y 508/487-1726. www.surfsideinn. cc. 88 units. Doubles $114–$169. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Map p 161.

★★ Watermark Inn PROVINCETOWN This contemporary beachfront inn on the far east end of town is on the peaceful edge of town.

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and not far from town, this is the island’s premier lodging option and on-site is a pool, spa, and one of the island’s best restaurants.

★★ Whalewalk Inn & Spa EASTHAM A deluxe B&B in the Outer Cape, this beauty is just off the Rail Trail. 220 Bridge Rd. (1⁄4 mile [.4km] west of Orleans rotary). y 800/440-1281 or 508/255-0617. www.whalewalkinn.com. 16 units. Doubles $310–$365 w/breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 158.

46 Jefferson Ave. y 508/228-0618. www.cliffsidebeach.com. 26 units. Doubles $450–$710 w/breakfast. AE. Map p 162.

Nantucket ★ Anchor Inn NANTUCKET This historic sea captain’s home next to the Old North Church has valuepriced rooms. 66 Center St. y 508/ 228-0072.www.anchor-inn.net. 11 units. $195–$229 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 162.

Lodging A to Z

603 Commercial St. y 508/4870165. www.watermark-inn.com. 10 units. Doubles $205–$470. AE, MC, V. Map p 161.

★★★ The Cottages/Woof Cottages NANTUCKET These well appointed small apartments have the best location on the island, on Old South Wharf overlooking the harbor. 24 Old South Wharf. y 866/ 838-9253 or 508/325-1499. www. harborviewcottages.com. 33 units. Doubles $490–$750. AE, MC, V. Map p 162. ★★ Jared Coffin House NANTUCKET This three-story brick manse is a landmark in the center of town. 29 Broad St. y 800/248-2405

★ Beachside at Nantucket NANTUCKET The island’s only motel is outfitted with Provençal prints and has a large heated pool. 30 N. Beach St. y 800/322-4433 or 508/228-2241. www.thebeachside.com. 90 units. Doubles $355–$505 w/breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Map p 162.

or 508/228-2400. www.jaredcoffin house.com. 60 units. Doubles $290–$470. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Map p 162.

★★ Brass Lantern Inn NANTUCKET This reasonably priced historic inn is a great option for people traveling with children and/or pets. 11 N. Water St. y 800/3776609 or 508/228-4064. www.brass lanternnantucket.com. 16 units. Doubles $325–$425 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 162.

61 Centre St. (btw. Broad & Chester sts.). y 508/228-0678. www.martin houseinn.net. 13 units. Doubles $220–$385 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 162.

★ Martin House Inn NANTUCKET One of the lower-priced B&Bs in town, this historic house is kept ship-shape by the capable staff.

Nantucket’s premier lodging can be found at the Cliffiside Beach Club.

★★ Cliff Lodge NANTUCKET The rooms in the 1771 sea captain’s house are cheerfully decorated with colorful quilts and splatter-painted floors. 9 Cliff Rd. y 508/228-9480. www.clifflodgenantucket.com. 12 units. Doubles $195–$320 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 162. ★★★ Cliffside Beach Club NANTUCKET On a beautiful beach

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★★ Union Street Inn NANTUCKET Steps from Main Street, but in a quiet residential section, this B&B is one of the island’s most stylish and best managed. 7 Union St. y 888/517-0707 or 508/2289222. www.unioninn.com. 12 units. Doubles $295–$575 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 162.

Woof Cottages welcome man’s best friend as well as human guests.

★★ Nantucket Whaler Guest House NANTUCKET This 1850 sea

captain’s house has been converted into cute little apartments, each with its own kitchen facilities. 8 N. Water St. y 508/228-6597. www. nantucketwhaler.com. 12 units. Doubles $325–$460. AE, DE, MC, V. Map p 162.

★ Nesbitt Inn NANTUCKET This is one of the last old guesthouses with shared bathrooms on the island. 21 Broad St. y 508/2280156. 15 units. Doubles $170 w/ breakfast. MC, V. Map p 162.

Robert B. Johnson Youth Hostel NANTUCKET An old lifesaving station on Surfside Beach has been converted into an official Hostelling International hostel. 31 Western Ave. y 888/901-2084 or 508/2280433. http://capecod.hiusa.org. 49 beds. $32–$35 members, $35–$38 non-members, $178 private room. MC, V. Map p 162.

★★ The Veranda House NANTUCKET This stylish three-story boutique inn is in a quiet neighborhood a short walk from town. 3 Step Lane. y 877/228-0695 or 508/2280695. www.theverandahouse.com. 18 units. Doubles $309–$449 w/ breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 162. ★★★ The Wauwinet NANTUCKET This ultra-deluxe beachfront resort is Nantucket’s only Relais & Chateaux property, with a fine-dining restaurant on-site. 120 Wauwinet Rd. (8 miles [12.9km] east of town center). y 800/426-8718 or 508/228-0145. www.wauwinet.com. 35 units. Doubles $680–$1,250 w/ breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Map p 162. ★★★ White Elephant NANTUCKET This luxury property facing the harbor is the ultimate in-town lodging. 50 Easton St.

y 800/445-6574 or 508/228-2500. www.whiteelephanthotel.com. 63 Comfort abounds at the plush Charlotte Inn in Edgartown.

★★ Ships Inn NANTUCKET This pretty, historic inn is walking distance to the town’s center and contains a fine-dining dinner restaurant. 13 Fair St. y 888/872-4052 or 508/ 228-0040. www.shipsinnnantucket. com. 12 units. Doubles $275 w/ breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 162.

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Lodging A to Z

units. Doubles $615–$775 w/breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Map p 162.

Martha’s Vineyard ★ Ashley Inn EDGARTOWN This attractive and well-priced B&B in a sea captain’s home is decorated with period antiques. 129 Main St.

y 508/627-9655. www.ashleyinn. net. 10 units. Doubles $255–$285 w/ breakfast. MC, V. Map p 160.

★★ Beach Plum Inn MENEMSHA This 8-acre (3.2-hectare) property tucked away on the far side of the island is walking distance to a historic fishing harbor, a good beach, and a couple of restaurants and shops. 50 Beach Plum Lane (off North Rd., about 8 miles [12.9km] from Vineyard Haven). y 508/6459454. www.beachpluminn.com. 11 units. Doubles $425–$575 w/breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Map p 160.

★★★ Charlotte Inn EDGARTOWN A cluster of five historic buildings just off Main Street decorated to the nines in an English country style make up this top-notch inn, long considered the island’s best. 27 S.

Porch-sitting is still a fine summer occupation at Edgartown’s Hob Knob.

★ Edgartown Inn EDGARTOWN This centrally located inn offers perhaps the best value on the island. 56 N. Water St. y 508/627-4794. www. edgartowninn.com. 20 units. Doubles $170–$275 w/breakfast. No credit cards. Map p 160. ★★ Harbor View Inn & Resort EDGARTOWN This grand 19th-century hotel has a magnificent view of Edgartown lighthouse and harbor. 131 N. Water St. y 800/225-6005 or 508/627-7000. www.harbor-view. com. 124 units. Doubles $369–$625. AE, DC, MC, V. Map p 160.

Summer St. y 508/627-4151. www. relaischateaux.com/charlotte. 25 units. Doubles $395–$695 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 160.

★★ Hob Knob EDGARTOWN This luxury boutique hotel is full of eco-friendly touches. 128 Main St.

★★ Colonial Inn EDGARTOWN This four-story inn in the center of town has rooms decorated in a contemporary style. 38 N. Water St. y 800/627-4701 or 508/627-4711. www.colonialinnmvy.com. 28 units. Doubles $245–$425 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 160.

www.hobknob.com. 17 units. Doubles $420–$545 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 160.

★★ Dockside Inn OAK BLUFFS Set close to the harbor, this inn is perfectly located for families interested in exploring the town on foot. 9 Circuit Ave. Ext. y 800/245-5979 or 508/693-2966. www.vineyardinns. com. 22 units. Doubles $220–$250 w/breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 160.

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y 800/696-2723 or 508/627-9510.

Hostelling International Martha’s Vineyard WEST TISBURY This homey cedar-shake saltbox is set at the edge of a vast state forest. 525 Edgartown-West Tisbury Rd.

y 888/901-2087 or 508/693-2665. 76 beds. $32 members, $35 nonmembers. MC, V. Map p 160.

★★ Isabelle’s Beach House OAK BLUFFS This grand 19thcentury home, across the street from the beach, has small but pretty rooms. 83 Seaview Ave.

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y 800/674-3129 or 508/693-3955. www.isabellesbeachhouse.com. 11 units. Doubles $275 w/breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 160.

★★ Jonathan Munroe House EDGARTOWN With its graceful wraparound and colonnaded front porch, the Jonathan Munroe House, across from the Whaling Church, stands out from the other captain’s homes nearby. 100 Main St.

y 877/468-6763 or 508/939-6004. www.jonathanmunroe.com. 7 units. Doubles $215–$250 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 160.

★★ Mansion House Inn VINEYARD HAVEN One of Vineyard Haven’s most full-service inns, this landmark three-story corner hotel includes a swimming pool in the basem*nt. 9 Main St. y 800/3324112 or 508/693-2200. www.mv mansionhouse.com. 32 units. Doubles $299–$309 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map p 160.

★★ Menemsha Inn and Cottages MENEMSHA This 11-acre

(4.5-hectare) compound has pretty views of the harbor and is accessible to the beach via a 1⁄2-mile (.8km) wooded path. 12 Menemsha Rd. (off North Rd. about 8 miles [12.9km] from Vineyard Haven). y 508/6452521. www.menemshainn.com. 15 units. Doubles $355–$385 w/breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Map p 160.

Surfside Motel OAK BLUFFS A basic motel with a central location, this motel has particularly low prices off season. 7 Oak Bluffs Ave. y 800/ 537-3007 or 508/693-2500. www. mvsurfside.com. 36 units. Doubles $160–$225. MC, V. Map p 160.

★★ Victorian Inn EDGARTOWN Just off Main Street, this inn is bigger than a B&B but with more personalized service than a large hotel. 24 S. Water St. y 508/627-4784. www.thevic.com. 14 units. Doubles $245–$425 w/breakfast. MC, V. Map p 160. ★ Wesley Hotel OAK BLUFFS Formerly one of the grand hotels of the Vineyard, this 1879 property across the street from the harbor is now a solid entry in the “good value” category. 70 Lake Ave. y 800/638-9027 or 508/693-6611. www.wesleyhotel.com. 95 units. Doubles $230–$260. AE, DC, MC, V. Map p 160. ★★★ Winnetu Oceanside Resort KATAMA One of the island’s most attractive full-service resorts, this luxury hotel sits on 11 acres (4.5 hectares) overlooking South Beach, which faces the Atlantic Ocean. 31 Dunes Rd., Edgartown. y 866/335-1133 or 508/310-1733. www.winnetu.com. 48 units. Doubles $320–$1,200. AE, MC, V. Map p 160.

It’s your move at the luxury Winnetu Oceanside Resort on Martha’s Vineyard.

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Before You Go Tourism Offices

y 508/398-3568; www.dennis

Cape Cod Chamber of Commerce 5 Shoot Flying Hill Rd. (Rte. 6 at Rte. 132), Hyannis; y 888/332-2732 or 508/362-3225; www.capecod chamber.org.

chamber.com. Harwich Chamber of Commerce 1 Schoolhouse Rd. (at Rte. 28), Harwichport; y 508/430-1165; www.harwichcc.com.

Nantucket Island Chamber of Commerce 48 Main St., Nantucket; y 508/228-1700; www. nantucketchamber.org.

Brewster Chamber of Commerce 2198 Main St./Rte. 6A (Town Hall), Brewster; y 508/896-3500; www. brewstercapecod.org.

Nantucket Visitors Service & Information Bureau 25 Federal St., Nantucket; y 508/228-0925.

Chatham Chamber of Commerce 2377 Main St., South Chatham; y 508/945-5199; www.chatham info.com.

Martha’s Vineyard Chamber of Commerce Beach Rd., Vineyard Haven; y 800/505-4815 or 508/ 693-0085; www.mvy.com.

Orleans Chamber of Commerce 44 Main St., Orleans; y 508/2551386; www.capecod-orleans.com.

Cape Cod Canal Region Chamber of Commerce 70 Main St., Buzzards Bay; y 508/759-6000; www. capecodcanalchamber.org.

Eastham Chamber of Commerce 4730 State Hwy/Rte. 6, Eastham; y 508/240-7211; www.eastham chamber.com.

Sandwich Chamber of Commerce 4 Water St., Sandwich; y 508/8339755.

Wellfleet Chamber of Commerce off Rte. 6 (at Lecount Hollow Rd.), South Wellfleet; y 508/349-2510; www.wellfleetchamber.com.

Falmouth Chamber of Commerce 20 Academy Lane, Falmouth; y 508/548-8500; www.falmouth chamber.com. Mashpee Chamber of Commerce 520 Main St. (Rte. 130), Mashpee; y 508/477-0792; www.mashpee chamber.com. Hyannis Area Chamber of Commerce 397 Main St., Hyannis; y 508/775-7778; www.hyannis.com. Yarmouth Chamber of Commerce 424 Rte. 28, West Yarmouth; y 508/ 778-1008; www.yarmouthcapecod. com. Dennis Chamber of Commerce 242 Swan River Rd., West Dennis; Previous page: You can travel to Cape Cod and the Islands by boat, surrounded by the Atlantic and its denizens.

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Truro Chamber of Commerce Head of the Meadow Rd. (at Rte. 6), N. Truro; y 508/487-1288; www. trurochamberofcommerce.com. Provincetown Chamber of Commerce 307 Commercial St., Provincetown; y 508/487-3424; www. ptownchamber.com.

The Best Times to Go The Cape and islands traditionally open the high season with a splash on Memorial Day weekend and shutter up come Labor Day. After Memorial Day, things slow down for a few weeks until late June. The weekend closest to July 4th is another major mob scene, when summer really gets rolling. August is by far the most popular month for visiting the region: You are fairly

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With 15 towns to choose from, it can be tough to decide where to stay. Many inns require a 3-night minimum in the summer, so it’s best to stick with one lodging for the duration of your trip. Think of the Cape as divided into four regions: Upper, Mid-, Lower and Outer. Stay in Falmouth in the Upper Cape if you want to take a day trip to Martha’s Vineyard. Stay in Hyannis in the Mid-Cape if you want a day trip to Nantucket. If your focus is on the Cape Cod National Seashore, then you’ll want to choose the Outer Cape. Drive times from Falmouth to Hyannis are about 40 minutes. From Falmouth to Provincetown takes an hour and a half. Peak traffic is on Fridays coming onto the Cape and Sundays going off the Cape.

guaranteed good beach weather in July and August, and the Atlantic Ocean warms to comfortable swimming temperatures. Summer comes to an end with Labor Day, a heavily trafficked weekend you’ll probably want to avoid.

Festivals & Special Events

Shoulder Seasons

MAY

Cape Cod now welcomes more and more tourists to witness the tender blossoms of spring and the fiery foliage of autumn. During these shoulder seasons, lodging tends to cost less, and most restaurants and attractions remain open. Most important, traffic is manageable. Unless your idea of the perfect vacation requires a swim in the ocean; you may be better off with the smaller crowds and better deals of the shoulder months: May, June, September, or October.

Off Season Many towns on the Cape, such as Nantucket, Edgartown on Martha’s Vineyard, Sandwich, Osterville, Falmouth, and Chatham, have big holiday festivals. Tourist-oriented establishments on the Cape and islands traditionally close January through March.

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Before You Go

Where to Base Yourself on Cape Cod

Daffodil Festival, Nantucket. Spring’s arrival is heralded with masses of yellow blooms adorning everything in sight, including a cavalcade of antique cars. Call y 508/ 228-1700. April 23 to 25.

APR.

Figawi Sailboat Race, Hyannis to Nantucket. This is the largest—and wildest—race on the East Coast. Intense partying in Hyannis and on Nantucket surrounds this popular event. Call y 508/2216891, or go to www.figawi.com. Late May. Arts Alive Festival, Falmouth. Dozens of artists and performers, including painters, musicians, dancers, filmmakers, and storytellers, give demonstrations, show films, sell artwork, and put on performances at this weekend-long event that opens with a town dance on the library lawn. Call y 508/548-

JUNE

8500, or visit www.artsfalmouth.org/ artsalive. Mid-June.

Provincetown Portuguese Festival, Provincetown. This cultural event celebrates the town’s Portuguese heritage with music, dancing, food, a parade, and the traditional Blessing

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of the Fleet. Call y 508/487-3424, or visit www.provincetownportuguese festival.com. Late June.

world-famous oysters at this street festival, including arts, crafts, and live music. Call y 508/349-2510, or

JULY Wampanoag Pow Wow, Mashpee. Native American tribes from around the country converge for traditional dances and games.

visit www.wellfleetoysterfest.org.

Call y 508/477-0208, or visit www. mashpeewampanoagtribe.com. July

4th weekend. Independence Day, Falmouth. The fireworks at Falmouth Heights Beach are one of the largest shows in the region. Your best bet is to park in town earlier in the evening and walk over to the Heights. Call y 508/548-8500. July 4th weekend. Pops by the Sea, Hyannis. Celebrity “conductors” along with the famous Boston Pops Orchestra enliven this outdoor concert. Call y 800/4-HYNNIS [449-6647]. Early August. AUG.

Agricultural Society Livestock Show and Fair, Martha’s Vineyard. In West Tisbury, a celebration of the Vineyard’s agricultural tradition. Call

y 508/693-9549, or see www.mvas. vineyard.net/fair.php. Mid-August.

Carnival Week, Provincetown. The LGBT community’s annual blowout features performers, parties, and an outrageous costume parade. Call

y 508/487-2313; www.ptown.org/ carnival.asp. Mid-August.

Illumination Night, Martha’s Vineyard. The Oak Bluffs campground is lit with hundreds of Japanese lanterns. Call y 508/693-0085. Late August.

Always the weekend (beginning on Fri) after Columbus Day. DEC. Christmas Stroll, Nantucket. The island briefly stirs from its winter slumber for one last shopping/ feasting spree, attended by costumed carolers, Santa in a horsedrawn carriage, and a “talking” Christmas tree. It’s the pinnacle of Nantucket Noel, a month of festivities starting in late November. Call y 508/228-1700. Early December.

The Weather The Gulf Stream renders the Cape and islands generally about 10° warmer in winter than the mainland, and offshore winds keep them about 10° cooler in summer (you’ll probably need a sweater most evenings). Typically it’s sunny about 2 days out of 3. Pack some good books for when it pours. Summer The first few weeks of June can be a perfect time to visit but be forewarned: Weather this time of year, particularly on the Outer Cape, can be cold and rainy. The water temperature is quite cold. Late June weather is usually lovely. July and August can be perfect—sunny and breezy—or damp, foggy, and humid. Usually it’s a combination of the two.

3444, or see www.easthamwindmill weekend.com. Early September.

Autumn On Cape Cod, it usually starts feeling like fall a week or two after Labor Day. September and October are splendid. The ocean retains enough heat to make for bearable swimming during the sunny days of Indian summer. Day temperatures are perfect for long hikes along the seashore. By October; you’ll need a sweater during the day, and evenings can be downright chilly.

Wellfleet OysterFest, Wellfleet. Spend a weekend learning about and tasting Wellfleet’s

Winter It’s not supposed to snow on Cape Cod, but it does. January, February, and March tend to be on

SEPT. Windmill Weekend, Eastham. This jolly festival includes a sand-art competition, an arts-and-crafts show, and entertainment. The highlight is the square dance held under the historic windmill. Call y 508/255-

OCT.

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JAN

FEB

MAR

APR

MAY

37

37

44

53

63

72

3

3

7

12

17

22

Low Temp (°F)

20

20

28

37

46

56

(°C)

-7

-7

-2

3

8

13

High Temp (°F) (°C)

JUNE

JULY

AUG

SEPT

OCT

NOV

DEC

High Temp (°F)

78

70

71

62

52

42

(°C)

26

21

22

17

11

6

Low Temp (°F)

62 17

62 17

53 12

43 6

35 2

25 -4

(°C)

the bleak side. This is when a lot of locals head south to sunnier climes. Spring In April daffodil festivals abound. In May and June, the entire Cape blossoms.

Cellphones Verizon seems to have the best cellphone coverage of all the carriers, but you will see numerous cellphone towers and most of the Cape has pretty good cellphone service. Exceptions are Woods Hole and the Outer Cape, particularly Truro and Provincetown.

Getting There

HYANNIS’S AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURES

Note: Massachusetts prohibits texting while driving and cellphone use for teenagers while driving.

Car Rentals Rental cars are available at the Barnstable Municipal Airport in Hyannis and at branch offices of major chains in several towns. The national companies represented on the Cape and islands include Avis (y 800/331-1212), Budget (y 800/527-0700), Hertz (y 800/654-3131), National (y 800/ 227-7368), and Thrifty (y 800/3672277).

Getting There By Plane Most major carriers offer service to Boston’s Logan Airport, and from there it’s a quick half-hour commuter flight on Cape Air to Hyannis or Provincetown or the islands. It’s also easy to shuttle-in from New York’s LaGuardia Airport to Martha’s Vineyard or Nantucket. Cape Air is the only airline currently offering service from Logan Airport to Provincetown. Carriers to the Cape and islands include Cape Air/Nantucket Airlines (y 800/352-0714 or

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508/771-6944; www.flycapeair.com), and Island Airlines (y 800/2487779 or 508/775-6606; www.island air.net). Flying to Nantucket from Hyannis takes about 20 minutes, depending on the weather, and costs about $110 round-trip.

Getting to and from Cape Cod Towns from the Airport Visitors to the Cape and islands who are flying into Boston’s Logan Airport or T.F. Green Airport in Providence, Rhode Island can rent a car

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and drive to Cape Cod in about 11⁄2 hours (from Boston) or an hour (from Providence).

By Car Visitors from the south (New York, for example) will approach the Cape Cod Canal via I-95 to I-195 to Route 25 and over the Bourne Bridge. Those coming from Boston can either come that way (reaching Rte. 25 via I-93 to Rte. 24 and I-495) or head directly south from Boston on I-93 to Route 3, leading over the Sagamore Bridge. The bridges are only 3 miles (4.8km) apart, with connecting roads on both sides of the canal, so either bridge will do. The one you choose will most likely depend on where you’re going. If you’re planning to head south to Falmouth or take a ferry to Martha’s Vineyard; you’ll want to take the Bourne Bridge and follow Route 28 about 10 miles (16.1km) to Falmouth. If you’re heading farther east of the Sagamore Bridge to any of the other 14 towns on the Cape or to Nantucket; you’ll want to travel over the Sagamore Bridge and take Route 6 or its scenic sidekick, Route 6A, which merges with Route 28 in Orleans. From Orleans, the main road is Route 6 all the way to Provincetown. Those traveling to Nantucket should take the Sagamore Bridge and drive down Route 6 until reaching exit 7. From there you can follow signs to one of the two ferry terminals (Steamship Authority or Hy-Line) in Hyannis.

By Bus Greyhound (y 800/231-2222; www.greyhound.com) connects Boston with the rest of the country, and Bonanza Bus Lines/Peter Pan (y 888/751-8800 or 508/548-7588; www.peterpanbus.com) covers a

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good portion of southern New England. Logan Airport to Falmouth costs about $30 each way. Bonanza links Boston’s Logan Airport and South Station with Bourne, Falmouth, and Woods Hole; its buses from New York reach the same destinations, plus Hyannis. From New York to Hyannis or Woods Hole, the 6-hour ride costs about $73 each way. Plymouth & Brockton (y 508/ 746-0378; www.p-b.com) offers service from Logan and South Station to Hyannis by way of Sagamore, and offers connections from there to the towns of Yarmouth, Dennis, Brewster, Orleans, Eastham, Wellfleet, Truro, and Provincetown. From Logan to Hyannis takes about 2 hours on the P&B; to Provincetown it’s about 31⁄2 hours (including the transfer in Hyannis). The fare from Logan to Provincetown on P&B is $63 round-trip, $35 one-way; it’s $52 and $29 roundtrip/one-way from South Station in Boston. To Hyannis, it’s $45 roundtrip from Logan, $25 one-way; $34 from South Street Station roundtrip, and $17 one-way.

By Boat Bay State Cruise Company (y 877/783-3779; www.province townfastferry.com) runs a fast ferry to Provincetown from Boston, in addition to a daily round-trip conventional ferry, both from Commonwealth Pier at Boston’s World Trade Center. The fast ferry makes three trips a day from May to early October. The trip, which takes 90 minutes, costs $49 one-way, $79 round-trip for adults; $32 one-way, $58 round-trip for children; and $44 one-way, $69 round-trip for seniors. The conventional ferry leaves daily late June through Labor Day, and on weekends late May to late June and mid- to late September. The voyage ($44

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Getting to Martha’s Vineyard by Ferry The three “down-island” ports of Martha’s Vineyard are hooked up to the Cape and mainland via various ferry routes. Oak Bluffs has the busiest harbor in season. It’s served by the Hy-Line from Hyannis or Nantucket (y 800/492-8082; www. hy-linecruises.com), the Island Queen from Falmouth Harbor (y 508/548-4800; www.island queen.com), and the state-run Steamship Authority car ferry from Woods Hole (y 508/4778600; www.steamshipauthority. com, where you can buy tickets online). Edgartown is serviced by the Falmouth Ferry Service, a passengers-only ferry called the Pied Piper (y 508/548-9400; www.falmouth ferry.com), which leaves from the west side of Falmouth Harbor and makes a 1-hour crossing. It costs about twice as much ($25 each way for adults, $15 for kids) as the other ferries to the Vineyard. Vineyard Haven welcomes Steamship Authority car and passenger ferries from Woods Hole year-round. If you want to bring your car; you’ll need a reservation (y 508/477-8600; www. steamshipauthority.com). Passengers not planning to bring a car do not need a reservation.

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From Falmouth, the Island Queen makes the quickest crossing, at about 35 minutes. Round-trip fares on all ferry choices to Martha’s Vineyard range from about $15 to $50, depending on the distance, and the round-trip rate for cars in season is $135 to $155. Parking costs $10 to $20 per day, depending on the ferry company. Hy-Line runs a year-round highspeed ferry to Martha’s Vineyard from Hyannis in 55 minutes. In season there are five trips a day, and the round-trip fare is $69 for adults and $48 for children. The traditional ferry makes the trip in season only once per day, takes 1 hour 35 minutes, and costs $43 for adults, $22 for children for round-trip tickets. From New Bedford, MA, the fast ferry MV Seastreak travels to Martha’s Vineyard in 1 hour. It makes six trips a day in season and is in service year-round, 7 days a week. A ticket costs $70 round-trip for adults; $40 round-trip for children 12 and under; and $62 round-trip for seniors. Contact New England Fast Ferry for details (y 866/683-3779 [toll-free]; www.nefastferry.com). From North Kingstown, Rhode Island, to Oak Bluffs on Martha’s Vineyard, the company Vineyard Fast Ferry runs its high-speed catamaran, Millennium, two to three round-trips daily from mid-June through October. The trip takes 90 minutes. Rates are $69 round-trip for adults, $46 round-trip for children 4 to 12. Reservations for the ferry can be made by calling y 401/295-4040 or visiting their website at www. vineyardfastferry.com.

Getting There

round-trip for adults; free for children 4–11) takes about 3 hours each way. Boston Harbor Cruises (y 877/733-9425 or 617/227-4321; www.bostonharborcruises.com) runs fast ferries from Long Wharf in Boston to Provincetown’s Macmillan’s Wharf from late June to midSeptember. It’s a 90-minute trip. In high season there are two to three round-trips a day. Ferry tickets cost $79 round-trip for adults. Tickets for seniors cost $69 round-trip; tickets for children cost $58 round-trip. Bikes cost $6 each way.

Getting to Nantucket by Ferry There are two competing high-speed ferries to Nantucket from Hyannis; both take 1 hour. The passengersonly MV Grey Lady (y 800/4928082), Hy-Line’s high-speed

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catamaran, costs $75 round-trip, $39 one-way for adults; $51 round-trip, $29 one-way for children (y 800/4928082; www.hy-linecruises.com). The Steamship Authority runs its own high-speed catamaran, the Iyanough, which costs $65 roundtrip for adults and $49 round-trip for children (y 508/477-8600; www. steamshipauthority.com).

Both the Steamship Authority and Hy-Line also run slow ferries (21⁄4 hr.) to Nantucket. The Steamship Authority charges $33 round-trip, and Hy-Line charges $43 round-trip. Ferries also travel to Nantucket from Harwich Port by the Freedom Cruise Line (y 508/432-8999; www.nantucketislandferry.com), which costs $70 round-trip for adults, $51 for children.

Getting Around By Car Traveling by car does offer the greatest degree of flexibility, although you’ll probably wish no one else knew that. While traffic can often be frustrating, parking is another problem. In densely packed towns, such as Provincetown, finding a free, legal space is like winning the lottery.

By Bus To discourage congestion and provide a pleasant experience, a growing number of towns offer low-cost in-town shuttles in season. You’ll find such services in Falmouth, Hyannis, Dennis; yarmouth, Martha’s Vineyard, and Nantucket. Each town’s chamber of commerce can fill you in, or call the Cape Cod Regional Transit Authority (y 800/352-7155; www.capecod transit.org).

By Bicycle The bicycle is the perfect conveyance for the Cape and islands, for distances great and small. The Cape has some extremely scenic bike paths, including the glorious Cape Cod Rail Trail (p. 110), which meanders through seven towns for over 25 miles (40.2km). Two wheels are the best way to explore Nantucket’s

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flat terrain, and there are scenic bike routes through all six towns on Martha’s Vineyard. You’ll find a rental shop in just about every town, or better yet, bring your own.

By Moped They’re legal on the islands and can be rented at many bicycle rental shops, but locals loathe them: They’re noisy, polluting, traffic-clogging, and a menace both to their riders and to innocent bystanders. In other words, caveat emptor, and expect some dirty looks.

By Taxi You’ll find taxi stands at most airports and ferry terminals. The islands also offer jitney services with set rates, such as Adam Cab, on Martha’s Vineyard (y 800/2814462 or 508/627-4462), and Chief’s Cab, on Nantucket (y 508/2848497). Several offer bike racks or can arrange for bike transportation with advance notice—call around until you find what you need. Among the larger taxi fleets on the Cape are Falmouth Taxi (y 508/ 548-3100), Hyannis Taxi Service (y 508/775-0400), and Provincetown’s Mercedes Cab (y 508/4873333), which delivers elegance at no extra charge.

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AREA CODES

The telephone area code for the Cape and islands is 508. You must always dial y 1 and the area code, even if you are making a call within the same town.

already included in the posted price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons. Fill-up locations are known as gas or service stations.

Business hours in public and private offices are usually Monday to Friday from 8 or 9am to 5pm. Most stores are open Monday to Saturday from 9:30 or 10am to 5:30 or 6pm; many are also open on Sunday from noon to 5pm or earlier. The exception is Provincetown, where many stores are open until 10 or 11pm. Most every town has some kind of convenience store carrying food, beverages, newspapers, and household basics; the larger communities have supermarkets, which generally stay open as late as 10 or 11pm.

HOLIDAYS

BUSINESS HOURS

The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so remember to bring ID when you go out.

DRINKING LAWS

The United States uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220 to 240 volts to 110 to 120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you if you’re visiting from overseas.

ELECTRICITY

EMERGENCIES

In an emergency, call

y 911. The cost of U.S. gasoline (also known as gas) varies widely. Cape Cod has some of the highest prices in the country, averaging at about $3 per gallon, with the islands of Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket even higher. Taxes are

GASOLINE/PETROL

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Fast Facts

Fast Facts

Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national or state holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents’ Day), the third Monday in April (Patriots’ Day, a state holiday), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans’ Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas).

The Cape Cod Hospital, at 27 Park St., Hyannis (y 508/ 771-1800), offers 24-hour emergency medical service and consultation, as does the Falmouth Hospital, at 100 Ter Heun Dr. (y 508/548-5300). On the islands, contact the Martha’s Vineyard Hospital, on Linton Lane, in Oak Bluffs (y 508/693-0410), or Nantucket Cottage Hospital, at 57 Prospect St. (y 508/825-8100). HOSPITALS

INTERNET ACCESS Most Cape and island towns have at least one cafe that has free Wi-Fi service; check with your innkeeper or the local chamber of commerce to find the closest one. In addition, almost all libraries have free Internet access.

At press time, domestic postage rates were 28¢ for a postcard and 44¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up

MAIL

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to 1 ounce costs 94¢ (72¢ to Canada and Mexico); a first-class postcard costs 94¢ (72¢ to Canada and Mexico). For police emergencies, call y 911.

POLICE

All Cape & Islands towns have gone “smoke-free” to some extent. This means that in the majority of restaurants and bars in these towns; you cannot light up. A few bars have installed a ventilation system and/or a separate area where smoking is allowed, but these are few and far between.

SMOKING

TAXES In Massachusetts, the state sales tax is about 5% (it is slightly higher in some towns). This tax applies to restaurant meals (but not to food bought in stores) and all goods, with the exception of clothing items priced lower than $175. Most of the 15 Cape Cod towns plus the towns on Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket have the same hotel tax, a combination of state and local taxes that totals 9.7%. Several towns have a slightly higher tax of 11.7%.

For local directory assistance (“information”), dial y 411; for long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code and y 555-1212. TELEPHONES

Time Cape Cod and the islands are in the Eastern Standard Time zone. Daylight saving time is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time. Tips are a very important part of many workers’ income, particularly workers in the service industry, and gratuities are the standard way of showing appreciation for services provided. In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage), and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you’ve left a disaster area for him or her to clean up).

TIPPING

Public toilets or “restrooms” can be found in the most touristy areas. Falmouth, Hyannis, Chatham, and Provincetown have public restrooms located on their main streets. Edgartown on the Vineyard has a restroom in its visitor center on Church Street. In addition, many chambers of commerce have restrooms available for visitors. Some gas stations also have public restrooms.

TOILETS

Cape & Islands: A Brief History The Pilgrims Meet Squanto: Arriving in 1620 In November 1620, a gaunt and exhausted band of Pilgrims traveling on a rickety boat called the Mayflower landed on the tip of the Cape in what is now Provincetown. Plymouth was actually their second stop. While in Provincetown they put together a little agreement called the Mayflower Compact, which was the first governing document of

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Plymouth Colony. At the far east end of Commercial Street in Provincetown, a rock marks the spot where the Pilgrims are believed to have landed, and a bas-relief on Bradford Street, behind Town Hall, pays tribute to the Mayflower Compact. The Pilgrims were not the first European explorers to discover the region. Cape Cod was named around 1602 by explorer

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Early Towns on Cape Cod The Pilgrims continued on to Plymouth, but within a few years other settlers from Europe moved to the Cape. The first town to be incorporated, Sandwich, was founded in 1637. Many of the early settlers braved the dangerous cross-Atlantic voyage to escape religious persecution in Europe. They formed various congregations, including Quakers, which are still evident in several Cape Cod towns. The first settlements on the Cape in the early 17th century were

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compact. The idea was that every member of the community was in close proximity to three crucial places: the mill, the market, and the meeting. Most of the Cape was wooded and the early settlers cleared much of the land to raise livestock and used much of the wood to build homes. The first couple of generations of settlers were farmers who were self-sufficient, growing corn and other crops, and raising sheep, pigs, and cattle. Corn was the principle crop, and each town soon had a miller to grind the corn. The early mills were operated either through water power or wind power.

Cape & Islands: A Brief History

Bartholomew Gosnold, after “the great stoare of codfysshes” he saw offshore. He is also said to have named Martha’s Vineyard after his daughter and the large number of grapevines he saw. However, the Cape’s cultural history really begins with the Wampanoag Tribe, a name that translates as “The People of the First Light.” This Native American tribe inhabited the northeast coast and used the area that is now the town of Mashpee on the Upper Cape as one of their bases. The Pilgrims were greeted by members of the Wampanoag Tribe, among them Squanto, who is said to have stayed with the newcomers for the 11⁄2 years that they lived in Plymouth, teaching them the ways of the New World. The Wampanoags were friendly to the Europeans, offering them food during the winter and showing them how to farm crops in the sandy soil. The Pilgrims seem to have repaid them with smallpox and some beaver pelts. Around 1675, relations between the white man and the Indian soured and King Phillip’s War was waged by Chief Metacomet (whom the Pilgrims called King Phillip). The 2-year war resulted in the deaths of about 600 settlers and 3,000 Indians.

From Pirates to Whalers: The Cape’s Rich Maritime History Before the Cape Cod Canal was dug and bridges were constructed in the 1930s, the shipping route around the arm of the Cape carried the reputation as “the graveyard of the Atlantic,” for all the shipwrecks that took place among the treacherous shoals and currents off the Cape. Lighthouses were built—the first one was Highland Light in 1797 at Truro—in order to help captains navigate the tricky coastline that often became enveloped in a dense fog. Whaling was a prominent and lucrative industry from about 1750 to about 1850, when the industry began to wane. Whalers proved to be some of the most successful seafarers in the Cape’s history. In order to make bountiful catches, whalers traveled around the world; when they returned, they brought exotic souvenirs with them. The homes of successful sea captains on the Cape and islands became virtual museums containing treasures from across the globe. Although the fishing industry has suffered in recent years from overfishing, the Cape and islands are still the home of many who make their

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living by harvesting from the sea. In some families, the profession goes back for generations.

The First Tourists: Spiritualists & Scientists The late 19th century brought the beginnings of the tourism industry to the Cape and islands. The first tourists to these shores came for religious retreats. In Oak Bluffs, on Martha’s Vineyard, Methodists would gather in a grove close to the harbor for revivalist camp meetings. The canvas tents they erected for the extended religious revivals were eventually expanded into tiny cottages. Across Vineyard Sound, in the village of Woods Hole in Falmouth, a different kind of summer tourist was discovering the area. Scientists—especially oceanographers— interested in spending their summer vacations surrounded by other scientists were beginning to gather for seminars. Founded as a summer lab in 1888, Marine Biological Laboratory (MBL), y 508/289-7423, www.mbl.edu, today is an international center for biological research, education, and training with about 50 Nobel Laureates associated with it. Woods Hole is also home to the Woods Hole Oceanographic

Institution (WHOI), y 508/2892252, www.whoi.edu, which was founded in 1930 and is dedicated to ocean research, education, and exploration. From around the 1890s to the 1930s, summer cottage communities began to spring up all over the Cape and islands for those who could afford a small second home.

JFK & the Cape Cod National Seashore Cape Cod really became well-known when the second-oldest son of a certain family who had been vacationing on the Cape for decades became president. It was the glamour of seeing John F. Kennedy sailing his boat, the Honeyfitz, off Hyannis Port that gave Cape Cod worldwide panache in the 1960s. JFK also did his part to preserve the Cape. In August 1961, he signed a bill designating 27,000 acres (10,926.5 hectares) from Chatham to Provincetown as a new national park, the Cape Cod National Seashore. Standing on this pristine seashore looking out at the churning Atlantic Ocean, putting all America behind you, to paraphrase Henry David Thoreau, continues to be one of the most cherished experiences for those visiting Cape Cod.

Cape & Islands Art & Architecture Artists began coming to the Outer Cape—Provincetown, Truro, and Wellfleet—in the late 19th century when painter Charles Hawthorne started teaching classes about painting en plein air, with easels set up outside, making use of the famous Cape Cod light, an atmospheric quality local artists prize.

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Hawthorne soon opened the Cape Cod School of Art and later served as one of the founders of the Provincetown Art Association, formed as a gathering spot for local artists. Hawthorne’s protégé, Henry Hensch, continued the school, also stressing the Impressionistic style of using soft colors to paint such images

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Architecture The Cape’s architectural style is best known for its namesake Cape Cod House, a simple, wooden, shingled 11⁄2-story cottage with a central chimney. The first Cape Cod–style homes were built in the 17th century by European settlers. Since then, there have been many adjustments to the classic Cape style over the centuries, but you can

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see early examples of this style, including charming half-capes, along Route 6A, mostly in the village of Yarmouth Port. A great way to see the history of early American architecture is to drive along the old stagecoach route, Route 6A, known as the Old King’s Highway. Here you will see colonial homes of all styles, many of which belonged to wealthy sea captains. Georgian Colonial homes were popular in the 1700s, and tend to be two-story symmetrical homes that often have two chimneys. Also look for Federal-style homes, which have such classical elements as columns at the entryway or a Palladian window above the front door. There are more elaborate homes in the Greek Revival style, which was popular in the mid–19th century; these two-story houses typically have a columned veranda, and other “Greek” architecture elements that mimic temples, such as doorways bounded by carved columns with friezes above. A fine example of Greek Revival is the Dr. Daniel Fisher House, on Main Street in Edgartown, on Martha’s Vineyard. Also look for elaborate homes built in the Second Empire style, with mansard roofs and elaborate carvings. A classic example of this style is the Captain Penniman House in Eastham. Homes built in the Carpenter Gothic style, or “gingerbread” homes, were popular as well; these Victorian homes tend to be painted playfully in bright colors and adorned with elaborate woodwork carvings and cutouts on the roof and the trim. Examples can be found in the Methodist campground in Oak Bluffs on Martha’s Vineyard. On the Outer Cape and particularly within the bounds of the Cape Cod National Seashore, there is a movement afoot to save “modern”

Cape & Islands Art & Architecture

as flowers and streetscapes. In the 1950s, Hans Hofmann, an intimidating artist who had strong ideas about color and abstraction, came to the Cape. Around the time Hofmann came to the Cape, other abstract expressionist stars of the period, such as Franz Kline, Mark Rothko, and Robert Motherwell, also visited the area and acquired summer homes. Today the legacy of Hawthorne, Hensch, and Hofman still lives on in the Cape. Wellfleet’s reputation as an art center is as strong as Provincetown’s, and it has even been called “the art gallery town,” as there are about a dozen interesting galleries along Main Street and Commercial Street. Historic crafts are also abundant on Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket. Nineteenth-century sailors created crafts to pass the time on their long seafaring trips: scrimshaw, elaborate sculptures made of ivory or whale bone; sailor’s valentines, decorative wood boxes containing colorful shells; and Nantucket lightship baskets, handmade reed baskets with mahogany tops and scrimshaw ornamentation, were all popular crafts created by sailors—although sailor’s valentines are now thought to have been purchased on Caribbean islands and brought back to New England. Today some artisans are crafting modern examples of these crafts using the old methods.

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1950s houses from the school of Walter Gropius, one of the leaders of the Bauhaus movement. Think glass boxes, and you’ll have an idea of what these houses look like. Set

low into the landscape and looking as though they are all windows, facing toward the ocean, these houses are, without a doubt, classic Cape houses of an entirely different sort.

Airline, Hotel & Car-Rental Websites Major Domestic/ Budget Airlines

DAYS INN

AIRTRAN AIRWAYS

ECONO LODGE

www.airtran.com

www.econolodge.com

AMERICAN AIRLINES

HOLIDAY INN

www.aa.com

www.holidayinn.com

CAPE AIR

MARRIOTT

www.flycapeair.com

www.marriott.com

CONTINENTAL AIRLINES

QUALITY INN

www.continental.com

www.qualityinn.com

DELTA AIR LINES

RADISSON HOTELS & RESORTS

www.delta.com

www.radisson.com

JETBLUE AIRWAYS

RAMADA WORLDWIDE

www.jetblue.com

www.ramada.com

MIDWEST AIRLINES

SHERATON HOTELS & RESORTS

www.midwestairlines.com

www.starwoodhotels.com/sheraton

NANTUCKET AIRLINES

SUPER 8

www.nantucketairlines.com

www.super8.com

NORTHWEST AIRLINES

TRAVELODGE

www.nwa.com

www.travelodge.com

SOUTHWEST AIRLINES

www.daysinn.com

www.southwest.com

Car Rental Agencies

SPIRIT AIRLINES

ALAMO

www.spiritair.com

www.alamo.com

UNITED AIRLINES

AVIS

www.united.com

www.avis.com

US AIRWAYS

BUDGET

www.usairways.com

www.budget.com

VIRGIN AMERICA

DOLLAR

www.virginamerica.com

www.dollar.com ENTERPRISE

Major Hotel & Motel Chains

www.enterprise.com

BEST WESTERN INTERNATIONAL

HERTZ

www.bestwestern.com

www.hertz.com

CLARION HOTELS

NATIONAL

www.clarionhotel.com

www.nationalcar.com

COMFORT INN

THRIFTY

www.comfortinn.com

www.thrifty.com

COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT

www.marriott.com/courtyard

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See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below.

A Academy of Performing Arts Playhouse (Orleans), 154 Accommodations, 158–172. See also Accommodations Index best, 158–159 African-American Meeting House (Nantucket), 113 Agricultural Society Livestock Show and Fair (Martha’s Vineyard), 176 Air travel, 177–178 The Albacore (fishing boat), 97 Albert Merola Gallery (Provincetown), 61 Alison Shaw Gallery (Oak Bluffs), 71 Althea K Sportfishing Charter, 97 Angel Foods (Provincetown), 62, 84 Antiques, 28–29, 78–79 Antiques Center of Cape Cod (Dennis), 29, 78 Aptucxet Trading Post, 107 Aptucxet Trading Post Museum, 26 Architecture, 30–35, 185–186 Area codes, 181 Art, 184–185 Art galleries, 43–44, 79–80 Oak Bluffs, 71 Provincetown, 61, 64 Wellfleet, 6 Art House (Provincetown), 153 Artists Association of Nantucket, 79 Art lovers, tour for, 42–44 Arts Alive Festival (Falmouth), 175 Arts and entertainment, 148–156 best, 150–151 dance performances, 154 free summer band concerts, 151 Hyannis, 41 spectator sports, 154 theater, 154–156

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B Band concerts, free summer, 151 Bandshell at Marina Park (Falmouth), 153 Barnes & Noble (Hyannis), 80 Barnstable Comedy Club, 154–155 Barnstable Harbor, 105 Barnstable Summer Family Theater, 41 Bars, 141–143 Bartlett’s Farm (Nantucket), 84 Baseball, 116 Cape Cod Baseball League games, 39, 41, 154 Bass Ackwards (fishing boat), 97 Bates, Katharine Lee, 19 statue of (Falmouth), 47 Bay State Cruise Company, 178–179 The Beachcomber (Wellfleet), 143 Beaches, 4, 19, 90–96. See also specific beaches best, 92 parking fees, 93 Beebe Woods (Falmouth), 19 Beech Forest Trail, 99 Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium, 81, 134 Ben & Jerry’s, 134 Berta Walker Gallery (Provincetown), 44, 79 Biking, 4, 180 Cape Cod Canal Bike Trail, 106–108 Cape Cod Rail Trail, 110–111 Nantucket, 112–113 Province Lands Bike Trail (Provincetown), 100 Shining Sea Bikeway, 114–115 Birdwatchers General Store (Orleans), 86 Bird-watching, Monomoy, 59 Bismore Park (Hyannis), 22

The Boat House Restaurant & Lounge (Falmouth), 145 Boat travel and cruises, 178–179 Bonanza Bus Lines/Peter Pan, 178 Books By The Sea (Osterville), 80 Booksmith (Falmouth), 80 Booksmith/Musicsmith (Orleans), 80 Bookstores, 80–81 Borders Bookstore (Hyannis), 80 Boston Harbor Cruises, 179 Boston Pops at Jetties Beach (Nantucket), 152 Bourne Bridge, 107–108 Bournedale Herring Run, 25 Bourne Farm (West Falmouth), 48, 115 British Beer Company (Falmouth Heights), 146 The Brotherhood of Thieves (Nantucket), 69 Bud’s Go-Karts (Harwich), 39 Bumper Boats (Harwich), 39 Bunch of Grapes (Vineyard Haven), 80 Business hours, 181 Bus tours, Martha’s Vineyard, 14 Bus travel, 178, 180 Buzzards Bay, 108, 109, 115

Index

Index

ArtStrand (Provincetown), 61 Aselton Park (Hyannis), 53, 153 The Atlantic House (Provincetown), 144 Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail, 101 Autumn, 176

C Cabot’s Candy Store (Provincetown), 81 Cahoon Hollow Beach (Wellfleet), 93 Canal Electric Plant (Sandwich), 109 Candy, 81–82 Cape Cinema (Dennis), 152 Cape Cod, suggested three-day itinerary, 18 Cape Cod Baseball League, 39, 41, 154 Cape Cod Bay, 108 Cape Cod Beer (Hyannis), 55 Cape Cod Canal, 25 Cape Cod Canal Bike Trail, 106–108 Cape Cod Canal Visitor Center, 107 Cape Cod Children’s Museum (Mashpee), 38 Cape Cod House, 185 Cape Cod Maritime Museum (Hyannis), 53 Cape Cod Melody Tent (Hyannis), 54, 154

12/22/10 2:55 PM

Index

188 Cape Cod Museum of Natural History, Monomoy Island tours, 59 Cape Cod National Seashore, 19, 184 trails, 98–101 Cape Cod Potato Chips (Hyannis), 55 Cape Cod Rail Trail, 110–111 Cape Cod-style houses, 32 Cape Cod Symphony Orchestra (Hyannis), 152 Cape Cod Theatre Project (Falmouth), 155 Cape Maritime Museum (Hyannis), 22 Cape Museum of Natural History (Brewster), 38 Cape Playhouse (Dennis), 155 Cape Rep Theatre (Brewster), 155 Captain Bangs Hallett House Museum, 33 The Captain Kidd Bar (Woods Hole), 141 Captain Penniman House (Eastham), 34 Carnival, Provincetown, 5 Carpenter Gothic style, 185 Car rentals, 177 Car travel, 178, 180 Casino Wharf FX (Falmouth Heights), 145 Castle in the Clouds (Harwich), 39 C.B. Stark Jewelry (Martha’s Vineyard), 87 Cellphones, 177 Center for Coastal Studies, 6 Centre Street (Nantucket), 68 Chapoquoit Beach (West Falmouth), 93, 115 Chatham, 56–59 Chatham Fish Pier, 58 Chatham Lighthouse, 57–58 Chatham Railroad Museum, 59 The Chatham Squire (Chatham), 57, 141 The Chicken Box (Nantucket), 143 The Children’s Shop (Chatham), 82 Chilmark Chocolates (Martha’s Vineyard), 81 Chilmark Pottery (Martha’s Vineyard), 87–88 Chocolate, 81–82

15_9780470874837-bindex.indd 5_9780470874837-bindex.indd 188

Christmas, Nantucket Noel, 68 Christmas Stroll (Nantucket), 176 Christmas Tree Shops, 84 Cinemas, 152 Circuit Avenue (Oak Bluffs), 71 Cisco Brewery (Nantucket), 84 Claire Murray (West Barnstable), 86 Clam shacks, 5, 136 Classical music, 152 Clothing, 82–84 The Club Car (Nantucket), 145–146 Coast Guard Beach (Eastham), 93 Coffee houses, 152 Coffee Obsession Falmouth, 19 Woods Hole, 49 College Light Opera Company (Falmouth), 155 Commercial Street (Provincetown), 40 Compass Rose (Nantucket), 67 Compass Rose Summer Shanty (West Dennis), 145 Conant House (Falmouth), 18, 47 Concert and performance venues, 153 Concerts free, 41, 151 Woods Hole, 154 Coonamessett Farm (East Falmouth), 50 Coop de Ville (Oak Bluffs), 70 Corn Hill Beach (Truro), 93 Corporation Beach (Dennis), 93 Cotuit Center for the Arts, 155 Cotuit High Grounds Country Club (Barnstable), 109 Countryside Antiques (Brewster), 29, 78 Courtyard Restaurant & Pub (Cataumet), 141 The Cove Gallery (Wellfleet), 43, 79 Craigville Beach, 19, 93 Cranberry and Farm Festival (Falmouth), 48 Cranberry bogs, 115 Cranberry Valley Golf Course, 109 The Crown & Anchor (Provincetown), 64, 144

Crystal Pineapple (West Barnstable), 85 Current Vintage (Nantucket), 82

D Daffodil Days (Falmouth), 48 Daffodil Festival (Nantucket), 5, 175 Dance clubs, 143–144 Dance performances, 154 Dane Gallery (Nantucket), 69 Daylight saving time, 182 Dead Neck, 103 Diana Kim England Goldsmiths (Nantucket), 87 Dino’s Sports Bar (Mashpee), 146 DNA Gallery (Provincetown), 44, 79 The Dolphin Fleet/Portuguese Princess (near Provincetown), 6 Dragonfly Gallery (Oak Bluffs), 71 Dr. Daniel Fisher House (Edgartown), 14, 35 Drinking laws, 181 Dudley Hallett Barn, 18

E Eccentricity (Wellfleet), 82 Edgartown Books, 80 Edgartown Lighthouse, 14 Edgartown Scrimshaw Gallery (Martha’s Vineyard), 85 Edgartown Visitor Center, 14 Eight Cousins (Falmouth), 80 Electricity, 181 Embargo, 142 Emergencies, 181 Emily’s Beach Barn (Dennis Village), 83 Etherington Fine Arts (Martha’s Vineyard), 79

F Falmouth, 18–19, 46–51 Falmouth Chamber of Commerce, 48 Falmouth Heights, 50 Falmouth Heights Beach, 19 Falmouth Museums on The Green, 18, 47 Falmouth Public Library, 47 Falmouth Raw Bar, 142 Falmouth Theatre Guild, 155 Families with children, 36–39 Farmers market, Hyannis, 55

12/22/10 2:55 PM

189

G Gallery Ehva (Provincetown), 44, 79 Gardens Heritage Museums and Gardens (Sandwich), 5, 37 Mytoi Gardens (Chappaquiddick Island), 15 Spohr Gardens (Falmouth), 48 Gasoline, 181 Geering Pottery (Falmouth), 88 Georgian Colonial homes, 185 ‘g’ Green Design Center (Mashpee), 86 Giardelli/Antonelli Studio Showroom (Provincetown), 83 Gifts, 85 Gingerbread Cottages & Tabernacle (Oak Bluffs), 71 Gingerbread Cottages of Martha’s Vineyard, 34 Glass, 85–86 Glass Museum, Sandwich, 28–29 The Glass Studio (Sandwich), 85 Golf, 109

15_9780470874837-bindex.indd 5_9780470874837-bindex.indd 189

Gone Chocolate (Osterville), 81 Goodwill Park (Woods Hole), 116 Governor Bradford (Provincetown), 142 Granary Gallery (Martha’s Vineyard), 79–80 Grand Illumination (Martha’s Vineyard), 13 Grand Island, 102–103 Gray’s Beach (Yarmouthport), 94 Great Fire of 1846 (Nantucket), 66 Great Point Lighthouse (Nantucket), 67 Great Put On (Martha’s Vineyard), 83 Great Sippewissett Marsh, 115 Greek Revival style, 185 Grews Pond in Goodwill Park (Falmouth), 40 Greyhound, 178 Gross, Chaim, 62 Grumpy’s Pub (Falmouth), 144

H Hadwen House (Nantucket), 35, 67 Half Cape houses, 32 Hallett Barn’s (Falmouth), 47–48 Hallett House Museum, Captain Bangs, 33 Harbor Your Arts (Hyannis), 41 Harden Studios, 29 Harwich Junior Theatre (West Harwich), 155–156 Hatch’s Fish & Produce (Wellfleet), 84 Hatchville Pottery (East Falmouth), 88 Head of the Meadow Beach (Truro), 94 Heritage Museums and Gardens (Sandwich), 5, 37 Herring Cove Beach, 19, 22, 65, 94 Herring Run, 108 Highfield Hall (Falmouth), 19, 21 Highland Links (North Truro), 109 Hinchman House Natural Science Museum (Nantucket), 68 History, 182–184 tour, 25–27

Holidays, 181 Holt, Norma, 62 Home goods, 86 Hospitals, 181 Hot Chocolate Sparrow (Orleans), 82 Hoxie House (Sandwich), 32 The Hub (Nantucket), 67 Hyannis, 21–22, 52–55 Hyannis Armory, 53 Hyannisport, 54 Hyannis Post Office, 53 Hyannis Public Library, 53 Hyannis Village Green, 22 Hyannis Whale Watcher Cruises, 6 Hyannis Youth & Community Center, 55, 154 Hy-Line Cruise, 27

Index

Farm Neck Golf Club (Oak Bluffs), 109 Farmstands, 50 Fast-food shacks, Nantucket, 11 Federal-style homes, 185 Felix Neck Sanctuary (Martha’s Vineyard), 100 Festivals and special events, 175–176 Field Gallery (Martha’s Vineyard), 79 Figawi Sailboat Race (Hyannis to Nantucket), 175 First Encounter Coffee House (Eastham), 152 Fishing, 97 Flax Pond Beach (Brewster), 94 Flyer’s Boat Rental (Provincetown), 65 Flying Horses Carousel (Oak Bluffs), 5, 13, 71 Food stores and markets, 84–85 Fort Hill Trail, 100 Four Seas Ice Cream (Centerville), 134 Fourth of July, parades, 4–5

I Ice cream, 134 Martha’s Vineyard, 14 Illumination Night (Oak Bluffs), 71 Independence Day (Falmouth), 176 Inexpensive activities, 40–41 Internet access, 181 The Irish Pub (West Harwich), 146 Isaiah Thomas Books & Prints (Cotuit), 80 Island Merchant (Hyannis), 145 Island Transport (Martha’s Vineyard), 14 Iyannough, Statue of, 27

J Jared Coffin House (Nantucket), 69 Jethro Coffin House (Nantucket), 34–35, 113 Jetties Beach, 10–11, 94 Jewelry, 87 Joe’s Beach Road Bar & Grill (Orleans), 145 John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum, 21, 27, 53 Joseph A. Sylvia State Beach (Martha’s Vineyard), 96 The Juice Bar (Nantucket), 134 Jules Besch Stationers (Wellfleet), 85 Julia Wood House (Falmouth), 18, 47 Julie Heller East (Provincetown), 61 Julie Heller Gallery (Provincetown), 64

12/22/10 2:55 PM

Index

190

K Kaleidoscope Toys (Falmouth), 88 Karol Richardson (Wellfleet), 83 Katama Beach (Martha’s Vineyard), 96 Kate Gould Park (Chatham), 153 Kayaking, 102–105 the inlets and estuaries, 6 safety, 103 Kemp Pottery (Orleans), 88 Kennedy compound (Hyannis), 27 Kennedy Memorial (Hyannis), 22, 27 Kindreds Antiques & Folk Art (Osterville), 86 The Knob, 50

L Lamberts Rainbow Fruit (Centerville), 54 The Lampost/Dive Bar (Vineyard Haven), 142 Land Ho! (Orleans), 142 Lecount’s Hollow Road, trail head, 111 Left Bank Gallery (Wellfleet), 43, 80 Liam Maguire’s Irish Pub (Falmouth), 146 Lighthouse Beach (Chatham), 94 Lighthouses Chatham, 57–58 Edgartown, 14 Provincetown, 65 Lil-Bud Antiques, Yarmouth Port, 29 Lodging, 158–172. See also Accommodations Index best, 158–159 Loines Observatory (Nantucket), 68 Long Point Lighthouse (Provincetown), 65 Long Point (Provincetown), 65 Lucinda’s Enamels (Oak Bluffs), 72

M McDermott Glass Studio & Gallery (Sandwich), 86 Macmillan Wharf (Provincetown), 62 Mad Martha’s Ice Cream (Martha’s Vineyard), 14, 134

15_9780470874837-bindex.indd 5_9780470874837-bindex.indd 190

Mail, 181–182 Main Street(s), 4 Chatham, 57 Edgartown, 14 Falmouth, 18 Nantucket, 8, 66 Provincetown, 40 Mandy’s Cape Creamery, 111 Marconi Beach, 94 trail head, 111 Maria Mitchell sites (Nantucket), 67–68 Marine Biological Laboratory Visitors Center (Woods Hole), 20 Marine Biological Laboratory (Woods Hole), 184 Marine Specialties (Provincetown), 86 Market Street Book Shop (Mashpee), 80 Martha’s Vineyard restaurants, 133–136 suggested itinerary, 12–15 traveling to, 179 Martha’s Vineyard Glassworks, 85–86 Martha’s Vineyard Gourmet Café & Bakery (Oak Bluffs), 72 Martha’s Vineyard Museum, 26 Mashpee, 27 Maxwell & Co (Falmouth), 83 The Mews (Brewster), 29, 78 Miacomet Golf Course (Nantucket), 109 Midnight Farm (Martha’s Vineyard), 85 Millway, 105 Millway Beach, 105 Mink Meadows Golf Course (Vineyard Haven), 109 Mitchell, Maria, sites (Nantucket), 67–68 Mitchell House (Nantucket), 68 Mitchell’s Book Corner (Nantucket), 81 Mocha Mott’s (Oak Bluffs), 71 Monomoy Charters (Nantucket), 97 Monomoy Island, 59 seal colony in, 57 Monomoy Island Ferry, 59 Monomoy Theatre (Chatham), 156 Mopeds, 180 Movie houses, 152 Murdick’s Fudge (Martha’s Vineyard), 82

Murray’s Toggery Shop (Nantucket), 83 The Muse (Nantucket), 143 Mytoi Gardens (Chappaquiddick Island), 15

N Nantucket, 8, 66–69, 112–113 best view in, 11 biking, 112–113 restaurants, 131–133 traveling to, 179–180 Nantucket Bookworks, 81 Nantucket Historical Association, walking tours, 11 Nantucket Lightship Basket Museum, 112 Nantucket Looms, 86–87 Nantucket Natural Oils, 69 Nantucket Noel, 68, 176 Nantucket Pharmacy, 9 Nantucket Shipwreck and Lifesaving Museum, 112–113 Nantucket Visitor Service and Information Bureau, 10 Nauset Beach, 19 Nauset Beach (East Orleans), 94–95 Nauset Light Beach (Eastham), 95 Nauset Marsh Trail, 101 Nector’s (Edgartown), 143 Net Result/Larsen’s Fish Market (Martha’s Vineyard), 84 Nightlife, 138–146 bars, 141–143 best, 138–139 dance clubs, 143–144 gay and lesbian, 144 live music, 144–146 Oak Bluffs, 5–6 pubs with music, 146 Nobska Lighthouse (Falmouth), 48–49 Nogiec, Ewa, 62 North Bay, 103 Northern Lights Hammocks (Provincetown), 86 North Shore Charters, 97 Now Voyager (Provincetown), 81

O Oak Bluffs, 70–72 Oak Bluffs Art District, 71 Oak Bluffs Cottage Campground (Martha’s Vineyard), 12

12/22/10 2:55 PM

191

P Pain d’Avignon (Hyannis), 84 Pairpoint Glass Works (Sagamore), 86 Pamet Trail, 99–100 Parking at beaches, 93 Parnassus Book Service (Yarmouthport), 81 Patio (Provincetown), 142 Patriot Party Boats (Falmouth), 97 Payomet Performing Arts Center (North Truro), 156 Peg Noonan Park (Falmouth), 18 Periwinkle Studio (Oak Bluffs), 71 Peterson Farm (Falmouth), 48 Petrol, 181 Petunia’s Shoes (Edgartown), 83 Pie in the Sky Dessert Café and Bake Shop (Woods Hole), 20 Pik Nik Art & Apparel (Oak Bluffs), 71 Pilgrim Monument & Provincetown Museum, 27 Pilgrim Spring Trail, 99 Pirate’s Cove Adventure Golf (South Yarmouth), 38 Plymouth & Brockton, 178

15_9780470874837-bindex.indd 5_9780470874837-bindex.indd 191

Police, 182 Pops by the Sea with the Boston Pops (Hyannis), 152, 176 Post Office Café & Cabaret (Provincetown), 144 Pottery, 87–88 The Provider (sculpture), 58–59 Province Lands Bike Trail (Provincetown), 100 Provincetown, 22, 60–65 Provincetown Art Association & Museum, 44, 61–62 Provincetown Bookshop, 81 Provincetown Museum, 27 Provincetown Portuguese Bakery, 85 Provincetown Portuguese Festival, 175–176 Provincetown Public Library, 62 Provincetown Theater, 156 Provincetown Town Hall, 63 Pubs with music, 146 Pumpkin Day (Falmouth), 48 Puritan Clothing Co., 83–84 Purple Feather Café & Treatery (Provincetown), 82

RoöBar (Falmouth), 142 Ropewalk (Nantucket), 66 Rose & Crown (Nantucket), 142 Rose Dorothea (schooner), half-scale replica of, 62 Ross Coppelman Goldsmith (East Dennis), 87

Index

Oak Bluffs Harbor, 70 Ocean Park (Oak Bluffs), 70 Off-season, 175 Offshore Ale Company (Oak Bluffs), 146 Old Atwood House Museum (Chatham), 33 Old King’s Highway (Route 6A), 6, 20, 27 antiques shopping on, 28–29 architecture styles on, 32 Old Mill (Nantucket), 113 Old Shore Road (Cotuit Bay), 102 Old Silver Beach (North Falmouth), 19, 51, 95 Old Whaling Church (Edgartown), 14, 35 O’Neill, Eugene, 63 O’Shea’s Olde Inne (West Dennis), 146 Osterville, 102–103 Outdoor activities, 90–116 Outer Bar & Grille (Harwich), 142

S

Safety, kayaking, 103 Sagamore Bridge, 108–109 St. Francis Xavier Church (Hyannis), 53 Salt Pond Visitor Center (Eastham), 111 Sand Bar & Grill (Oak Bluffs), 70, 142–143 The Sandbar (West Dennis), 145 Sand Dollar Bar & Grill (Dennisport), 144 Sandwich, 183 Sandwich Antiques Center, 28, 78 Sandwich Glass Museum, 28–29 Sandy Neck Beach (Sandwich), 19, 95–96 kayaking, 104–105 Q Sanford Farms (Nantucket), Quahog Republic Dive Bar 100 (Falmouth), 142 Scargo Pottery (Dennis), 88 Queens Buyway The Schoolhouse Gallery (Falmouth), 18 (Provincetown), 61 Quissett Harbor, 50 ‘Sconset, 10 Scorton Creek, 105 Scusset Beach Breakwater, R 109 Race Point Beach (ProvinceSea captains homes, 32 town), 19, 22, 65, 95 Sea Captains’ Houses Railroad Bridge, 25, 107 (Edgartown), 34 Red Fish, Blue Fish Seal-watching, Monomoy (Hyannis), 85 Island, 57 The Red Inn (ProvinceSeapuit River, 103 town), 64 Seasons, 174–175 Red Mannequin (Oak Shaker Barn (Sandwich), 37 Bluffs), 72 Shakespeare in the Park Regal Cinemas Nickelodeon (Barnstable), 41 (Falmouth), 152 Shining Sea Bikeway, 4, 18, Remembrances of Things 19, 114–115 Past (Provincetown), 87 Shivericks Pond Restaurants, 5, 118–136. (Falmouth), 47 See also Restaurants Shopping, 74–88 Index antiques, 28–29, 78–79 best, 120 art galleries, 43–44, clam shacks, 136 79–80 Martha’s Vineyard, Oak Bluffs, 71 133–136 Provincetown, Nantucket, 131–133 61, 64 Rice/Polak Gallery (ProvinceWellfleet, 6 town), 61 best bets, 74–75 The Ritz Café (Oak Bluffs), 145

12/22/10 2:55 PM

Index

192 Shopping (cont.) Sweet Inspirations bookstores, 80–81 (Nantucket), 69, 82 candy and chocolate, Sydenstricker Glass 81–82 (Brewster), 86 clothing, 82–84 food stores and marT kets, 84–85 Tabernacle (Oak Bluffs), 71 gifts, 85 Takeout and picnic fare home goods, 86–87 Centerville, 54 jewelry, 87 Provincetown, 62 pottery, 87–88 West Falmouth, 115 takeout and picnic fare Taxes, 182 Centerville, 54 Taxis, 180 Provincetown, 62 Tea Dance at the Boatslip West Falmouth, 115 (Provincetown), 144 Shoulder seasons, 175 Telephones, 182 Siasconset Golf Club Theater, 41, 154–156 (Nantucket), 109 Theatre Workshop of NanSlip 14 (Nantucket), 143 tucket, 156 Small Swamp Trail, 99 They Also Faced The Sea Smitty’s Homemade Ice (Provincetown), 62 Cream, 134 Third Fret Coffee House Smoking, 182 (Marstons Mills), 152–153 Soft As A Grape, 84 The Three Bricks South Cape Beach (Nantucket), 67 (Mashpee), 96 Three-quarter Cape South (Katama) Beach (Marhouses, 32 tha’s Vineyard), 96 Time zone, 182 Special events and festivals, Tipping, 182 175–176 Titcomb’s Bookshop Spectator sports, 154 (Sandwich), 81 Spohr Gardens Toilets, 182 (Falmouth), 48 Tommy Doyle’s Irish Pub Sports bars, 146 (Hyannis), 146 Spring, 177 Tony Andrews Farm (East Spyglass Antiques Falmouth), 50 (Brewster), 79 Tourist information, 174 The Squealing Pig Pub & Tourists (statue), 62 Oyster Bar (ProvinceToys, 88 town), 146 Trampoline Center Squid gate (Woods Hole), 49 (Harwich), 39 Stage Stop Candy (Dennis Transportation, 180 Port), 82 Trinity Park Tabernacle (Oak Starbuck, Joseph, 67 Bluffs), 12–13, 153–154 The Steak House & Sport Bar Trunk River Beach, 116 (Hyannis), 146 Truro Vineyards, 44 Stellwagen Bank, 6 The Trustees of ReservaStephen R. Jones (wreck), 108 tions, naturalist-guided Strolling musicians tours (Nantucket), 67 (Hyannis), 41 Twin Acres Ice Cream Summer, 176 Shoppe (Sandwich), 134 Summer’s Lease (fishing Ty One On Sportfishing boat), 97 Charter, 97 Sundae School, 134 Sundancer’s (West Dennis), U 144 Union Chapel (Oak Bluffs), 71 Sundial (Woods Hole), 49 Unitarian Universalist Church Surf Drive Beach, 19 (Provincetown), 63 Susan Baker Memorial Unitarian Universalist MeetMuseum (Truro), 43 ing House of Provincetown, 154

15_9780470874837-bindex.indd 5_9780470874837-bindex.indd 192

V Veterans Beach, 22 Village Green (Falmouth), 18 Vincent House (Edgartown), 14, 35 Vineyard Playhouse (Vineyard Haven), 156 Visitor information, 174 Vixen (Provincetown), 144

W Walking tours, Nantucket, 11 Wampanoag Pow Wow (Mashpee), 176 Wa (Provincetown), 87 Waquoit Bay National Estuarine Reserve, 51 Washburn Island, 51 Waterfront Park (Woods Hole), 49 Weather, 176–177 The Weather Store (Sandwich), 87 Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary, 59 Wellfleet Drive-In Theater, 152 Wellfleet OysterFest, 176 Wesley Hotel (Oak Bluffs), 70 West Barnstable Tables, 87 West Bay, 103 The West End (Provincetown), 64 West Falmouth Harbor, 115 West Falmouth Market, 115 Whalers Wharf (Provincetown), 63–64 Whale-watching, 6 Whaling Museum (Nantucket), 9, 26, 69 W.H.A.T. (Wellfleet Harbor Actors Theater), 156 Whydah museum (Provincetown), 62 The Wicked Oyster (Wellfleet), 143 Windmill Weekend (Eastham), 176 Winslow Crocker House (Yarmouth Port), 33 Winter, 176–177 Wood End Light (Provincetown), 65 The Woodshed (Brewster), 145 Woods Hole, 20, 49, 184 Woods Hole Aquarium, 49 Woods Hole Community Hall, 49 Woods Hole Folk Music Society, 154

12/22/10 2:55 PM

193 Cliff Lodge (Nantucket), 169 Cliffside Beach Club (Nantucket), 169 Colonial Inn (Edgartown), 171 Coonamessett Inn (Falmouth), 163 Corsair and Cross Rip Resort Motels (Dennisport), 165 Y Yardarm, The (Orleans), 143 The Cottages/Woof Cottages (Nantucket), 169 The Yard (Chilmark), 154 The Cove on the Waterfront Yellow Umbrella Books (Orleans), 166 (Chatham), 81 Crowne Pointe Historic Inn and Spa (Provincetown), Z 168 Zero Main (Nantucket), 84 Dan’l Webster Inn & Spa Zion Union Heritage Museum (Sandwich), 163 (Hyannis), 54–55 Days Cottages (Truro), 168 Dockside Inn (Oak Bluffs), Accommodations 171 Aerie House & Beach Club Edgartown Inn, 171 (Provincetown), 167 Even’tide (Wellfleet), 168 Anchor In (Hyannis), 164 Harbor View Inn & Resort Anchor Inn Beach House (Edgartown), 171 (Provincetown), 167 Hob Knob (Edgartown), 171 Anchor Inn (Nantucket), 169 Hostelling International MarAshley Inn (Edgartown), 171 tha’s Vineyard (West TisAshley Manor Inn (Barnstabury), 171 ble Village), 164 Inn on the Sound (Falmouth Baileys By The Sea (Falmouth Heights), 163 Heights), 163 Isabelle’s Beach House (Oak Bayshore and Chandler Bluffs), 171–172 House (Provincetown), Isaiah Jones Homestead Bed 167 & Breakfast (Sandwich), Beach Breeze Inn 163 (Falmouth), 163 Jared Coffin House (NanBeach Plum Inn (Menemsha), tucket), 169 171 Jonathan Munroe House Beachside at Nantucket (Edgartown), 172 (Nantucket), 169 Kalmar Village (Truro), 168 Beechwood Inn (Barnstable Lamb and Lion Inn (BarnstaVillage), 164 ble Village), 165 Belfry Inne & Bistro (SandLand’s End Inn (Provincewich), 163 town), 168 Brass Key Guesthouse Lighthouse Inn (West Den(Provincetown), 167 nis), 165 Brass Lantern Inn Little Inn on Pleasant Bay (Nantucket), 169 (South Orleans), 166 Cape Codder Resort & Spa Long Dell Inn (Centerville), (Hyannis), 164 165 Captain Farris House, Mansion House Inn, 172 164–165 Martin House Inn (NanCaptain’s House Inn tucket), 169 (Chatham), 165 The Masthead (ProvinceCarpe Diem Guesthouse & town), 168 Spa (Provincetown), Menemsha Inn and 167–168 Cottages, 172 Charlotte Inn (Edgartown), Nantucket Whaler Guest 171 House, 170 Chatham Bars Inn, 165–166 Nauset House Inn Chatham Wayside Inn, 166 (East Orleans), 166

15_9780470874837-bindex.indd 5_9780470874837-bindex.indd 193

Nauset Knoll Motor Lodge (East Orleans), 166 Nesbitt Inn (Nantucket), 170 New Seabury Resort (Mashpee), 163–164 Ocean Edge Resort & Club (Brewster), 166 Ocean Mist Motor Lodge (South Yarmouth), 165 Old Sea Pines Inn (Brewster), 166 Orleans Inn, 166 Red Jacket Resort (South Yarmouth), 165 Robert B. Johnson Youth Hostel (Nantucket), 170 Sands of Time Motor Inn & Harbor House (Woods Hole), 164 Sandy Neck Motel (Sandwich), 164 Ships Inn (Nantucket), 170 Simmons Homestead Inn (Hyannis), 165 Spring Hill Motor Lodge (Sandwich), 164 Surf Side Cottages (Wellfleet), 168 Surfside Hotel & Suites (Provincetown), 168 Surfside Motel (Oak Bluffs), 172 Tides Motel (Falmouth), 164 Union Street Inn (Nantucket), 170 The Veranda House (Nantucket), 170 Victorian Inn (Edgartown), 172 Watermark Inn (Provincetown), 168–169 The Wauwinet (Nantucket), 170 Wequasett Resort & Golf Club (Harwich), 166–167 Wesley Hotel (Oak Bluffs), 172 Whalewalk Inn & Spa (Eastham), 169 White Elephant (Nantucket), 170 Winnetu Oceanside Resort (Katama), 172 Winstead Inn & Beach Resort (Harwich), 167 Woods Hole Inn, 164

Index

Woods Hole Oceanographical Institution Exhibit Center, 20 Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI), 184 Woods Hole Science Aquarium, 20

Restaurants Abba (Orleans), 128 Alberto’s Ristorante (Hyannis), 126 Alchemy (Edgartown), 133

12/22/10 2:55 PM

Index

194 American Seasons (Nantucket), 131 Aqua Grille (Sandwich), 125 Arnold’s Lobster & Clam Bar (Eastham), 136 Arno’s (Nantucket), 131 Art Cliff Diner (Vineyard Haven), 135 Atria (Edgartown), 135 Barnstable Restaurant & Tavern, 21 Barolo Italian Steakhouse (Hyannis), 126–127 Baxter’s Boat House (Hyannis), 127 The Bean (Nantucket), 69 Bee-Hive Tavern (Sandwich), 125 Black Cat Tavern (Hyannis), 127 Black Dog Tavern, 15 Black-eyed Susan’s (Nantucket), 131 Bleu (Mashpee), 125 Box Lunch, 129 The Bramble Inn & Restaurant (Brewster), 128 Brewster Fish House, 128 Brotherhood of Thieves (Nantucket), 131 Buca’s Tuscan Roadhouse (Harwich), 128 Café Edwidge (Provincetown), 130 Cafe Mews (Provincetown), 44 Caffé e Dolci, 27 The Cap’n Kidd Bar (Woods Hole), 116 Captain Frosty’s (Dennis), 136 Centre Street Bistro (Nantucket), 131 Chach (Provincetown), 129 The Chanticleer (Nantucket), 131 The Chart Room (Cataumet), 125 Chatham Bars Inn, 58 The Chatham Squire (Chatham), 57, 129 Chillingsworth (Brewster), 129 Cinco Restaurant & Bar (Nantucket), 132 The Clam Shack (Falmouth), 136

15_9780470874837-bindex.indd 5_9780470874837-bindex.indd 194

The Club Car (Nantucket), 132 Cobie’s, 136 Coffee Obsession (Falmouth), 19 Coffee Obsession (Woods Hole), 49 Common Ground Café (Hyannis), 53 Company of the Cauldron (Nantucket), 132 Coonamessett Farm (East Falmouth), 50 Corazon Del Mar (Nantucket), 132 Daily Brew Coffee Bar & Café (Cataumet), 26 Détente (Edgartown), 135 Devon’s (Provincetown), 130 Eclectic Café (Hyannis), 127 Espresso Love (Edgartown), 135 The Flying Bridge (Falmouth), 125 The Galley (Nantucket), 132 The Glass Onion (Falmouth), 125 Home Port (Menemsha), 135 Inaho (Yarmouthport), 127–128 La Cucina Sul Mare (Falmouth), 125 Landfall Restaurant (Woods Hole), 125 Land Ho! (Orleans), 129 Le Grenier (Vineyard Haven), 135 Le Languedoc Bistro (Nantucket), 133 L’etoile (Edgartown), 135 Lorraine’s (Provincetown), 130 Mac’s Shack (Wellfleet), 136 Marathon Seafood (West Dennis), 136 Martha’s Vineyard Gourmet Café & Bakery (Oak Bluffs), 72 The Mews Restaurant & Café (Provincetown), 130 Mezza (Falmouth), 126 Moby Dick’s Restaurant (Wellfleet), 136 Mocha Mott’s (Oak Bluffs), 71 Moonakis Café (Waquoit), 125–126

The Naked Oyster Bistro & Raw Bar (Hyannis), 127 Napi’s (Provincetown), 130 The Newes From America (Edgartown), 135 Norabella (West Dennis), 127 Ocean House (Dennisport), 127 Optimist Café (Yarmouth Port), 32 Oran Mor Bistro (Nantucket), 133 Osteria La Civetta (Falmouth), 126 Oyster Bar Grill (Oak Bluffs), 136 The Paddock (Hyannis), 128 Patio (Provincetown), 22 Peking Palace (Falmouth), 126 Phusion Grille (Woods Hole), 126 Pie in the Sky Dessert Café and Bake Shop, 20 The Red Inn (Provincetown), 130 Red Nun Bar & Grill (Chatham), 129 Regatta of Cotuit, 128 Roadhouse Café (Hyannis), 128 RoöBar (Falmouth), 126 Ross’ Grill (Provincetown), 130 Seafood Sam’s (Harwich Port), 38 Sharky’s Cantina (Oak Bluffs), 136 Straight Wharf Restaurant (Nantucket), 133 Sushi by Yoshi (Nantucket), 133 Sweet Life (Oak Bluffs), 136 Topper’s at the Wauwinet (Nantucket), 133 twenty-eight Atlantic (Harwich), 129 Victor’s (Provincetown), 131 Villa Roma (Harwich), 129 Wicked Fire Kissed Pizza (Mashpee), 126 Wicked Oyster (Wellfleet), 131 Winslow Tavern (Wellfleet), 131

12/22/10 2:55 PM

195

p i, left: © Michael Neelon (tourism) / Alamy Images; p i, center: © Paul Williams / Bon Appetit / Alamy Images; p i, right: © Michael Neelon / Alamy Images; p ii, top: © Vince DeWitt; p ii, second from top: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p ii, third from top: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p ii, fourth from top: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p ii, bottom: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p iii, top: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p iii, second from top: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p iii, third from top: © Courtesy Falmouth Theatre Guild, photo by Katy Paul; p iii, fourth from top: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p iii, bottom: © Vince DeWitt; p 1: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 4: © Michael Eudenbach / Aurora; p 5: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 6: © Courtesy of Nantucket Chamber of Commerce; p 7: © Vince DeWitt; p 9, top: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 9, bottom left: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 10: © Steve Dunwell / AGE Fotostock; p 11: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 13, bottom: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 13, top right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 14: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 15: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 18: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 19: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 20, top: © Michael Eudenbach / Aurora; p 20, bottom right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 21: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 22: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 23: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 25: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 26: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 29: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 32: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 33: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 34, bottom left: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 34, top right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 35, bottom left: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 35, top right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 39, top right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 39, bottom: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 41, top left: © Vince DeWitt; p 41, bottom: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 43: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 44: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 45: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 47: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 48: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 49: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 50: © Michael Eudenbach / Aurora; p 51: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 53: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 54: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 55: © Courtesy Arts Foundation of Cape Cod, Photos by Studio by the Sea; p 57: © Vince DeWitt; p 58, top left: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 58, bottom: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 59: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 62: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 63: © Michael Eudenbach / Aurora; p 64, top: © Vince DeWitt; p 64, bottom left: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 65: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 67: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 68, top: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 68, bottom right: © Nantucket Island Chamber of Commerce; p 69, bottom left: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 69, top right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 71: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 72, top left: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 72, bottom: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 73: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 75: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 78: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 79, top: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 79, bottom right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 80, top right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 80, bottom left: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 81: © Vince DeWitt; p 82, top left: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 82, bottom: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 83, top right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 83, bottom: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 84: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 85, top: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 85, bottom right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 86: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 87: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 88, top: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 88, bottom right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 89: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 92, top left: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 92, bottom: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 95: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 96, top left: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 96, bottom: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 97: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 99: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 101, top right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 101, bottom: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 102: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 103: © Vince DeWitt; p 105: © Vince DeWitt; p 107: © Michael Neelon / Alamy Images; p 108: © Nativestock Pictures / Photolibrary; p 110: © Bob Downing / Akron Beacon Journal / MCT / Newscom; p 111: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 113, bottom: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 113, top right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 115: © Vince DeWitt; p 116: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 117: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 120: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 125: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 126: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 127, top left: © Vince DeWitt; p 127, bottom right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 128: © Vince DeWitt; p 129, bottom left: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 129, top right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 130, top left: © Vince DeWitt; p 130, bottom right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 131: © Vince DeWitt; p 132, top: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 132, bottom left: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 133: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 134: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 135: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 136: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 137: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 141: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 142: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 143, top: © Vince DeWitt; p 143, bottom right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 144: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 145: © Vince DeWitt; p 146: © Vince DeWitt; p 147: © Courtesy Falmouth Theatre Guild, photo by Katy Paul; p 151: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 152: © Courtesy Arts Foundation of Cape Cod, Photos by Studio by the Sea; p 153, top: © Courtesy Cape Cod Symphony Orchestra; p 153, bottom right: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 154: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 155: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 156: © Courtesy W.H.A.T., photo by Jeff Zinn; p 157: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 159:

15_9780470874837-bindex.indd 5_9780470874837-bindex.indd 195

Photo Credits

Photo Credits

12/22/10 2:55 PM

Photo Credits

196 © Vince DeWitt; p 163: © Courtesy Coonamessett Inn; p 165: © Courtesy Anchor In; p 166: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 167, top: © Matt Teuten / Aurora; p 167, bottom right: © Courtesy Brass Key Inn; p 168: © Courtesy Lands End Inn; p 169: © Courtesy Cliffside Beach Club; p 170, top left: © Courtesy The Cottages; p 170, bottom right: © Courtesy Charlotte Inn, Photo by Nina Bramhall; p 171: © Courtesy Hob Knob; p 172: © Courtesy Winnetu Oceanside Resort; p 173: © Vince DeWitt

15_9780470874837-bindex.indd 5_9780470874837-bindex.indd 196

12/22/10 2:55 PM

Fold

Marshfield

Provincetown Arpt.

nsto Bo

Brant Rock

MARSHFIELD

Green Harbor

n (Ju wn

3

South Duxbury

Pilgrim L.

6A Provincetown Har. Long Pt.

-O ct )

5 mi

Provincetown

to ce

Millbrook Duxbury Silver L.

Race Pt.

in ov Pr

3A DUXBURY

PROVINCETOWN

5 km

A T L A N T I C Truro

O C E A N

Guret Pt.

TRURO Plymouth - Provincetown (Jun-Sep)

Plymouth Harbor

QUEBEC CAPE COD NATIONAL SEASHORE

6

North Plymouth Plymouth

Wellfleet

White Horse Beach

Billington Sea

Manomet

C A P E

C O D

Wellfleet Harbor Lieutenant I.

B AY

3A M

O

U

T

H

Halfway Pd.

Ellisville

3

White Island Pd.

Sagamore

S

A

N

B O U R N E Forestdale Wings Neck

D

B AY

North Falmouth 28A

Mashpee Ashumet Pd.

West Falmouth

Santuit

Osterville

Cotuit

Hyannis Port

South Dennis West Dennis

28

Popponesset New Seabury

-O

East Harwich

H A R W I C H

Harwich Harwich Port

39

PENNSYLVANIA South Orleans Pl e

28

as a n

Chatham Port

C H A T H A M

West Chatham

N A N T U C K E T S O U N D

N.J.

MD. Washington 480mi / 770km

Boston 70mi / 110km

HYANNIS

Richmond 580mi / 930km

32˚F

0˚F

-20˚F

A T L A N T I C

1 liter = .26 U.S. gallon 1 U.S. gallon = 3.8 liters

10˚C To convert ..................... multiply by

0˚C -10˚C -18˚C

APPROXIMATE DRIVING DISTANCES TO HYANNIS

inches to centimeters................... 2.54 centimeters to inches..................... .39 feet to meters................................ .30 meters to feet...............................3.28 yards to meters.............................. .91 meters to yards.............................1.09 miles to kilometers.......................1.61 kilometers to miles........................ .62 1 ft. = .30m 1 mile = 1.6km 1m = 3.3 ft. 1km = .62 mile

-30˚C

To convert F to C: subtract 32 and multiply by 5/9 (.555) To convert C to F: multiply by 1.8 and add 32

32˚F = 0˚C

NORTH CAROLINA

Monomoy Pt.

CAPE COD

20˚C

-10˚F

Raleigh 750mi / 1210km National Wildlife Refuge

50˚F

10˚F

O C E A N

Monomoy I. Monomoy

70˚F

30˚C

20˚F

New York 260mi / 420km

DEL. VIRGINIA

80˚F

40˚C

40˚F

Baltimore 440mi / 710km

Chatham

100˚F

To convert..................... multiply by U.S. gallons to liters....................... 3.8 Liters to U.S. gallons...................... .26 U.S. gallons to imperial gallons.... .83 Imperial gallons to U.S. gallons...1.20 Imperial gallons to liters..............4.55 Liters to imperial gallons............... .22

60˚F

Philadelphia 350mi / 560km

t Ba y

Dennis Port

Pt. Gammon

d)

Falmouth Edgartown (May-Oct)

West Yarmouth Hyannis

124 6

South Mashpee

Hy an nis

Nobska Pt.

132

un r-ro (yea ket ntuc - Na

Woods Hole Woods Hole Vineyard Haven (year-round)

Centerville

nnis Hya

Waquoit Bay South Cape Beach S.P.

Falmouth

Wequaquet L.

Y A R M O U T H South Barnstable Mun. Arpt. Yarmouth

Long Pd.

Mill Pd.

Yarmouth DENNIS Port Yarmouth 134

Barnstable

Nickerson S.P.

28

Waquoit East Falmouth

Great Pd.

B a r n s t ab l e

B A R N S T A B L E

North Bay

Johns Pd. MASHPEE

F A L M O U T H

Teaticket Sippewissett

151

West Barnstable

H

Marstons Mills

OTIS A.N.G.B.

Coonamessett Pd.

C

Mystic L. Wakeby Pd.

130

Cataumet

Scraggy Neck

I

Lawrence Pd.

Pocasset 28

W

6A

r Ha

CONN. R.I.

ORLEANS Cliff Pd.

South B R E W S T E R Brewster Upper

N.H. Albany 230mi / 370km

Hartford 160mi / 260km

(May-Oct)

Monument Beach

Sandy Neck

6A

East Dennis

- Nantucket

6 CAMP EDWARDS

Dennis .

e

East Sandwich

Harwich Port

al

Sandwich

C

Bourne

NEW YORK

Orleans

Brewster

an C ap

d Co

Syracuse 370mi / 600km

110˚F

90˚F Portland 180mi / 290km

MASS.

East Brewster

Scusset Beach S.P.

W A R E H A M

Wareham Buzzards Bay Onset

VT.

Rock Harbor Great Herring Pd.

25

Toronto 610mi / 980km

Eastham

Cedarville

Burlington 290mi / 470km

Buffalo 520mi / 840km

EASTHAM

ak Blu ffs (M ay -O ct)

White Island Shores

BU ZZA RDS

North Eastham

Vallerville

Long Pd.

Myles Standish State Forest

MAINE

ONTARIO

Jeremy Pt.

Y

Montréal 380mi / 610km

Ottawa 500mi / 800km

Great South Pd.

L

N.B.

Quebec City 470mi / 760km

WELLFLEET

44

P

Fold

To convert..................... multiply by Ounces to grams........................ 28.35 Grams to ounces.......................... .035 Pounds to kilograms.......................45 Kilograms to pounds................... 2.20 1 ounce = 28 grams 1 pound = .4555 kilogram 1 gram = .04 ounce 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds

Fold

Barnes Rd .

Old Cou nty Rd.

i V

Mid

Nor th R d.

West Tisbury

. Rd dle

Ed g art o wn R d.

D

G

A

R

South Rd.

Menemsha Pd.

Ed ga rto wn Gre at P d.

Gr ea tP d.

Chilmark

Aquinnah

AQUINNAH

d.

4 mi

4

Cur rier Rd.

s ta ble Rd .

with foldout map

H N.C.F.

Coatue Pt.

Tuckernuck I.

N.C.F.

Madaket Harbor

Madaket

. Madaket Rd Long Pd. Hummock Pd. N.C.F.

Nantucket Town

R

Eel Pt.

nd

d.

Waquoit Bay

ISBN 978-0-470-08119-8

nd

Isla

Central Av e.

Old

Rd.

Acapeske t

G r e a t P o nd

r. Davis St

SOUND

Davisvi lle Rd.

Sa nd wi ch

Rd .

Giffor d St.

Shore St.

se tt A ve.

5

S O U N D

11

28

Wa shb urn

Rd

Qu ak er

N Falmou th H w

Sippewi sset

6

NANTUCKET

N A N T U C K E T

Muskeget I.

WAQUOIT WAQ

o kP oc mm Hu Miacomet Cisco Pd.

d.

N

a

n

t

u

c

k

e

r Wauwinet N.C.F.

Quidnet Sesachacha Pd.

d. pl is R Po

l pi sR d.

NANTUCKET CONSERVATION FOUNDATION

Siasconset Rd . Nantucket Mem. Arpt.

Surfside

o

Polpis

Mileston e Rd.

ou th

b

t

N A N T U C K E T Ol d S

a

r

N.C.F.

r ve Ne

Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution

WOODS HOLE

Ave. nd Gra

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.

is Qu

3

r. Oyster Pd. Surf D

8

Men auhan tR

cke t (Ju

Po

7

Main St.

. wy uoit H aq

NANTUCKET

Great Pt.

m To

Quissett Har.

1

E Falmout h Hwy.

W

ant u

MARTHA’S VINEYARD

d S u rf s i d e R

. Rd ods Hole Wo

EAST FALMOUTH

n Ba r

Oak Bluf fs - N

Katama Bay

y-Oct) ket (Ma Nantuc

2

FALMOUTH

Parker Rd.

Beebe Woods

10

TEATICKET

Goodwill Park

Ave. Maravista

28

Kiln Rd.

Squibnocket Pt.

Quashnet Woods

Carr iage Sho p Rd.

qu id

h Port -

Jenkins Pd.

Bri ck

lis Hwy. Nathan El

pp a

N

Katama Katama

Harwic

28A

with foldout map

Rd .

F A L M O U T H

WEST FALMOUTH

151

F.A. Crane W.M.A.

d) un -ro ar (ye et ck tu an -N

28

Coonamessett Coona C Coonames Coon oon o ames a essett ett tt Pd. Pd d

9

same scale for both maps nis an Hy

y.

Johns Pd . Pd Pd.

HATCHVILLE HAT HA ATCHVILLE CHV CHVILL HV L

Ch a

W

4 km

Squibnocket Pd. Crooked Croo ro ked k d Pd. P d. Pd Thom as L anders

O

Rd.

R South

T

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E

n -S ep )

Edgartown

. Edgartown-W T isbury Rd

Oyster Pd.

S O U N D

C. Poge

EdgartownOak Bluffs Rd.

Martha’s Vineyard Arpt.

WEST TISBURY

N A N T U C K E T

Sengekontacket Pd.

Ocean Heights

MANUEL F. CORRELLUS STATE FOREST

ak

eek R d.

d r a

y e

n

OAK BLUFFS

g Cr

o h us

Na

North Tisbury

-O

O ak Bluf fs - Na nt u cke t ( Ju

Oak Bluffs

Lagoon Heights

Lagoon Pd.

d. te R Sta

n is

East Chop H yan

C H I L M A R K

d. tR

UK £9.99

Haven

Menemsha

Find news, deals, apps, and expert advice, plus connect with other travelers at

CAN $16.99

L. Tashmoo Vineyard

Vineyard Haven Har. d. hR c a Be

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Bay Poge C.

21 Smart Ways to See the Region

Long Pd.

US $13.99

S

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BY

Locustfield Rd.

wallet you can also use for tickets and souvenirs

o

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d

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Cape Cod, Nantucket & Martha’s Vineyard

n

nd

Herr in

I

B A Y

a sl

Cou nty R d.

B U Z Z A R D S

Tis bu ry

Fold

sR d.